dr_spock

Nice. I think there is steam dome inside the cab too. Yours looks better than it is today. Hope the Age of Steam Roundhouse Museum will be able to restore the engine after buying it from Strasburg...

Looks like they have some sort of unscheduled maintenance happening.

It is a very pretty set. Maybe not too hard to turn into an expensive Great Ball Contraption.

From 2010 Progress Report. Policies are only as good as their compliance and enforcement. “Guideline for weapons and conflict in LEGO experiences” A large number of LEGO mini figures use weapons and are – assumedly – regularly being charged by each others’ weapons as part of children’s role play. In the LEGO Group, we acknowledge that conflict in play is especially prevalent among 4-9-year-old boys. An inner drive and a need to experiment with their own aggressive feelings in order to learn about other people’s aggressions exist in most children. This, in turn, enables them to handle and recognize conflict in non-play scenarios. As such, the LEGO Group sees conflict play as perfectly acceptable, and an integral part of children’s development. We also acknowledge children’s well-proven ability to tell play from reality. However, to make sure to maintain the right balance between play and conflict, we have adhered to a set of unwritten rules for several years. In 2010, we have formalized these rules in a guideline for the use of conflict and weapons in LEGO products. The basic aim is to avoid realistic weapons and military equipment that children may recognize from hot spots around the world and to refrain from showing violent or frightening situations when communicating about LEGO products. At the same time, the purpose is for the LEGO brand not to be associated with issues that glorify conflicts and unethical or harmful behavior. “We have a strict policy regarding military models, and therefore, we do not produce tanks, helicopters, etc. While we always support the men and women who serve their country, we prefer to keep the play experiences we provide for children in the realm of fantasy.”

First instruction step would be open all numbered bags listed and pour them together? Great way to prolong the building experience.

Powered UP, Mindstorm Spike, Boost, etc. all use the same connectors. Whether an attached device works or not will depend on the firmware/software of the hub and smartdevice. 42099 has the technic hub with 4 ports and AA batteries. The smaller city PU hub has 2 ports and uses AAA batteries. It is same size as the Power Function AAA and rechargeable battery boxes. The Powered UP app for it allows for your own programming in addition to the built-in ones.

If you're starting new with no previous LEGO electrical systems, PU would be the easier way to go. It may be possible to connect the new PU motors to the old PF/9V system. You won't be able to use the functions built in some of the new PU motors like rotation/angle sensing but they could work like dumb motors under PF.

It's more legible with the outlines. My wife still uses WP51 for DOS. I've gone open source. I guess with source code I can recompile if necessary for new OS on the assumption I can figure out how to do that. Dang, software dependencies.

Have you tried contacting Hong Kong's LCP Andy Hung?

Absolute max voltage for the LB1836M motor driver in the V1 PF IR receiver is 10.8V and allowable operating voltage is 9V at 25 deg. C. DRV8333 driver in the V2 PF IR receiver has 10.8V for operating in the spec sheet. Do the Power UP hubs also use the LB1836M motor driver?

A tour with peek inside the motors and cabin.

Neat idea. Looks a standard 8x AAA holder you can get off ebay with some metal tabs attached to it. Is that what you did?

I found that a 6.5L axle works best with that crank piece. LEGO doesn't make a 6.5L axle though...

If you have a lathe, you can re-profile your LEGO train wheels. Not sure how small a flange you can go. Most likely you will to adjust your train speeds to avoid derailing in switches and curves.

Welcome aboard. Great job capturing the curves.

A Shay, Climax or Heisler would be interesting geared steam locomotives to offer.

You would need to be able to solder in order to remove the old LiPO pack and install a new one. Also care not to short the + / - leads when handling. Philo has some pics of its innards: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=399263

It is the same with the Haunted House. It only works with the PU motors specified in the set. Would it be possible to fake the ID of the Technic L motor?

Nice work. Do you have pictures of its left side?

I haven't encountered cracking yet. I had mine sitting in this cylindrical shape for the last couple of years before finally getting around to disassembling it this spring.

Do these have to be new models or layouts never shown before to qualify?

I guess someone didn't double check the technical aspect of the translation before going live. It doesn't even jive what's on the product's box.

Fun story. Was it a small company you worked for? Times were different back then.

Maybe clear silicone hair elastics?

Do the 12V power rails fit in the 9V tracks? Why do one when you can do both?