Milan

Reviewers sometimes use gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints on the parts. It is much cleaner that way, albeit uncomfortable. Tried it.

You're welcome! Thanks, since this is a branded model, it only seems fair to compare it with the real thing. You're welcome, buddy! I will give my best to do it, if someone doesn't beat me to it. I remember the rear shock is much harder than the front. But once in a model, it feels soft. It has 3+N, it does not have reverse. But yeah, the gearbox takes up a lot of space.

Thanks! Yeah, really, it was. Price is indeed something to consider. I am sure it makes it more clear if you are a bike fan Hope you two will have fun there, just make sure to have some patience with the stickers and some building steps. Yeah, I went straight to his video after posting my review. Those shocks are pretty hard, but they look awesome. Hopefully we will see them soon again.

Thanks, Jim! It means a lot coming from one of the top reviewers I love it, too! You're welcome Me, too! Yeah, the blue spring is mainly for show. Take a look at the new parts section in the review, I wrote a line about it, and HERE you can see a despicably huge pic of it

The BMW M1000RR review is online:

The BMW M1000RR review is online:

REVIEW - 42130 - BMW M1000RR K66 INTRODUCTION Here we are, the first 18+ Ultimate Collector Series Technic Motorcycle. And what a set it is! Can't tell you how excited I am for this set. I an avid bike lover, and have been riding since I was 14 (now 36), and during that time, I have changed a total of 6 motorcycles, from tiny mopeds, to full size 1000cc monsters. So, being given the opportunity to review a big UCS motorcycle was for me exciting as if I got a UCS Backhoe with hydraulic rams. There is just something special about the two wheels! I would also like to thank @Jim for making this review possible and helping me get this set! Thanks, buddy! So far, LEGO has released a total of 32 Technic Motorcycles, ranging greatly in size, functions and appearance. In order to be able to make some comparisons, I will list the five of the biggest ones (by part count): 5. 42036: Street Motorcycle Launch: 2015 Pieces: 375 Price: $39.99, 34.99€ 4. 8051: Motorbike Launch: 2010 Pieces: 467 Price: $39.99 3. 8420: Street Bike Launch: 2005 Pieces: 506 Price: $49.99 2. 42063: BMW R 1200 GS Adventure Launch: 2017 Pieces: 603 Price: $59.99, 49.99€ 1. 42107: Ducati Panigale V4 R Launch: 2020 Pieces: 646 Price: $69.99, 59.99€ Like my other reviews, I will try to include some personal real life experience, to include some simple .gif "animations", and to provide as much steps and images as possbile, without feeling encumbered. Obviously, I will do my best to give a decent explanation of the functions. I take notes while building, as I aim to provide the reader with the felling we are building and noticing everything together. Since I haven't paid 200 euro for this set, it's difficult for me to tell you whether a set is worth the money, but I will try to think about whether I would buy my own copy and for which amount. I would like to point out that I got this set just two and a half days before the embargo date, and was really working hard to be able to post it exactly on the time. I will keep an open eye and try to fix any mistakes I may have made. The box has arrived, let's ride...to the info of the real-life M1000RR! BMW M1000RR K66 M1000RR is a high performance motorcycle designed to meet FIM World Superbike and Superstock regulations. The new M is built around the S1000RR with revisions to its 999cc ShiftCam inline four. More power and less weight is the holy grail for manufacturers but add more electronics plus aerodynamic enhancements and a handful of chassis tweaks and the M 1000 RR was born. With a hearty £30,935 price tag. BMW's "M" division was created as a stand-alone subsidiary of BMW's car production that focused on building BMW race cars. The M1000RR is the first motorcycle that BMW have produced to grace the iconic "M" badge. Let's take a look at the numbers. Lot's of info for comparing our model with the real-life motorcycle. As we can see, this motorcycle has 1000 cm3, 212 HP, and just 192kg, which is pretty nice power to weight ratio, around 1100HP per tonne. For example, the Bugatti Veyron has a ratio of 530HP per tonne. Of course, there are motorcycles and even cars that have even better stats, but this still provides some values we can use for comparing. BMW Wings: You may have noticed on the second picture that this bike has "wings" that are attached to the very front of the body. Those have two purposes: - To help prevent "wheelies" - To help keeping the front forks springs "pre-loaded" a bit, and when the rider starts braking, the fork springs will compress less. BMW claims its carbon wings produce 16.3kg of downforce at the M1000RR's top speed of 186mph, and in testing improves lap times by 0.5-0.7 second. They are replicated on the model, too: PICTURES Pictures can be viewed in an extra large size (4000+). My Flickr album contains all the photos taken for this review. DISCLAIMER The CEE Team of TLG has provided this set. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42130 Title: BMW M1000RR K66 Theme: Technic Released: 2022 Part Count: 1920 Weight Box: 2.76 KG Weight Model: 1.45 KG Box Dimensions: 57,5 cm x 37,5 cm x 9,5 cm Set Price (RRP): €199.99 / $229.99 / £174.99 Price per Part: €0.104 / $0.112 / £0.091 Links: N/A THE BOX As we have gotten used to with 18+ set, this box also shows the model and nicely separated info about part count (1920 pieces). Somehow the black background works here nicely, and all the attention is on the bike itself. For me, the most satisfying section is the top right corner, where the scale of the model is printed. This is indeed 1:5 model of a motorcycle! Notice how the bike has been photographed from the lower angle, than an average person would by standing next to it. It makes it even more menacing and larger. You know how LEGO often makes the models on the box cover look like they are wide and full and dense, while in reality they are often skinny and thin? Well, you don't have to worry about it here. This model is THICK! That's where the backside of the box comes in. This image shows the same side of the bike, but from a different angle. Here, we can see a real M1000RR obviously cornering in high speed, a blueprint of the model with noted length (45.5cm) and height (27cm), the real bike and the model together including some forced perspective, and finally the model standing on its platform on a wooden table Both at the front and back of the box, the model has been shown with a stand with wheels. CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Instruction booklets 2x Sticker sheet (packed with the booklet) 1x Inner box Bags BOOKLET AND STICKERS The booklet and sticker sheets are wrapped in plastic. Unwrapped. The quality of the booklet is splendid. Sharp and clear. No damage. The sticker sheets. Yes, 79 stickers in total. You will either become an expert in sticking these, or you will hate then even more than you do now. No damage to them. INNER BOX The box contains an inner box, which contains some of the larger parts and a few bags. BAGS There are 15 bags for 5 different steps and 1 separate bag for some of the biggest elements. HIGHLIGHTED PARTS This sections describes new and recolored parts. WHEELS The part we have all been expecting (or hoping) for: a big pair of wheels! Two of them. No difference between them. Diameter is around 128mm diameter which is around 16 studs. Width of the rim itself is around 24mm, or around 3 studs. Six pin head, and axlehole in the center. The wheels have been modeled after the real wheels from the BMW M100RR. TIRES These are just ginormous. Two of them. The front one is narrower (27mm), the rear one is wider (37mm). The front one also has a bit smaller diameter (134mm), compared to the rear one (140mm). Hard rubber. Took some time to mount them on the wheel, as the ridges wont line up easily. Once mounted they really look majestic. Let's compare these with other big motorcycle wheels and tires. 1. VS the 88517 75mm D. x 17mm wheel and 11957 100.6mm D. tire. 2. VS the 51378 81mm D. x 28 wheel and 51380 tire 3. VS the 86652 43.2mm D. x 18mm wheel and 32019 62.4 x 20 S tire FORK TUBE WITH SPRINGS Motorcycle builders have probably waited for a part like this for quite some time. The main advantage of this part is that it has two sets of connection points, which are spaced out, effectively acting as lower and upper yoke. That gives much more strength and rigidity when connecting the front wheel with the frame. They have six connection points on the side of the cylinder, one axle hole at the bottom, and one round and one axle hole at the piston. We have got two of them. Around 140mm in length. SHOCK ABSORBER Hard shock absorber. The blue coil is mainly for the looks. The working spring is hidden inside. Has one round hole on one end, and one round hole and one axle hole on the other end. We have got one in the set. Around 70mm (9 studs) long. Compresses 12mm (1.5 studs). HUBS These are modified 11950 hubs. In this version they have a socket with square profile for the new fork tubes. Together they make a strong and rigid connection. We have got two of these. BRAKE DISKS One of the nicest parts and most realistic parts so far. We got two of these pieces in the set. Same diameter, 70mm. Comparison with the 65416 brake disk. WINDSHIELD A beautiful and highly specialized part. Essential for a realistic motorcycle model, but may be too unique and not so easy to implement on motorcycle mocs. Has a total of four pin holes, two sets of two, on the opposing sides. 90mm x 90mm. Technic, Link Chain, in pearl gold? Part 3711. has never been released in this color. We got 65 pieces of this part in this set. Technic, Panel Plate 5 x 11 x 1 Tapered, in Light Bluish Gray Part 18945, has never been released in this color. We got 2 pieces in this set. Technic, Panel Fairing # 1 Small Smooth Short, Side A and B, in Light Bluish Gray Part 87080 and 87086 have never been released in this color. We got 2 pieces in this set. Technic Cam, in Light Bluish Gray Part 6575, has never been released in this color. We got 15 pieces in this set. Wedge 2 x 1 x 2/3 with Stud Notch Left, in Dark Azure Part 29120, has never been released in this color. We got 1 pieces in this set. Technic, Liftarm, Modified L-Shape Quarter Ellipse Thick 2 x 3, in White Part 71708, has never been released in this color. We got 4 pieces in this set. PART LIST The complete part list for all 1920 parts. THE BUILD Let's take a look what the booklet says. It shows the five building phases. I was happy how they separated it, as from the first glance it seemed you would first build the engine, then the frame and swingarm and forks, and then the fairings. It was not exactly like this, but not very far from it. I received the box at late afternoon of the 6th Dec, Monday, and the embargo ends at 9th of Dec, Thursday, at 15:00 CET. So, I got two and a half days to unpack it, to build it, to take pictures at important points, to analyze it, to edit the pics, find about as much as I can about the real BMW bike, and to write up the review. I put it all in planner and figured if I take a day and a half off the work, avoid my family and girlfriend, sleep under 4 hours per night, this would be a piece of cake. And it was, thank you, planner! So, let's not waste time, we are now building against the clock! Let's go! (insert some short pipe bike revving here) As the booklet ordered, we start with the engine module. This is the right hand side of the engine module. And literally in the next few steps we start with the...gearbox! Now, I will try to cover these steps with as many photos as possible, so we all can see how the gearbox works. Here, we add the first parts of the ratcheting mechanism. We can see that the gearbox needs to be built in a way that all the gears and bushings have enough space around so they can rotate freely. I like that ratcheting mechanism. The axle on the right, will be foot lever/gear selector. Wave selector in. More gears in, and we get to put the foot lever. The gearbox is done. I will pause here to take a look at it. It is a three speed gearbox + neutral (the real BMW M1000RR has a six speed + neutral gearbox). The model does not have any new gears. Shifting is done via the foot lever, three clicks up, and three clicks down. I find it odd that the gearbox has neutral gear (N) in the place between the second and third gear. Usually, it should be between first and second gear (1-N-2-3-4-5...) So, you shift the gearbox on this model like this: ...1-2-N-3-N-2-1-2-N-3-N-2-1... After the gearbox, we are building the engine block. Again, let's take a look at the real motorcycle. The real BMW M1000RR has an inline 4 cylinder engine. Our model captures this, with its own inline four cylinder engine. We have transparent engine cylinders, with yellow pistons. Nothing new here, and most likely not much need for a new size of the cylinders or pistons. If we make a scaled comparison, yes, the pistons should have been 16mm wide, or 2 studs wide. The engine is connected to the gearbox via tan 20 tooth double bevel gear, which connects to the red 16 tooth clutch gear. This step is completed with the left hand side, made from liftarms and connectors. Final part to add is the chain. Here we add some cosmetic modules, mainly the radiator at the very front, and two side panels made out of tiles and slopes. Having completed this stage, let's think about it. How realistic is this setup? Motorcycles have the primary and secondary (or final) drive. The primary drive takes the power from the engine to the gearbox. The secondary drive takes power from the gearbox via gear (more correctly: front sprocket) which is connected to the rear gear (more correctly: rear sprocket) to transmit that power. For this purpose the sprockets on the front and rear are connected using either a chain drive or a belt drive in some cases. There are even shaft drives, but those are pretty rare to find these days. Our LEGO models tries hard to capture this setup, and the effort is visible, with somewhat limited success. So, we are looking for primary drive, gearbox and secondary/final drive. Also the number of gearbox speeds. 1. As noted, the LEGO inline engine drives the gearbox via 20 tooth double bevel gear, which connects to the red 16 tooth clutch gear. We can accept this as the Primary drive. 2. Gearbox section is where this setup fails, but not because of the design, but because of the sheer size of the gearbox. It literally takes the whole space in the inside of the step 1. Nevertheless, we have the Gearbox. 3. Front sprocket is the LBG 16 tooth gear, and the rear sprocket is the 40 tooth gear at the back. We have the Secondary/final drive. 4. The real BMW M1000RR has a 6 speed gearbox, our model has only 3+N speed gearbox. Verdict: theoretically, it is all there, just not in scale, with the massive three speed gearbox being too big to be realistic. This set could have been a nice way to introduce new clutch gears, to make an ultra compact and efficient gearbox. Just imagine having something like these in this set: Opening the Bag 2, and we start with the platform. It is incredibly useful as a stand for the bike while you are building it, as the frame cannot stand on its own. The platform is completed with the UCS style sticker, with info about the real BMW bike. We are building the frame, or the engine bottom. This will eventually hold the fork tubes. A few steps later we get to attend a mini marriage between the frame and the engine section. We can also see the yoke/neck section section at the front. The booklet tells us it is time to swing. The arm. And that brings us to... Nothing fancy here. Small turntable as the pivot point, small disk brake at the rear, fake brake hose, and one big sticker that mimics complex shape of the otherwise plain LBG panel. This is the frame with the right hand swingarm installed. And once we install the second swingarm and the big shock absorber, things started to look even better. Having completed this stage, let's think about it. How realistic is this setup? Let's examine the frame. Frame of the BMW M1000RR is a perimeter frame or a twin-spar frame. A perimeter frame or a twin-spar frame has two box section tubes that are fused to the yoke at one end and the swingarm pivot at the other in the shortest distance possible. The engine, on the other hand, is suspended off it. The end result is a performance-driven chassis that is more stable and rigid. Almost all of the motorcycles in motoGP have this type of frame. Our frame: It does try to mimic the twin spar frame visually, with clearly separated frame pieces going around the tilted engine-unit. Practically, it is not twin spar. We should probably acknowledge that creating strictly twin-spar frame would severely compromise the rigidity of the whole model, and hence they opted for a frame that connects with everything, everywhere, and has no definitive shape. I very much like their effort to keep the engine tilted, so it looks like it is a separate unit. Kudos for that. And with the back wheel... Next step is to construct the triple tree, or the fork tubes assembly. We get this very strong and sturdy setup... BUT...the attachment points are not too strong under the weight of the bike, when finished, and the forks and front wheel tend to move away from the bike when put on the ground. Also, at this point, we can see that the steering range is quite limited, which is okay for a sport bike, but it might have been a bit better for the LEGO model which you might want to push around a bit. If we want to keep it as real as possible, then the range is fine. While we are there, we are going to construct the front wheel with the brake disks and calipers, and the new wheel hubs. Now, we will pause with the build and make a stand with the wheels, which is scheduled for building at the very end, but I want to be able to take some photos with it now. Nice looking stand, which works great. It connects to the two swingarms and is able to hold the bike in plane. And the main reason I wanted this stand now, is because we have added some panels to the bike, and this is the closest we will get to the Streetfighter type of a bike from this set. This is the base of the nose section, with parts in a lot of various angles. Once we covered it with white panels and new windshield piece... And front mudguard... We have a number of smaller modules to attach to the bike, which now starts to look like a proper racer. At this point we can test the suspension, as all the bottom panels are installed. When pressed all the way down (please see the animations all the way down the page), the spoiler panels are touching the ground. The only parts left are the exhaust pipe and side paneling. Front wing. Front lower panel. Front upper panel. And once we attach all of these, we finally get to see the finished bike. Please note that at this stage, some panels feel a bit flimsy, by the way they are constructed, and the way they are attached. COMPLETED MODEL The final model measures 45.5 cm in length, 27cm in height, and 17 cm in width, and it makes it hard to imagine just how big this bike is without having it in front of you. Looking at this picture I can forget (at least for some time) the lack of more advanced functions and the 3 speed gearbox. Speechless as the first time I saw the box art! Allow me to just post a set of pictures which tells the story better than I could ever have. FUNCTIONS Functions and features are: - Steering - Suspension front and back - Fake 4 cylinder engine, driven by the back wheel - (3 speed + neutral) gearbox, operated via foot lever Steering animation: Suspension animation: SUMMARY This set will obviously have mixed reviews and opinions. On one side, there are people who would have preferred this set to be much more technical, with more elaborate functions. Should we have hoped for more complex functions, like a proper and compact 6 speed gearbox with new clutch gears, working brakes, adjustable suspension...? Probably, at least some of it. On the other side, there are people, average AFOLs, who would have preferred this set to be as good looking as possible, with a few basic functions. Should they be happy with the overall appearance of the model. More than likely. When it comes to the design of the set, I am in love with it. This is a proper racing motorcycle, looking as impressive as an actual BMW M1000RR. The gearbox is what it is. Having an huge gearbox can be a risk, as we have seen in some previous sets. I am impressed with its dense build and how many parts are connected to the chassis in all possible ways. I do not like how the connection between the fork tubes and the frame twists under the weight of the bike. With so many stickers, you will quickly determine are you a sticker lover or hater. Playability is probably not a primary concern for buyers. The set is to big too push around, and a limited steering range may make it even harder. It seems this might be more of a static scale model, then an actual set for "playing". How big? Here is comparison with a Yoda minifigure (pro-tip, Yoda is in the left bottom corner ): Regarding the price, for 200 euros you get 1920 pieces connected in a way to form a marvelously looking motorcycle. Again, this is just a motorcycle, so we need to factor in the fact that bikers (especially those who want a great looking set) would appreciate it much more than car persons or construction equipment persons. Bigger isn't always better, but the sheer size of the bike is impressive and its look is even more impressive. All things considered, I love most of it and I do think it's the best bike LEGO has ever produced. I hope that we will get more models like this one in the future, with some or all the flaws corrected. PROS Impressive design Impressive size Very premium look Great new parts for bike builders Nice shot at realistic functions and placement of the elements. CONS No advanced functions Weak yoke/neck point Limited steering range Price can be steep if you are after more than a good looking set Some people may hate having to put so many stickers Some panels are flimsy Strange choice for the neutral gear (between second and third gear). Usually the neutral gear (N) is between the first and second gear on bikes. SCORE How do I rate this set? 9 DESIGN Beautifully looking. Strong, dense and incredible connections of various parts at various angles. One point shy from 10 because of the weakish yoke/neck section, as the front forks setup twists under the weight. 10 BUILDING EXPERIENCE A truly 18+ set. Challenging but rewarding. Lots of stickers, but in this case, they make the difference. 6 FEATURES The basic ones are there. We have hoped for more. 7 PLAYABILITY Too big to push around, with a limited steering range. It is more of a static scale model with some functions. 10 PARTS A great selection of the incredible new parts for motorcycle builds. Applicable to other builds, too. 8 VALUE FOR MONEY This one is highly subjective and will probably depend on your budget and your preferences. Final score: 8.3 Thanks for reading. I hope you liked it

Review will be online on EB in two hours. It may not have everything we wanted, but I would say we will probably be thrilled when we see it

I did not talk about a specific brand, but a vehicle type. New parts and techniques in a motorcycles can be vastly different than in a supercar or, for Allanp, construction equipment set. Hence my reply in that manner. And embargo. Would love to see that, too, one day. Or a GSXR 1300

If you like motorcycles, you will most likely be happy with this set

December 9th 2021, 15:00 CET.

We were looking for a casual, but passionate biker, who rides most of the year, with the mandatory motorcycle tag on his profile, for this particular review. Jokes aside, the set arrived one hour ago, and the Canon is already hard at work.

Again a beautiful scale model from our ship builder Well done, @Edwin Korstanje. And nice to see you and @nerdsforprez sorted this out

We are scheduling a review for EB. Not sure if we are going to make it on 9th of Dec, given it will arrive just around that date, but we will give our best for it to be online asap.

Great first post! Frontpaged.

For steering on a road vehicle (not offroad), yes, you need to have a differential, for smooth drive. Alternatively, you could power just one wheel. Then you don't need a diff, and the car will not have troubles steering.

Theoretically, your vehicle should go in a straight line. Practically, the speeds of two different motors will never be exactly the same, and your vehicle may drive itself (steer) to one of the sides eventually. You can test individual motors by putting a differential between them. If the diff stays still while the motors are running, you have a pair of good matching motors. If the diff is rotating, one of the motors is faster than the other.

Please try to use English. I understand you did not do it on purpose, so just notifying you.

Do not tell other members what to do, use the report button. You have had quite a few warnings about this, do not push it. Stick to the topic. If you feel there is a need, use the report button.

@Gray Gear Yes. The tracks are mounted on the back to the chassis. Somewhere near the front they are attached via equalizer bar, thus allowing the tracks to move up and down independently, while the back sections are kept fixed. Until amon put his pics, here is a visual on how it can be done in Lego (Liebherr Tracked Loader, but they use the same suspension system as CAT on these machines). Regarding the LGB pole, that is a GPS device that helps the driver (and surrounding workers) to make precise movements of the machine, thus keeping the measurements of the project correct (at least on the ground level) and checked in real time.

@amon161 Welcome to EB! What a nice dozer! In a not so common color, which makes it even more appealing. Nice work on all the angles, specifically on the cabin and on the hood. Functions look nice too, as well as the suspension. @Gray Gear It looks like it has an equalizer bar, with a center pin mounted on the chassis, and its sides mounted on each of the tracks.

Guys, to avoid reviving the topic each time someone wants to ask for the parts list, please use PM and ask the user who has them to share it with you. Thanks.

Hey Jon. it is really easy. As guys said, just make an account on Flickr, Bricksafe or use other sites that do not require an account (Postimages, Imgur). Then upload your images there (mind the EB's allowed size) and just paste the link here. Images will be shown in your post. Here is a step by step guideline:

@Danifill Please resize your photos to allowed limit. Check the pinned topic about that. Love the car, especially the back. Also, the filming location seems like a really nice place to live.

Welcome to EB Your post is fine, your pictures and video are visible, and are of correct size. For suggestions, just one: you may want to keep the size of the text the same throughout the post, it just looks more neat and clean. Difference usually occurs when you copy and paste from other posts/sites. Yes, I know it is repetitive, but we (staff) need to remind those rules, for the forum to be efficient for all. That being said, thanks for taking the time to try and see how to make a good post in the designated topic If you need any help, ask via M or in the forum And finally, your B model is indeed looking like a brother of 8840, very similar in styles. I wonder how it would look if you would put another set of tires on the front axle. Some forklifts have thicker tires on the front compared to the back ones.