Andy Glascott

Hi and welcome, It's not unusual for 12v motors to take some time to "warm up". I have several motors, all at least 20 years old, and if I don't run them for more than a week they stutter a lot. Turn the power on, each time the motor stops give it a little push and be patient. It may take 10 minutes for a train to run without stopping. Each time it goes round your layout it should run a bit further between stops. Hope that helps, Andy

I've got two loops connected via points as well and all I've used is standard isolating tracks from the signal sets. Each loop has a separate power transformer and the trains run in opposite directions. To switch the two trains over, one has to run in reverse to make sure the current direction matches up, but that's all I need to do. The only slight loss of power on my layout is that one transformer runs two (completely unattached to each other) loops, and the tiny loss of power was such I decided not to get a fourth power pack. Andy

Is a layout ever finished....? My current one took about 8 weeks of focussed building to get it to a stage where I could run trains, but I'm still tweaking it and adding bits and pieces. I've recently moved the footbridge round the corner, added lights to the signals at one end of the top (9v) level. There's more I'd like to do... I agree with the comments about deciding what you want in the layout first and taking it from there. I wanted to be able to run as many trains as possible at the same time, so went for multiple loops (as large as I could manage in the limited space I have) and as most of my trains are currently passenger trains a large feature station that can hold the six passenger trains at the same time and the freight train can pass on the outermost loop. Andy

You might be the one to find out and tell the rest of us? Andy

Very useful to know, thank you. Andy

My guess is that it would be rather simple to do - I cut a small gap into two tracks to act as extra isolating tracks for signals. If I eve want to use them as ordinary conducting rails again all I need to do is get a small amount of the conducting tape used to convert PF plastic track to 9v and stick that either over the gap or along the side of it. There are no adverse affects so far... If you were to cut a track in half you could then use some of this tape to ensure current passes from the cut section to the one next to it instead of having to solder a new tab on. Let us know how you get on Sok, it's something I might consider in future. Andy

The bottom level of this tunnel swallows my freight train whole - that's a loco and 5 wagons - each of them being in the "standard" six-wide and 28 - 34 stud long size. My layout is 8 feet by 4 feet (or approx 240 cm by 120 cm). What you can't see is that it's a double tunnel with two tracks going in side by side on one side and then coming out separately, one in the pic and one under the grey 12v track on the right of the picture. It also plays a key role in supporting the levels above! The middle level takes my extended (5 unit) version of 7745 whole.... Hope that helps to give you an idea of scale. Andy

Hi tmctiger, I've got a couple of large-ish mountains on my layout with trains running through and on them, the images are here and the video of the construction process is . They aren't instructions as such but may help.Watching the video you can see that I built a sturdy frame first, in most places the frame that the trackbed sits on is 4 plates high with a three plate (1 brick) trackbed sitting on top. Where curved track is used the trackbed is 2 plates and a layer of tiles as the third layer with the end of a bend, all either 4 or 8 curves, stuck to the studs of the third layer where straights join the curve. The pillars are about 14 bricks high, make sure you check clearances for your trains as you go! Once the frame is in place you can build the side of the hills/mountains in green/grey etc. Make sure you have some points on the pillars of the frame you can anchor the "greenery" to to keep the structure secure. For more detailed trackbeds do a simple search on Brickshelf for the term "ballast" and you'll soon see lots of options. Hope this helps, Andy

That is mighty impressive AussieJimbo. As someone else might say, brick on! Andy

Has anyone else seen this "genuine" "research"? I thought it was a bit of fun, it definitely brought a smile to my face on a Monday morning. http://www.newsbiscuit.com/2011/09/25/shock-report-predicts-50-of-all-lego-figures-will-be-obese-by-2030/ Andy

I've been waiting to see the "finished product" before commenting, and the wait has been worth is Sok, a great station. Back in my early 12v days I dreamed of a station like that. The little platforms that came with the sets were never enough, a platform should be long enough for the whole train imo. This does that and has so much more besides. The details are fantastic, all the components are there - signals, bridges, various rooms and offices. The front cover of a new version of the 7777 book would be graced well by this. Well done. Andy

The best bet for cleaning the metal conducting rails and the connecting shoes on the 12v motors is cotton wool and methylated spirit. I've used it on my 25+ year old 7740 and track without any problems. Andy

Mighty impressive! If you can close the gap by the windscreen it will be almost perfect! Sorry for not replying earlier but have been on holiday. In Ireland..... Andy

My current layout has a 12v transformer supplying power to two (granted small) loops at the same time on different levels, there's no noticable drop in speed of the trains running on them. I seem to from remember years ago that more than two trains was a bit of a struggle and that's why I bought more transformers. Andy

I have several (2 or 3, can't remember exactly) of these, but they all have wires coming from them to connect directly to the power transformer. I seem to remember the instructions (long lost!) saying it was for reducing electrical interference with nearby tv's, radios etc. Can't say I've ever noticed, they are though much easier and neater to use for supplying power than wires into other tracks. Andy

I got hold of a 2nd 7745 too (part of a job lot of train and other lego) and merged it with my first to make a 5 car unit. It looks sooooo much better longer. Only drawback was I then felt a need to lengthen my 7740.... Worth it though Andy

I'm a very keen train fan, but possibly a lone voice here, I'm not fussed about it..... It's a very impressive set, I'd be happy to own one, but I'm not going out of my way to buy it. I just don't think it would fit with my collection of 6 wide sets and MOCs. Ultimately, I'd rather spend my £70 or so that it would cost on parts to create another MOC or enhance my layout. I'm working towards all my trains being models of real life (current or past) trains. Though if someone bought it for me as a gift, well that's a different story! (Sadly my wife doesn't read this forum....) I'm ready for the chorus of boos! Andy

In the region of 5,000 to 6,000 in total.

I've just remembered I filmed the building of my tunnels! I know I've posted this before, but the beginning of the video particularly is all about building the two twin-level tunnels. In total there are three levels of track, 2 in the tunnels and 1 sitting on top. the video. If it helps, I can post a series of stills used to make the video sequence. Andy

I've built a couple of layouts with tunnels on multiple levels over the last 3 to 4 years. All of them are open sided/backed, only the visible sections are built to colour. The open sides etc help with access when there is a derailment etc. As a rough estimate, based on Bricklink purchases specifically for the hills/tunnels on these layouts (the latest one it here) there are about 4,000 2x2 green bricks and about 1,000 other bricks made up of 2x3, 2x4, 1x1, 1x2 and other assorted bricks in the two tunnels. I don't want to think of the cost.... Andy

I've got the following combo of MOCs and sets: 4558 - Metroliner (With the extra club car) 7740 - a 12v classic with an extra carriage MOC'd onto it 7745 - another 12v classic. I actually have two, but combined them into one train with a power car at either end and three carriages. It runs on one motor. MOCs: An Irish Rail set, with 2 x 9v motors in it, it's quite a heavey set with a loco and three carriages A British Rail Class 50 (12v) pulling 3 carriages A British Rail Class 37 (12v) pulling 6 mixed freight wagons, most of them MOCs but including the wagon from 4549. A MOC 0-6-0 steam engine (12v) pulling three of these green carriages from TLG. Sitting unpowered at the moment is my Duchess of Sutherland 4-6-2 steamer and a PF motor.... They might be combined, or I might work on a 2-car DMU from East Midlands Trains that runs through my locality. I make that 7 working and running on my layout with 1 sitting idle and one very much a WIP... Andy

I've got some of those and they work fine. Andy

Rather than buying dedicated traction bands for 12v motors, I use bicycle inner tubes such as these. Most cycle stores will have an equivalent. For £3 I've got an almost endless supply, I simply cut a section off wide enough to fit the wheel. Andy

I tend to focus on getting several trains running at once, preferably with the ability to pass each other by, then build a bit of town/scenery around them. Current limiting factors are space, hence the three levels, I'd much prefer to have more space and spread things out a bit. One day I'll build a layout with town, countryside and everything else. One day.... Andy

I've achieved this by using points facing each other with an isolating track in between them on my 12v loops. The blue track section is simply to highlight the location of the isolating track from a 12v signal. Each pair of points is controlled by one switch on the control panel. Each loop is powered by a separate 12v controller and the isolating tracks (between the points)prevent short circuits which means I can run trains in opposite directions to each other. The other isolating tracks are for the station. To switch a train from one loop to the other I simply stop one on a signal in the station area, make sure the current from both power controllers is running trains the same direction and open the points to switch the train from track to track, then repeat the process with the other train. This set-up suits me as it gives a gap between the loops for a platform, though further playing around with loops and points can bring the tracks next to each other if you want to. Hope this helps, Andy