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Everything posted by Jerac
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Perhaps you twisted it. It doesn't matter where you put the cogs, just their rotation. They will self-right later on when you embed the gearbox in supporting structure.
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Yes, exactly. If you do it right it will be perfectly level. Do you perhaps have an idea how to show it in the instructions?
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Unfortunately this is the biggest issue I had, and despite all the work I put into it, I couldn't find a definite solution. This is also a problem studio models had. The gearbox is providing all the friction. However, please show me few photos of the rear area from different angles, with wings open and closed. I might find some issue. I understand perfectly. Yes, you need to rebuild this section. There will be no straining pieces or no damage or anything, but the wings will be always slanted in relation to the fuselage. It is important to get the gears and axles straight in the first few steps of the build.
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Now I know how people designing cars feel when they see their creation with crazy aftermarket parts. Amazing, in a good honest way! I love all the little changes people do. Please keep them coming! I'd like to do a compilation of every non-stock ship one day.
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Right. I see what you did with the strip near the cockpit. As you can see, it is already showing a gap. It really needs to be 1x4 plate instead of pair of 1x2s. Since this change affects structural integrity, this will definitely void the warranty :D On a more serious note, this is okay for display purposes but it means the nose is now very weakly connected and can snap off during moving the ship. If I can recommend something, use a white 1x4 under the hinge piece and make the strip with a red sticker. As for the engines it shouldn't be a big deal.
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Can you show a 3/4 shot, top-side-front? Certainly it looks interesting! I totally did not get that idea of using printed tiles... damn!
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Hah can I trade with some of mine? :D
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Does it require such massive stands? Could it be supported on one central stand? What was the total parts cost? What is the instruction's cost?
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The hinges. They are always causing issues... Maybe there is a better way to make the wings? But overall feel of this area is good, the ship is narrow and sleek like it should be. The only area which is not right is the barrel-shaped barrel at the top of the nose. It definitely should be bigger diameter than the nose, and here it really seems like it should be a 2x2 round brick. Maybe the variant with two holes on the sides?
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Well the T-70 is in pipeline later this year, altough most likely it won't be finished in 2018. I intend to use the very same solution for wings, unless their smaller width causes issues warranting developing a different solution.
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Thanks! Yeah, the build really gets its final stiffness very late when all the parts are attached. This is a side effect of external submodules being the load-bearing ones.
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NOT THIS AGAIN. I heard that every creator passes some of his traits or soul into his creations, whatever the medium. I think it is sentimental... thing* but in this case it is all true: I am a short guy and the pilots for my ships have to be short as well. First, the TIEs, where I fixed it finally with the First Order design. Then the Bomber, which had a major redesign. Then Vader also wouldn't fit initially, As for X-Wing, we tested this with BrickVault. I specifically removed one tile from the seat to add that one plate height required to fit the new helmet. It was all right. AND IT IS LIKE THAT AGAIN. But I strongly believe it should fit, because by that time we usually had way more reports of issues with the helmets... try checking all the parts, especially the submodule with the seat piece. *do you know Eurobricks forum autofixes offensive words, in this case the droppings of a male cow, into "megabloks" word? :D
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Ah this gap.... no, sorry, it is a side effect of this being done the way it is (the top half is installed half a plate height lower than normally). You can cover it with additional 1x2 curve slope but to me it looked too bulky and the gap was an acceptable tradeoff.
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Thanks for feedback! I will investigate what's up with instructions and missing pieces later on when I return to my workshop... must be something with the rendering process because the model has these printed pieces and they don't just disappear. I was wondering about moving to Studio 2.0 but it is far too slow to be able to handle such a big model, sadly. There should be no gap, and especially not any assymmetrical one. Can you please take a photo? As for blue pins, the guns have stripes which are kind of bluish in hue... I liked this detail so I added it.
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It looks that bad.
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I am not a fan of this set to be honest. A porg is two spheres merged: its belly and a head. The LEGO set is more like three spheres, more like a snowman. Why is it like that, no idea...
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Version 9 sadly has the same issue. I think I know what caused it and hopefully it is contained within this one submodel only. If you happen to find it in other steps tell me! Thanks in advance!
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Thanks for feedback! Which colour variatnt and version are you building? Version is embedded within file name, should be 9 but I know some people got 8 and 7. If you don't have 9 then please ask BrickVault to send you the newest one. Colour variant matters because they're slightly different and page 14 might be one thing in blue and another thing in red. --edit-- riiiight you are right about improper parts count.... what the hell. And apparently in this one step only? I'll investigate it later. Thanks again!
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And that's it! I guess in this scale there is not much else to be done. Good job!
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[LDD] [MOC] Imperial DX-9 Troop Transport ...shuttle....thing.
Jerac replied to Blip's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Great! Is this the imperial boarding transport from x-wing series games, isn't it? It looks absolutely awesome! Can you show few more shots? -
Oooh shiny, that Bluerender thing! Thanks!
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The Rebel Soldier might be stupid, but is lucky. Imperial made a mistake, he is in a high speed turn and will for sure miss his target, and expose his back to the Rebel, being a nice juicy target! How did you make this scene in LDD? You can customize backgrounds now?
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Yeah it actually started to look like the original ship! Now next area of interest could be engines. The should be roughly flush with end of the ship, not sticking out.
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The second one already is much better, now you need to think what can you do about these huge gaps between slopes.
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The top hull of the ship is a series of cylinders or truncated cones. This is the technique you need to master. Your current ship's hull crossection is a rectangle with some curved slopes attached to make it rounder. In this scale it just won't work. You need to make a circular cross-section, and actually plenty of them, and try to think this way. Maybe examine LEGO Saturn-V set, it is excellent source of ideas and its first stage might be used for your fuselage. It will be a bit smaller, but maybe you can expand on saturn-v idea? There is even that place where Saturn-V rocket gets thinner and it tapers nicely to this new narrower diameter, you can very well reuse this in the bomber. Cockpit will be hardest. There is no single part for it. Again I'd look at the Saturn's tapering part for reference and try working with that by adding windows where necessary. When you will have the cylindrical and conical sections of the ship done, you can get for comparatively easier bombing section and finally wings, gunner pods, detailing, engines, greebles and such. Normally I don't recommend using 3D models for scaling, because whoever made the model might have done it wrong and thus you would have both his and yours errors, but in this case I think it is good enough. That seems to be a nice image as you have shots from all major directions and you can take measurements from these. Use http://scaler.sariel.pl/ tool for determining scaling of each section. For example. if you determine that hull's diameter should be 10 studs, then total length of the ship excluding cannons would be 58 studs, and beginning of cockpit cone should be 7, tapering to 4: (I used 100 instead of 10 for extra precision but the rule is the same). I think, however, you should master small scale first and then go to big scale. As krisandkris12 said, bigger scale is WAY harder than small scale.