nicjasno

Have you tried the smaller ones?

Why not use proper leaf springs? Like i use here: https://www.dropbox....u4sy/C6u888pHF5

You mean a body like this one, where all the components realistically attach? More pics: https://www.dropbox....5ihu/QQE5TZq83a The e30 model from my youtube videos will also have a body like that. Probably covered in panels instead of plates though, to save weight.

I would if i could build them in bigger scale.

I want to go bigger, not smaller. I haven't bothered with trains so far, because of the small size. But if i can have a 12 wide train instead of 6 wide, this opens up a whole new dimension.

Has anybody seen this yet and does anyone know this user? http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?m=legotor That opens a whole new world of lego trains. I like trains, but the lego ones are just too small and don't allow much in terms of technic stuff and detail. What gauge is that anyway?

Where should we start....

Not in every scale. And not by my definition of stiffness :)

Both techniques have their place. Even in the same model. I found out that mechanical thibgs like engines, gearboxes and suspension/steering setups are best done studless, but if you want a stiff chassis you should make it out of studded parts. Studless chassis are very difficult to make stiff.

WD-40 isn't even a lubricant. It's a mineral oil based water dispersant and cleaning agent. The libricating properties are only temporary. For lego, a silicon spray lubricant, like the one i use (from cyclo, white/orange bottle) is the cleanest and best sollution.

Go ahead and lubricate lego with mineral oil... if you want to ruin your parts.... you lubricate with silcon based lubricants (preferable a spray lube), which is also clean and does lego parts good. The acids in the mineral oil destroy plastics. Also, i don't see a problem in your video. Unless you have a locking/limited slip diff, this behaviour is normal.

I must admit that i have been too lazy to make one :(

Too big and won't really hold torque. The body will start to fall apart.

Here:

Use my front axle sollution and you don't need to use a big motor to steer anymore. Car will also be more stable in terrain.

This is all well and good, but those diffs are way too big. I have experimented with such diffs (mine were smaller but still too big) http://www.nicjasno.com/image/tid/85 untill making myself a custom one. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/obplqdj8sya7c04/JLMFNNpG16 Both were used and tested in the LPEpower mustang (a 5kg car with a torquey V8 and big wheels). The small one performs much better than the big one. Also, the black gears are thick 12 tooth gears cut in half, because the teth on those are much more durable than on the small ones.

Some usefull tips: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2008/how-to-organize-your-lego-bricks-for-efficient-building/

By a "bit", how much longer are they? 1mm ? I haven't noticed a difference in length, just torsional rigidity. I have noticed this from the very beginning of LPEpower, about 2008, that the axles are of different rigidity.

No need to be carefull.

I put a 36 tooth gear on each end and twist. One feels solid and doesn't twist much, the other type is like chewing gum.

There's actually 2 types of 5.5 axles with stop. One uses a much harder plastic than the other. I test them always before putting them into engines. The ones with the softer plastic are immediately discarded.

No. That is not possible. But you should really sort them better.

It's already been decided. A VW chassis is too simple.

Blackbird: they basically made the steering links so long, to compensate. Now the steering and the road levers are about the same. Otherwise there would be too much unnecesary strain on the motors. They learned at least something from the unimog. :)

That and the fact that i have seen some MOC crawlers that are much much more impressive than this and probably work much better as crawlers.