nicjasno

The 8448 didn't bring nothing really new to the table, unlike every previous supercar generation before it. But yes, the modular build was nice. And it's something lego should have expanded upon.

I agree. This is also how cars/vehicles in general are made. You build a frame/chassis, and then attach the front/rear suspension bridge, drivetrain, bumbers, doors, interior... Right now it's all a blob, where you can't remove any part without dissasembilng half of the model.

The 8110 could have been so much better. Simpler, lighter, with better suspension. But at least there's my front suspension mod to alleviate the steering issue.

Let me limit this to "a" supercar. Any supercar. The purpose of each supercar in the past was to surpass its predecessor in the functions it had. The supercars were basically the flagship models of the technic line. This kinda changed with the 8448, which for the first time made a few staps back from the brilliant 8880 (still the best supercar imho). What i'd like to see, and what is entirely possible with the current crop of parts (aldough a better wheelhub and some 8448-esque rims would also be good) is realistic suspension geometry and interesting suspension designs. I'm really tired of the vanilla double wishbone setup we see in every lego supercar/offroader (except the live axles in the crawler and unimog). Also, we need car bodies that are stiffer, like the 8880. If you want the suspension to do its work, the car body must not twist like chewing gum. And as people before mentioned, we need different sizes of clutch gears, to make a realistic gearbox. And i'd also love to see a variation of the 8880 CV joint, so we could make proper front wheel or all wheel drive cars. I'd love to see a lego "hot hatch" with transverse engine, macpherson front suspension, multilink rear suspension, realistic gearbox and front wheel drive. If done properly, the parts count could be relatively low, thanks to panels. And the model could be awesome. This would also spark a whole new wave of mocs and would give people the appreciation on how their actual cars are made. Brakes are optional, since this is something, that is really hard to do without very specialised parts. I'm talking about brakes with actuall stopping power, not something that just increases the friction a bit. Looking forward to peoples thoughts on this. :)

DrJB: i was also talking about the vehicles that have a suspension to begin with. The new Green tow truck for example needs neither an engine nor suspension, since it's so full packed with features, that those would be overkill and would not really add to the model. But models, whose primary function is to be a model of a vehicle (jeep, supercar....) and have a suspension, the suspension design should be realistic.

The 8110 steering is the best example of a recent TLC design blunder. It killed all the fun with the model.

Erik: well said. DrJB: well, i say that because if you drive the car via HoG steering (something that i love to do with small models), the suspension is the first thing that you notice, since you are the engine, basically. And the suspension geometry is very much felt in this scenario.

To me, one of the basic functionalities of a vehicle is the suspension. :) Also i belive lego should try to get more realism in this regard is to make kids understand. Right now lego suspensions are the oposite of what you want to have, and this is also reflecting in many MOCs i see on the internet. A model with the right geometry also steers and drives better and is more fun to play with.

My specialty are vehicles/cars, and from that perspective i can say, that there's A LOT of room for improovement. Lego suspensions are boring. And it's time to make some interesting setups with realistic geometries. Cmon' LEGO, you can do it.

Dismantle and use the balljoints in suspensions :)

Crowkillers.. untill 2008 my workplace looked like this (yes, it's the same room and place):

I'm building with lego since i can remember basically, and i do not plan to stop. What drives me are not so much official sets, but the things that one can make out of it. This is also reason, why i don't hesistate to modify bricks.

LPEpower. Not much, but gets the job done. :)

I like all the 1984 technic sets :)

Or use a live axle.

A 4 stud setup gives actually less challenges. Everything is sturdier and you don't have to compromise everything in the differential to make the driving axles 3 studs high. Here's a few suggestions: https://www.dropbox....4yum/Q0B1TPKqQv Also, please use pulley wheels for the cv joints in the driveshafts. Everything else will break.

We should open up another thread for judging models by their cleverness then. :)

<lego nerd>The seat needs to have a 16t gear for the longitudinal adjustment, not a 24 tooth :) </lego nerd>

Imho... 8848, 8859, 8843 and many models in the 8889 idea book.

Badly engineered drivetrains melt bricks. Don't blame it on the motor.

Technic doesn't sell because licenses, but because of the awesomeness of the sets themselves. Sadly, for me, that has been lacking lately.

Your steering arms are not paralel to the wishbones and they are at an angle to the back. They need to be also paralel to the driving axle.

The width of the axle has no bearing on which links you use. You just widen the axle frame then. Or you use 9l links.

Of all the things... why did you put yellow spacers on the front axle? You want the pivot to be as close to the center of the wheel as possible. And especially with the 8448 rims, this can be achieved wonderfully. Also... you're not making your life easy, and you are overcomplicating very simple things. The rear axle should have a fixed wishbone on top, then 2 6l links with balljoints on each side and then a liftarm to provide longitudinal guidance, preferably as close to the wheel as possible and paralel to the wheel, not at an angle. It's very similar to how ford made the focus suspension: http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2013-ford-focus-st-suspension-walkaround.html

I did modify the gears, to get the ratios i needed. A differential had to give its 24tooth gear, a 20 tooth got a clutch inserted, a 12 tooth was glued to a clutch, and a nortmal 16 tooth clutch gear was used. :)