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Technyk32231

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Everything posted by Technyk32231

  1. Technyk32231
    That's not exactly compact....... Mbmc's mini Tatra 8x8 has instructions for a 13 wide driven steered independent axle.
  2. Technyk32231
    Wouldn't that shock absorber just pop out of the axles or pins?
  3. Technyk32231
    That universal joint won't work. That joint only allows one degree of freedom, and a regular universal joint has three degrees of freedom.
  4. Technyk32231
    Haha, very funny!!! Alcohol does burn though, so it's possible...... Does the frame flex at all? It seems like the wheels aren't moving straight up and down, but in an arc, like a swing axle. To bring the larger packages right to people's doorsteps.....if the driver does't drink it first.
  5. Technyk32231
    If you just cut off the part where an axle goes in, and put axles of some sort coming out that are permanently attached, then the joit itself would only take up one stud of space.
  6. Technyk32231
    Just go to his website (www.sheepo.es), and click on the Downloads tab. Scroll down, and there will be a link to download all MPS components.
  7. Technyk32231
    Yeah, I was thinking that too..... just wanted to wait until someone else posted about it so nobody thought I was crazy.
  8. Technyk32231
    What about a sliding pillar independent front suspension or a Chapman strut independent front suspension?
  9. Technyk32231
    I would have to say that my worst MOC was my first attempt at a supercar, when I was 7 or 8 years old. It was AWD, it did have steering, and the axles did work well, but it didn't have suspension, and I made the dumbest mistake with the gearbox. The input of the gearbox was hooked up to the front axle, and the output was hooked up to the rear axle. So, the axles would go at different speeds. The gearbox was the 4 speed by Sariel though (nonsynchronized)
  10. Technyk32231
    Do you mean suicide doors, the ones that hinge at the back?
  11. Technyk32231
    If I did that, I'd run out of pieces really quick! What I do is just build the chassis first, then build the body.
  12. Technyk32231
    I think that for a lego car to be called a supercar, it must have, at least: Working gearbox Full suspension Working fake engine Bodywork These basic requirements change with the scale, so a smaller car doesn't need as advanced features, while a larger car should have more advanced features.
  13. Technyk32231
    Try using 6L links, because you can put an axle through the joints. Also, for better control, you could try some version of a triangulated 4 link, but without 9L joints. Good luck building! http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/88high/IDEAS/4-link-suspention/dsc01271.jpg
  14. Technyk32231
    Very nice! I like models like these, small, good looking, and functional. Very good axles, nice and narrow.
  15. Technyk32231
    Thanks. Those hubs are my own design, and they're very sturdy. You can also use them in place of standard hubs, as you can attach parts in the same places, and still achieve good steering lock, as there aren't any CV joints.
  16. Technyk32231
    That isn't a good idea! There's a reason there are no one stud long axles. If you happen to push it into a piece like a long pin with end bush, it won't come out. Besides, axles are for connecting things, and the only thing you can connect with a one stud long axle is two thin liftarms.
  17. Technyk32231
    Oh, sorry, I just posted those photos on Brickshelf about 5 minutes before this post. They should be up in about a day, maybe less.
  18. Technyk32231
    What about these? I use these hubs a lot, as they are very versatile. You can move the ball joints to different positions, or even remove them for a floating axle setup. This setup also allows wheels to be driven, and there aren't any parts that are very rare. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=526963
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