Junpei

Yeah, I've already used up all of my 16 tooth gears as well as 12 tooth bevel gears. I'm working on the central gearbox right now and already I've had to take some of the 16t gears from the planetary gear reduction assembly.

Oh yeah, I forgot about that part. I think the 42009 ones are your best bet then.

Model Team tyres. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2695c01

Well I think if it's a van, then MT wheels should be perfect. Not sure if you can have 5-stud tall suspension with those though...

I just did it for fun, I have a million of any of these pieces anyway. :P You're right though, it's pretty stupid! Oh well.

Brute force.

Wow, MOCers like you never cease to amaze me It's so cute and lifelike, you captured it so perfectly!

I think he'll be using the modified ones that actually work very nicely. MT wheels come to mind, but I might be misinterpreting what you're saying. I'm not exactly sure what wheel diameter you want.

Yeah, I know. But that tiny amount of space isn't enough. Maybe with a lot of force though, but I don't really care, as none of the pieces in it are really of much value.

Finally, some progress...! Sorry I posted a topic about a piece of garbage. I have finally updated the axle, and it looks and works much better now. And to wonder why I only got one reply about this pile of megablocks, and it was probably just to be nice even though it was terrible! Looking back at it, it really looks sickening This is my first attempt at really building anything studless, and I think my efforts to start building with studless parts paid off. Here is a pic, and I apologize for the noisy background, I couldn't find a better place to shoot it. The steering is now stronger, as I have replaced the links with LA's, and the drivetrain has much less friction now. The planetary gear reduction: Four driveshafts, for 4 independent functions: A nice close-up shot, showing the mounts for the links that will soon be placed once I build the gearbox: And the portal axles, inspired by efferman: Three positions of the steering: Straight: Normal steer: And finally, the main function of this crawler, zero steer. So now that there's an actual project in this topic, what do you guys think? And as always, C&C greatly appreciated!

Sorry to bump this topic, but I think it was worth it. Here's my contribution to impossible lego: Impossible to put together? Apparently not. But impossible to take apart.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's what Alasdair was saying. 5.5L axles are quite useful despite their odd length.

My 8069 had 6-hole rims. Sometimes they are more useful than the 3-hole variation, but that hole in the center is kind of weird, I wonder what the reason for that is...

I think Bricklink is your best option here. But thinking about it again, I think a set with lots of liftarms, gears, and motors (i.e. 9398) would also be good. I think it's just a matter of what you want though.

Congrats to all the winners! Will the pinned [TRIPLE] topics be deleted?

Ok. I see grooves on the axles, for the bushings I'm assuming? Also, I was actually talking about on the actual motor assembly, are the things in an L-shaped arrangement on top studs? Just look at this video, and tell me you don't want a car with one of these. The performance is even better than I thought!

I think it would just have more torque, but at the same speed, maybe lower, because the possible difference in motor speed it not compensated for by an adder. But maybe that doesn't really matter. I hope to see your progress on this ;)

Hmm, I wonder if the electric connection is compatible with any kind of Lego wires. Are the things on top of it studs? I know Zblj has made a normal axle to large wheel adapter, but has anyone tried to adapt the superaxles to normal ones? I think it may be useful if it meets that criteria.

I think the max for a AA battery box is 1 XL and 1 M motor. For the AAA, it's 2 XL motors, or 1 XL motor and 2 M motors.

Looks awesome! I love how you always use a caster angle on your live axles.

Hey, does anyone have any experience with this part? I'm thinking about buying one, and they are quite cheap actually, and I would like to know if it has any kind of mounting point to combine with normal technic. Thanks!

You know, the square bottomed cylinder are actually cheaper than the ones with the rounded bottoms. The square ones are on average $4.50 apiece, and rounded bottom cylinders are about $6-7...

Hmm, I wish Lego would make a set with the rechargeable battery to make it more affordable, but I guess that will probably never happen...

Nice clean lines! But I agree with TinkerBrick, you should probably make the engine smaller.

Wow, that looks awesome in real bricks! I don't think it is 800 studs long though...