shimon

Here is my version of the 42020. i know some parts may be in wrong places because if you look closely the bottom picture model is quite different from the main one. So combining those pictures and adding some TLG logic (less parts if possible) i came up with a small replica and here it is.. 42020.lxf

Nice replica. Few things I have to mention; the black gear does not switch functions but allows mechanical operation and the clutch is from the left side activated by the yellow connector as seen in the small pic, cabin seems 1 stud forward and the bley connectors below the door aren't the part you used but, as long as it looks good and works I guess it's fine, good job! I also like to make replicas can't wait for other set pics.

Replica will soon be ready! It's beautiful how individual pixels can reveal parts like the mini LA hiding there activating the outriggers ;) and also the yellow connector from the left side of the truck in the place of the black gear which activates the clutch

Wow. Very nice, I like it a lot !!

Once I bought the 7784 batmobile and it had a missing bag that was nowhere to be found. After contacting TLG they sent me the missing parts.

Here's and update of my 42008, 1 thing i cant really understand about it is the crane lever position.. i can see it attached to the red pin with axle hole to the bent liftarm but the liftaram can rotate freely because it is only connected on 1 edge.. weird.. Update: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/shimon8421/42008/42008v2.lxf

Nice replica. twice? can i have a link or a picture to the second version of 42008?

reverse engineered? it seems 100% copy of my work...

Thanks guys :) I might update it if new pictures arrive

Thanks guys! Every pixel was a hint, I hope I got atleast 90% of the model righ, can't wait for real instructions

Hello everyone. I wanted to try and reverse engineer the 42008 and here are the results: My replica has 1128 parts, all functions are connected properly, the inner part was half hinted from pictures and half designed by me. The most difficult parts was placing the motor as there were no hints from the available pictures It took me 3 days to complete it, enjoy!

Thanks for the replies guys. Hopey: the point is it is not 100% that it will work if it includes friction and secondly it will give the motor a big power loss... if the preference between functions is depend on friction. Alasdair Ryan: theoretically it might work but imagine the power loss due to the clutch friction... or if the function has more friction than the clutch it will never get activated.. The mechanism shouldn't be depend on friction or gravity it should be pure mechanism that will work 100% and it is hard to think about something like that

Hello everyone. While working on my new project i came across a need in a mechanism that will do the following things: Having only 1 motor it will operate 2 functions. while the first function has a limited angle (like a lever switch) and the other one that can spin continuously. For example an auto-valve: when operating the motor the first movement when the motor turns clockwise will be moving the pneumatic switch and right after it moves the switch it will spin and activate the compressor, same thing when right after you switch to counter clockwise: first the lever of the witch will go to the other side and then the compressor. eventually i ended up with Sariel's auto-valve modifying it for Technic and making it smaller. but then such a mechanism as mentioned will allow us many useful functions like having advanced crane outriggers that will first extend and then deploy: all with 1 motor and when motor activated other side it will lift the outriggers and then they go inside.. such mechanism cannot rely on a differential because it doesn't determine the sequence of the functions and each function can be activated any time without any sequence.. so here is the challenge: a solid mechanism that will have 1 output that is in 1st priority, it must be activated first and it's spin angle is limited and the second output that will be activated only when the 1st reached to its end and the same backwards. everything with 1 pf motor. Thanks everyone in advance! Also if such mechanism was invented please share it because i have never seen one that works by this method.

I think it might be a success if you construct the bike with one or two buggy motors, they are fast and pretty strong. The body will contain the AAA battery box, the motor and IR pf unit, then for the steering you can construct a technic person on the bike having the steering motor to move his arms which will turn the bike as in real life. This idea might succeed because first of all the body can be constructed very precisely: there is room for suspension, and the body components are not so big. Secondly in my opinion it would look wierd to see a bike driving on its own, I think it would look much better with a simple built lego racer with a hand lever that would controll the steering. Good luck !

Thank you guys very much!! About the 3rd floor, I know that all modulars have atleast 3 floors but the broblem is that I ran out of parts and tiles . Yas I said the only sets I have are 10211 and 10218 And also I planned doing it with black windows but I have none and I also don't have any more dkgreen windows.. Also I think it may look even better in a professional shot with a white background I'll try to do 1 today Anyway thanks for the comments:)

B-OM-33B Good evening everyone, i would like to share my first Town associated MOC: The HOTEL. It all started when i bought my first two modular sets; the 10211 and 10218. the massive look and the forms amazed me and inspired me to build. It is my first creation that is a house, don't judge too hard Sorry for the bad quality photos, also the 2nd floor still needs tiles and the stairs need a fix IMG_1110.jpg IMG_1114.jpg IMG_1116.jpg IMG_1120.jpg IMG_1122.jpg IMG_1124.jpg IMG_1127.jpg IMG_1129.jpg

i was confused by the fact there are only 3 liftarms in the set so by stupidity i have made it like this.. probably all point will go.. as for the part between the bent liftarm that hold the steering at the top there is a black part i just cant recognize it..

Wow.. i cant believe i screwed up in such obvious place like the steering instead of using a normal liftarm.. and at the rear with the L liftarms. the connector with the pin can be attached to the beam at the rear being connected to the rear wheels but there are 2 blue pins.. have no clue where the other 1 goes and does someone has an idea what part is used in the b model above the steering axle? seems like a blck technic bush but too smooth..

Yeah but according to B model pictures the set must contain 2 T liftarms and 1 light bluish gray liftarm 1 x 9 bent

It took me a couple hours for 2 days about the Technic links, iv'e mailed TechnicBricks about the fact that LDD removed this part. and therefore theres nothing to mount.. but if there was.. probably 3 minutes of work to mount it all

Great attempt! I have also participated in this challenge. i'm curious how did you attach the steering mechanism to the base? i did via light bluish gray liftarm 1 x 9 bent. here are some pictures, the build was very challenging and fun though the rear part was hrd to guess

What i ment is theese: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32013 that holds your steering arm.. if you try holding the wheel and run the steering you will se how this part slowly detaches from the axle (according to the 2nd pic)

Great work! I really like the chassis, good color combination Only theres a couple of thing i dont understand...: In the steering mechanism, the part that is connected to the steering arm can get get detached if the wheel will struggle to turn(unless you glued it)... still in my opinion in order to be sure it wont happen it will be better to replace it with a mechanism that wont be detached when pulling in the rack movement direction. Secondly: i think the cabin is too high in a propertion to the body, according the video.. Looking forward to the finished Truck

Hi. In my last project: an AH-64 i had pretty much the same problem with the top rotor. And although it seems nearly impossible to reduce the sound of the motor without changing the input current or voltage, i had an idea.. The mechanism is simple:adding rubber belt system, the trick is that it also reduces speed but it also gives the rotor its own acceleration because it is not depend on the motor (sorry my bad english)in a result the motor isnt struggling and giving less power and the whole mechanism will work more quietly(just an idea) in my AH-64 it worked like a charm. In the 4999(the gear mechanism that goes to the rotor) it has 3 reductions 12\20, 8\24, 8\24 just simply replace the 1st set of gears:12T and 20T or you can try replace everything with theese: in the axle which is connected to the motor put 2 of theese "bushes" http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4265c and the next axle put theese http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4185 And the smallest rubber belt: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x71 between... im not sure 100% that it will work on a vertical structure. but surely it is the easiest and cheapest way.

Technic cars means that in order to look good they need lots of panels and curving hoses ( bricks will make it not technic ) I cant really think of a car that will look good without the usage of panels and flex tubes .. (dont have any) so i guess i will skip this challenge BTW: Cant wait for the TRUCK challenge