Saberwing40k

Okay, firstly, Bugatti wheels are NOT the same as Porsche ones. They have pin connections instead of pinholes, like the Porsche rims, and would not be compatible with this model. Also, as for being too expensive, the Porsche rims are less expensive on Bricklink than the Bugatti ones, so I don't know what you're seeing there.

I don't think that works. If I recall, the PF receivers will actually bypass the switches. Sariel actually showed that you can daisy chain receivers by attaching the connector wire to the output of another receiver, and it will work no matter what. It's the first tip in this vid. It's cool, but can also be inconvenient.

So, you want a model where you can control the model remotely, or use a switch? I don't think that's actually possible with PF connectors. I may be wrong, though.

Wow, I'm amazed it's mostly dark gray. Modding it to be fully dark gray would be easy. I kind of have to wonder if somebody would do custom stickers to replicate USAF markings, I think that could be popular.

I would not do that. I'd use the hide tool instead.

That's... That's not really how this works. Sirslayer's design works well, for a small, manual model, but such principles would not work for a motorized model, particularly a high speed one. As a matter of fact, this setup would be terrible for a motorized model as an axle differential, because both clutches could slip, eating power. Your solution would be especially bad because of the fact that one wheel is always connected to the motor, whereas the other wheel is clutched, meaning that one wheel can slip, while the other one can't. Good luck driving that thing straight. Now, what a differential is supposed to do is average the speed of the two outputs, based on friction. Because of this, when one wheel slows down, the other speeds up. As long as both wheels have traction, you can not lose power, unlike with a clutch. There is a very good reason nobody uses this setup. Now, if you want to avoid gear slip, there are many ways to do this, including the new 28z or old 24z diffs, and using spur instead of bevel gears. That would make any connection much easier, especially if you use an RC motor.

1. Old 28z differentials are not meant to be used with 16z gears, so slipping is to be expected. I'd eliminate this entirely. 2. Yes, you are. My solution would be to use either separate receivers and battery boxes, or servo controlled switches. Buwizz or Sbrick would be helpful, but are not requirements. 2b. Since the tank is so large, I'd use a separate battery box for the turret. When I built a large tank, I need a battery box to counter balance the main gun. Now, for a large model like this, I would not use differentials in an adder configuration at all. This does not really solve any sort of real problems, and indeed introduces many new ones. I'd also do some gearing down to the XL motors. I think one problem you might be having is the fact that you don't have enough torque, and that is one reason your model was slow, the motors were overworked. Also, I'd be wary of doing anything with clutches and brakes. That, again just introduces complexity for no real gain. I'd just steer by stopping one or the other motors, like 8275 does. Now, if you were feeling fancy, you could go for a subtractor, but I have found that sometimes in a subtractor setup, you lose a lot of power because the differentials backdrive the steering motor instead of driving the vehicle forwards. Also, these notes can be helpful:http://www.gizmology.net/tracked.htm

Why did you need to bump a 10 year old thread just to add some negativity? I mean, you may not like Technic, but going out of your way to voice your dislike in this manner is not a good look. Also, more often than not, the Chinese branded Technic stuff are stolen from MOC creators, like some users of this site, so that's why it's so much better. I think your point is a lot more legitimate. Lately, I feel like Lego is dumbing down Techinc, to broaden the appeal, but I don't see the point in that, given how they have other lines to appeal to younger builders, and lots of advanced stuff, too. I don't think that Technic should be like Racers, which it sometimes seems like Lego is trying to turn it into. I do agree, since 2016, Lego has dropped the ball with Technic, a little bit. I mean, even last year, 42097 was a much better set than 42108, which is kind of bad.

Man, my expectations for this Charger are not high. I mean, it looks decent, at least from this angle, but the black car and dark photo make it difficult to tell. As for functions, I wouldn't be surprised if it only had steering, making it like one of the old Racers sets. Suspension is unlikely, at this scale, but a fake engine could be. So, it might end up being a $140 set with only two functions. I sure hope I'm wrong, though.

Wouldn't this configuration not work? I don't think it would. I'm pretty sure you need the differentials to properly transfer torque, but I could be wrong.

Now this is something worth reviving an old thread for. I thought about something like moving the locking mechanism out of the diff, and this does exactly that. However, your real enemy is torque, and figuring out how to manage that.

I have done exactly what you have described, for a trafficator. For one of my projects, I used mechanical turn signals, and I used a 2 switch assembly that sounds like what you need. You can see it in this .lxf file:https://bricksafe.com/files/Saberwing007/ideas/trafficator.lxf This has more to it, but it should be fairly easy to see what I did. I'd use a clutch gear to allow this to not impede the switching track.

Wow, this thread is kind of old, but Lego ultimately did release something that sounds very similar to one of the things that this person, just recently. The Dots line is widely considered to be like Clickits, but better, so that adds a degree of credence to this stuff. Not much, though.

3: 10 1: 6 9: 4 22: 3 19: 2 8: 1

Honestly, if you have buggy motors, you have plenty of torque. There is zero point in adding PU anything to this model, unless you just want to add extra weight for no reason. I have seen plenty of vehicles that use buggy motors that have no want for extra torque. Also, combining motors will average the speed, not add it, so by combining a fast and slow motor, you only get a motor that has speed in the middle. Also, if you really wanted torque, you should use regular PF XL motors instead, they have more torque than the PU equivalent.

My hopes are not high. Mercifully, this is NOT Fiero rocket car. Somebody indicated it was something classic and black, which tells us.. not a whole lot. I predict it will be a Racers style set, because that's what Lego wants Technic to be apparently.

I.... I'm not excited. The cab just looks wrong, and I feel almost as if the model is large for the sake of largeness. I'm going to wait to see more pictures, before further judgement, though.

This particular folding tower crane is self propelled, but there are towed versions. A number of companies do make them, including Liebherr and Spierings. Google Self Erecting Tower Crane, and that should give you more info.

I agree with you there. I dunno if Lego is willing or able to make improvements to the design of suspension and stuff to make a better set. I would think they would, but there might be enough people out there who don't care about the sets other than looks, so Lego might skimp out on functions.

Firstly, is Lego still doing the stupid thing where they're not allowing photos from the Nuremberg toy fair? I'd assume so, we have no images. Secondly, I'm not that excited. Seriously, the cement mixer has only 2 functions. Seriously, why is this a $100 set? The Osprey sounds kind of cool, but I don't see it being that interesting. The Volvo dumper again sounds cool, but while it does have the new differentials, it does not have the planetary hubs, which is a stupid and unrealistic move in my mind. This is like the crawler not including long shock absorbers. It's also more expensive than it needs to be, because Lego is just insistent on Powered Up being a good thing. Lego seems to have lost their way with Technic since 2016. Technic is not City. Technic is not Racers. Technic is Technic, and I do not like the way it is going. Also, I don't know about the Lamborghini.

I think 42108 got it mostly right. This Liebherr actually has a mostly gray/black chassis.

It's not strictly a necessity to block both sides of an axle, but for a heavy motorized creations, it can be a good idea. I'd do it if you have the space.

There are a good many aircraft that use this principle, like the F-4 Phantom. Even with the extra voltage and control system, I'd call this an achievement. It is a very brute force method of making Lego fly, though. I have to wonder, if you used a Buwizz, could you make a fully Lego glider?

The utter madman. He actually did it. I never thought that Lego motors and rotors could be used to make something fly.

1. I'd use Eneloops, myself. 2/A I'd build the set first and see what you like/dislike. 2/B The part in question is the sticker sheet. 2/C ?????? This question is really poorly worded. Hope this helps.