Lipko

3: 10 5: 6 16: 4 17: 3 13: 2 11: 1

Will you post the video of the finished model on youtube too?

A Technic set as a display set sounds stupid.

That's okay, make it optional, but include a controller device too. Nothing is more disapoining than buying a thing (as a present for examle) for quite a lot of money that's simply not working out of the box. (yup, it's also a bit annoying that batteries are not included, but they are cheap and easy to acquire, and usually there are a few of they lying around in a household at any time). And yes, there are people like me who don't want their kid to have a smartphone at the age of 9 but would buy such a complex model for them because they are able to build it, would love it and would learn a lot with it.

If I have to buy a smartphone just for operating this model, than I won't buy this model.

The timing wasn't perfect: Christmas holydays. I wanted to join, but I wanted to finish my too-long lasting project and also the aformentioned thing was too much.

Awesome models, congratulations! Though I miss HOG steering a bit.

This thing is huge, I really hope they don't use the old engine blocks.

I don't think it will have more than 4 gears, since it's operated with a rotation motion (crank+link) which means 4 evenly timed (more or less...) positions a clutch can have. More speeds always means a rotating selector drum or sliding selector beam with properly shaped tracks (like in Sheepo's models). Any we clearly see a crank with a steering link. But maybe it does something else? For example adjust the rear wing? I still believe that the paddles meant to be operated. For an indicator feature the current build seems to be too complicated and ugly, it actually ruins the look of the interior because it looks messy and very unproportional.

Probably because the axle length between the points is not an integer (whole number), and the father part of the CV joint have 1.5 module deep axle-hole.

The knob wheels cannot be directly connected, because that would mean a two direction movement, which is prevented by the red catch. The video shows that there's no hockey spring, just an orange 2L lever and yellow angle connector. I really think that this discussion should go in a separate thread.

The lower one is not a bracket, it doesn't have side holes.

Placing the 7x5 bracket will give you some hints too. And I think the ++ rubber pieces are pointing towards the rear of the car.

It's important to note that more orange elements can be seen on the photos, so what you see in the steering area might be just another orange part, not that spring thing. Plus an auto center steering in such a scale would make no sense. Real cars don't have it (excluding the suspension geometry), a manual model don't need it, an RC model will surely have a servo, and with such a huge weight and such big wheels, auto centering wouldn't work at all. Still, there might be a hockey spring, but it's used for the paddle shifting mechanism. I don't want to hijack the thread, I'm just too excited. Paddle shifting: allanp is right, there is something missing. In this state, it would need huge force to operate. But so much hassle for only an indicator feature?

This system will have quite some slack. I'm pretty sure that a frictionless gear selector is needed (my system also had 4 knob gears no CV and U-joints which add even more to the slack). EDIT: @John Daniels: a 2L liftarm has curvy edge so wouldn't work, an axle-bush connector would be too long or weak I guess. The changeover clutch would prevent the actuating beam from the paddle to rotate the knob gear backwards. This system is a bit strange, because you still have to combine two sequential one-way rotation to get the final output, that's going under the seat. Seems to be overkill for a simple paddle-shift mechanism (I, for one would be okay with a solution that actually uses one pendular paddle with end on the two sides of the steering wheel. Really too much hassle to get a perfectly realistic solution that IMHO doesn't add too much extra for an awesome feature).

Topic is going too fast. Anyway, my theory of a small part of the paddle shifting mechanism:

If you are right about how the sequential gearbox will work, I wonder how they will solve the rotation to gear switching mechanism (after working on a sequential gearbox for weeks, the hard part turned out to be that mechanism, not the sequencing mechanism). Will they solve it with 2L smooth connector with the old clutch part (I thought that it's hardly legal) or will they have new clutch parts? EDIT: the mechanism to the door seems to be only for adding some friction, as Victor says. EDIT2: the red changeover clutch is there for only letting the yellow knob wheel to rotate in one direction. So it's a part of the paddle shifting mechanism. I believe there's a simple 2L rubber piece (++ holes) on the bottom of the tan 4L axle with middle stop. The paddle seems to pull the yellow knob gear (a beam fades into the mechanism). Will make a pic soon.

Black new 3L clutch connector parts I see.

You are right, but that means extra slack. Anyway, I'm very curious hoe they solved it, maybe it is far from optimal. For example by ditching the fake engine and drive for the battery box, they freed up quite amount of place.

Maybe I misunderstood, but your solution seems to have most problems that other solutions have. -Slack (the teeth would fit quite well, but with low operation range, even a small slack would be scaled up). -Only front wheel steer would leave the rear steering free to move (you need to lock the rear simultaneously) -required wheels to be straight when mode switching -maybe not: no prevention to switch modes when the wheels are steered to extreme I have experimented with a similar setup for weeks (the two steering beam thing, which was also made by Efferman by the way, but he made it with gear racks). The only reliable solution (all 3 modes, minimal slack, no jamming during steering, no jamming during mode switch and preventing mode switch when steered) ended up too huge for the particular model. Just the mode switching of 3 modes themselves need 5 units of stroke: 4w - something to prevent desync - 2w - something to prevent desync - crab. Forget half modules (which would mean 2.5 module total stroke) as half beams will surely jam during steering. So you have 5 modules of stroke. EDIT2: sorry for my brain running amok, but I recalled that this stroke is also problematic because you don't have telescopic axles in that length, so either you have to re-route with extra gears (and extra slack, not to mention that you can't have the axles oriented in the same angle), or have a big telescopic assembly (for example with the new hubs). I also theorized a system that doesn't require straight wheels to switch modes, it would have been huge. Really, the easiest was to solve it is with electronics. 2 servos for each axle and a pole reverser (or go for fully RC and just two independently steerable axles). I have a smaller solution with just crab and 4 wheel modes with okay slack: it uses knob wheels and require only one module stroke. Though there is no desync prevention, but you can only switch mode if the wheels are steered to extreme (so it's much better than it would be with gears). Sorry for my English, it's late any I'm sleepy. EDIT: The 42054 seems to have 5-stroke mode switching too.

I hope the 16+ doesn't mean that too much tweaking is needed to make the model work. EDIT: I believe what we see under the left seat is the axle from the paddle shifter to the gear selecting mechanism. Captain obvious spoke. But I don't see how the paddles can be pulled/pushed, so I'm guessing it will be just some indicator feature. But let us hope that means either an awesome motorized shifting mechanism, or a new servo motor without angle limits.

If this has a fake engine (it probably does) that that means new engine block parts? I think the current parts would be quite off-scale.

I hope that will the case. I don't want to ruin something just to rebuild half of the thing and I don't want to pay extra attention for 12 hours either, so yup, I prefer the instruction-for-dummies version for such a huge model.

I'm very curious about the steering modes. I failed to make a reliable 3-mode steering in a similar scale model. Though there seems to be quite a bit of backlash between the axles.

So: sequential gearbox with shifting paddles at the steering wheel and probably a 2wd 4wd selector between the seats. HOLY SHH