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Technyk32231

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Everything posted by Technyk32231

  1. Technyk32231
    I thought there was less slack if you put an axle through it, just like the portal hubs... Speaking of portal hubs, sideways portal hubs work well, and if the top of the hub is pointing forward, it also provides a great place to put suspension links.
  2. Technyk32231
    I always align the slot on the side of the bush with the slot on the nearest part with a slot, such as a cross block or angle connector with cross hole. I always have the slots line up on a row of bushes. I noticed that the two ends were different, but never really thought anything of it. Yep. But it's CDO, so the letters are in alphabetical order like they should be.:-D
  3. Technyk32231
    How are the instructions going? This is a pretty large moc...
  4. Technyk32231
    You know, they make those rims in white...
  5. Technyk32231
    You could just put axles in the rear hubs..
  6. Technyk32231
    I just had another idea. You could instead of using just two arms on each side, use 4 of the technic bricks with two layers of plates in between, to make them 3 studs apart. Keep them also 3 studs apart vertically. Then, mount the new 42000 rear hubs to this using long pins, and instead of a cv joint, just use an axle. I don't know if the geometry of the hub allows this, as I don't have them, but it could be worth a try.
  7. Technyk32231
    No, both rc motors turn the differential case. There is a brake on each of the differential's outputs. When the servo turns to one side, it puts pressure on the corresponding brake, therefore stopping that output.
  8. Technyk32231
    Welcome to Eurobricks! Are the arms that you are talking about the long technic bricks? If so, I would first suggest switching to studless arms, as they are easier to build strong hubs around, especially in your situation, since you have an odd spacing , and that is harder to build in the usually even spaced studfull.(sorry for the run on sentence)
  9. Technyk32231
    Terenshi wasn't talking about the wheels on this SUV, but another of Madoca's creations.
  10. Technyk32231
    Try the steering mechanism from zblj's ripsaw tank.(search "lego ripsaw" on youtube)
  11. Technyk32231
    I think it's a joke...
  12. Technyk32231
    They are the wheels from the VW camper, 8071? Bucket truck. No, the older ones attach by ball joints. If you look in my brickshelf (technyk32) under the Ideas folder, look at the wheel hub there, and flip the black connectors.
  13. Technyk32231
    I hope you aren't using threaaded axles to transfer torque...
  14. Technyk32231
    Oh, I see, the knuckles used in 8448.
  15. Technyk32231
    Now that's a monster truck... Does it still steer lock to lock without rubbing the tires against each other?
  16. Technyk32231
    Those are the same knuckles used in 8070...
  17. Technyk32231
    What do you mean, new type suspension?
  18. Technyk32231
    Nice Grave Digger! How did you do the wheels, they look taller and skinnier than standard 94.8x44R tires.
  19. Technyk32231
    Then I don't think it would even transfer torque.
  20. Technyk32231
    Just saying, I checked bricklink, and there is an rc motor available for 26 usd.
  21. Technyk32231
    Huh, I never would have guessed that...
  22. Technyk32231
    Those are real parts, I don't know the part numbers though. The dark gray part is half of the torque tube found in 8110 and 9398, and the metal ball was released in the mindstorms ev3. This assembly is used in the mindstorms ev3 as a ball caster
  23. Technyk32231
    Wouldn't the rubber band just fall off? Besides, most third party tires are for off road, and have a deep tread, and a rubber band has the opposite, plus it could rotate around the tire unless it has the right tension. Try putting those fixed length rubber tracks around the 94.8x44R tires. If I remember correctly, I've done that before and it fit perfectly, but performance really depends on the terrain
  24. Technyk32231
    Very original and good looking at the same time. Keep it up!
  25. Technyk32231
    Look at the photos of the model, and see how many details you can see in each photo. First, I would look for major things like frame rails and studless frames. Once you have those in place, you can probably figure out what connects to them and where and how, then repeat that process until you have a finished model.
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