allanp

I did the same thing with the recievers because the steering motor wire was not long enough.

Haha yeah, I blame my keyboard!

I wonder if Cuusoo has the power to create new parts. If so the gearbox could be simplified dramaticly and easier/more intuative to build as well as being 100% reliable right from the start even when built by a child. As it is it is pushing the limits of technic and ideal for experienced builders, not so much for TLGs target audience.

Thankyou very much.

I wouldn't know, I already had all the parts.

There are other links, the suspention springs are not relied upon to hold the axles in place. It's not that much different without the body, the chassis/drive train contains most of the weight.

As well as in this video.

For the price, the instructions are well worth it. Alot of work has gone into them and they make for a great building experience.

LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110 REVIEW Designed by Fernando Benavides (Sheepo) Built using instructions by Fernado Benavides and Jurgen Krooshoop available at http://www.sheepo.es...structions.html This is not a kit (obviously) so the build starts with finding all the parts. The parts list at rebrickable turned out to be accurate, although the sheer amount of parts does not become apparent until you gather them all together. As was pointed out to me, Rebrickable does not distinguish between old and new grey, so unfortunately there is a bit of a mix here, but i've tried to keep that to a minimum. There are many a gear to behold. 88 plus a gear rack. Once it's certain all the parts are there (actually I didn't have all of them but i'll get to that later!) next thing to do is to download the instructions. Once ordered the download link arrived almost immediately. I was stunned at the size of them, 448 pages in all! The first few pages include some nice renders by Blakbird. So now to dive into the build. The very first step, the differencial and housing. You will notice the CV parts here, the reason for this is because the steering axis is not inline with the universal joint which drives the wheel.... So when steered it should bind up however, by allowing the drive shaft to angle and also extend, the CV joint accounts for it nicely. Here are the brakes now built. This area was a tricky part to build and starts out flimsy and hard to stop things falling apart, but once built it's very sturdy and works very well. I was not missing many parts at all but one of the parts I was short of was the part on the left, that one being my only copy, so I replaced them with the part on the right. 5 are used in total, 4 in the braking system. It makes no change to the functionality or reliability as far as I can tell, but at this point i'm hoping that it's one stud increase in size will not cause it to hit anything. You may notice that i'm not fully explaining how everything works. This is for two reasons, firstly I think the pictures mostly speak for themselves but secondly because I want to leave you with more incentive to buy the instructions, not less Speaking of instructions, how do you suppose I fit this cross block onto there as per the instructions? I know, I'll just bend it. No problems! The front axle is now complete, with trailing arms, working brakes, steering with drop link and drive. This part alone is almost the size of 9393. The steering has ackerman geometry, meaning the inside wheel turns more than the outside wheel to keep them more inline with their respective directions of travel. This is important for such a heavy (very heavy) motorised model as any friction from the tyres would slow it down alot. Rear axle now complete, also with the substituted parts and this time, with the stiff Unimog coil springs mounted. It needs those for sure as just placing it down causes the springs to compress quite significantly, tho it's not as bad as 8466. The Unimog springs are just enough. Chassis is now built, and what a fine looking chassis it is, lots of beamy goodness to make it just about as stiff as you could reasonably expect from such a huge and heavy studless model. Is this an illegal technique I see?! Don't worry, this is a fairly rear occurance in this model. Overall the model is built very soundly and professionally,whilst the build has been more tricky than the average technic set the instructions have been very easy to understand. All 7 motors are mounted to the chassis. The first to go on is the steering motor. From left to right, the 2wd/4wd select motor, the motor for the brakes and the high,low range motor. The XL motor used for changing gears. It is geared up 3:1 which gives it enough travel whilst allowing the blue drive belts to help return the mechanism to center. Now we have the two XL drive motors, also the working steering wheel and front suspention springs. The chassis is now complete with many gears, linkages and mechanisms as part of the gear change built in. Already feeling very impressed, now comes the part i've been waiting for the most, the gear box! It starts with the core set of 5f +1r gears using a gear configuration that i've used for many years because I know it to be very strong and gives good ratios Next the transfer gearbox, with high/low range and selection between 2 or 4 wheel drive. There is no middle differencial. Next is the inline 4 engine. You can also see the auto clutch just beside it. I've changed the fan for a yellow one to make it "pop". The completed engine and gearbox is a nicely engineered bit of kit and able to handle alot of torque. The gear change linkages can also be seen although it's a little too dark to properly see the rockers. And now, like in a real Land Rover, it's time to mount the complete axles, engine and gearbox to the chassis. The transmission is a very tight sqeeze, bit it fits in there like a glove. The gear change mechanism is in two halfs, the first half being part of the chassis and the second being part of the gearbox. They fit together and line up nicely to create one cohesive mechansim. But now the problem of swapping out parts in the braking system returns. The increased size means the rear mechanism hits the chassis when the suspention is compressed (I must reiterate that this was my fault for not using the right parts!) But no biggie, just have to swap the 10 long axle... With a 9 long axle (or in this case a 4 and a 5). Problem solved! So, with that sorted, time to test the gearbox. Did it work perfectly 100%, reliably first time? Um, not quite, but it was close. After some messing about (which i'll show you) it now does work just as well as in Sheepo's video and it's freakin awesome! So, what was the trouble you ask? The gears were not engauging fully, sometimes they would work fine, sometimes they would half work and pop out of drive when under load and sometimes they would not engauge at all. After a bit of trouble shooting I decided that the gear change linkages were not moving freely enough. Take a look at the picture below. The drive rings are mounted on the smooth axle connectors (the ones without the ridges) to allow the drive rings to move easier. However whilst side A and it's opposite side have a flat side, side B and it's opposite side has a higher, rounded side. After removing them I found that the clips on the drive rings were all on the higher side, causing too much friction. Moving them to the flat sides made a big improvement. Not it's not quite 100% reliable just yet. The next picture shows the slider which moves back and forth which movers the rockers which in turm moves the drive rings. In order to allow the lobes that push against the rockers to move under non-moving parts they have to be spring loaded, which is done by rubber belts. The instructions show the use of two red belts to do this. I don't know if my particular belts were too old or used or whatever, so it may not be a fault of the instructions at all but I found that by adding a bit more tention, the lobes are now stiff enough to move the drive rings reliably into place. Don't go mad adding belts tho as this will make the slider too hard to move, you have to tune it to work just right which is not really a bad thing as the satisfaction you get when it works pefectly is wonderful! Just a couple more teeny tiny alterations and we are there! First was to remove this stop so that it now looks like this add a guide to here so that it looks like this and to prevent this from ever happening to the auto clutch just add a little guide runner here and BOOM! Jobs a good un. Maybe I just built it wrong somewhere, maybe it was because I was not using new pieces, but after a little bit of messing it now works perfectly. Didn't even have to resort to silicone spray! So remember guys, when you are building this build to the instructions first, if you are having problems then maybe these tricks will help. But yes, it does work great now and it's just fantastic! I love it! To check the function, move the slider back a forth to see if it moves easily enough for the shift mechanism to move it and, by only moving the slider, make sure you get the drive rings moving fully, in reverse; first second third forth and fifth then you should have no problems. So yeah, yours might work first time, mine nearly did. I did a little bit of messing but well well worth it. What a fantastic result! Now to do some serious test driving of the whole chassis. But first, look at the ground clearence! I had so much fun driving this thing that I almost forgot to build the body work. So how does it look in real life compared to seeing pictures on a computer screen? In a word, amazing! It's hard to convey the size and presence it has in a picture, but it really does capture the presence of a Land Rover. There are also little details I didn't notice before, like the air vents and the way the line of the bodywork continues through the doors. And the obligatory under the hood shot, it's nice and cramped with mechanisms in there. The battery box is nicely hidden away kind of where the fuel tank on a normal car would go. The tail gate opens up and there is also a storage compartment above the left rear wheel. You'll notice that I didn't have another Unimog wheel or enough grey panels, so I changed the floor to black. I think it looks great in black anyway! As for the interior, there isn't that much to see. There is some dials (didn't have the right ones but these will do!) and some basic seats. There is also a little cubby compartment between the seats, the 3 IR recievers are nicely intergrated behind the seats but sadly no cup holders! The underside is crammed with moving parts and quite authenticly laid out. The suspention travel is quite impressive too. And despite it being grey, it's still a gorgeous looking thing. Almost forgot to show the remote. I added a larger wheel because a) it's easier to steer with just one thumb but more importantly b) I didn't have the right one Time now for the obligatory comparison to another off-roader shot. Maybe now you'll get an idea of the presence it has. So to sum up, I love this model. There were some teething problems but nothing that can't be fixed and get working just right as advertised. The build was a tricky one at times due to the intricacies of the model, but not the instructions. There was the odd mistake in the part call outs, but overall they were very easy to follow and understand. The functions of the model itself are very authentic, from the way the suspention works to the steering to the gearbox (as close as is currently possible with current technic parts anyway) with it's transfer box and both of them being arranged where you would find them on a real Land Rover. The thing is even assembled like a real Land Rover. The looks of the model is superb, only let down at all by the bare nature of the interior. In fairness tho, have you been in a real Land Rover? This model is actually very authenic in that regaurds too. The build quality is very good. The only real issues here are little things like the trailing arms of the axles can sometimes pop off if you put too much pressure on them which is quite easy when picking it up. The performance is pretty good. It manouvers well and despite it's size and HUGE weight can move quite fast in top gear. But it is no crawler. It is a huge amount of weight to lift uphill and, whilst it probably can do it with it's nifty hi/low range seletor and 4 wheel drive, I would not want to test the drivetrain and axles to destruction to find out. TBH I don't really care if it can climb a 45 degree slope or not, it would be nice but performance isn't really what appeals most to me, it's how it does it. And in that respect this model is a winner. Now to the scores: Value (for instructions only) an easy 10/10. Functions 9/10. Lost a point only for not working 100% first time Authenticity (as can be afforded by current technic parts) 10/10 Looks 9.5/10 (could have done with a roof to the cab at least, aside from that, perfect) Build quailty 9/10 Overall: 9.45/10 , a must build!

Should be up in a couple hours. EDIT, it's up now.

Hey guys, is there a limit on how many pictures I can post? Should I start a new topic? All will be reveiled!

Full review coming soon

I had a hunch that this years set would be a supercar, so maybe next year. Gearbox would be easy enought to do, just needs a new evolution, something like this:

Well i'm currently finding all the parts. If I have them all (rebrickable says I do but we shall see) then i'll at least say what I think of it but I would like to do a full proper review with pictures, haven't done one before. I expect i'll have it built sometime tomorrow all going well. If anyone would like to PM me their questions, concerns and skepticisms feel free to do so.

Using exact colours on rebrickable, seems I have 99.4% of the parts needed already. Hmmmm, this may be the first non-official design I purchase! EDIT: Just made payment, now going to find the parts! Maybe i'll do a review. If I do then Sheepo be warned, i'm not known for being easily impressed and any review or opinions I make will be just the same as if it were an official set (with the exception that I know you don't have Legos capabilities/recources when it comes to making new parts/instructions), so watch this space!

Awesome movement, I love it!

I got them from B&Q

Yes the nxt servos are more accurate but I think 7 steps either side of 0 is accurate enough, plus the servo moves more than the valve so with the additional gearing down to match the valve movement you will get smaller movements on the valve. Really could do with a better remote for that tho, especially one than can give an absolute position to the servo instead of just adding or subtracting from the current position, which is not a very good system. But for now you could use simple mechanical adjustable stops (like a lift arm attatched to a 24t gear that is moved by a worm gear) on the valves to control boom drop speed for example and just use the normal bang-bang remote.

Built by Emilus I imagine this would be much easier now we have a PF servo motor.

For sure! Currently being gaurded by Mr Roamy!

I found it a little confusing to because they don't show you all the left over parts, so why are they showing these?

Not really, I usually use small wheels mounted to the rotating part to help support the weight and lessen friction, something the 42009 (trying to stay on topic here!) could have done. A friend of mine has his 3d printer working now. It still needs some dialling in and there will still be some hand finishing required, and i'll probably have to use steel ball bearings just for the prototype, but maybe I could persuade him to print these parts.

I think it's a good idea to keep your sets dissasembled anyway, especially the ones you are most fond of, because parts can be under stress whilst they are together and so can form cracks and breaks in them. So yeah, I would dissasemble them, and although it may cost some money, I cannot recommend enough that you start sorting your parts now into divider trays. I had well over 100 large sets before I started sorting mine, and it was a nightmare but very much worth it. If you want to find a piece but you know you only have one or two of them, if your parts are sorted well enough you'll find it very quickly which means you can build better MOCs and rebuild any set you have if you wish, even colour co-ordinating your MOCs becomes easy. As for ideas for beginners, helicopters can be very simple, just a rotating main and tail rotor. Try to build a small and simple helicopter with only those two functions and aim to make it look as tho it's a small official Lego set. Welcome to Eurobricks.

Two very good points, the ball cage may be over kill and having the outer part be one piece would made it much stronger and more accurate. The idea of splitting it and having the cage was to make it easy and fool proof for the customer to assemble theirselves, but then just droppng the balls into a hole would be easy to.

Some renders I have made, they do not show the mounting points, haven't decided on those yet, but I think they should over lap on thge two bigger halves so they can be held securly together.