Lipko

If all are pendular suspensions, then maybe you could just make one axle fixed for example the second, steered one. EDIT: okay, that is a bit stupid idea. Anyway, I don't see the details of the suspension, but yup, use extra hard absorbers. 4 kg is quite heavy.

He uses a CV joint too, so it should be okay geometrically, though the U-joint will have an unhealthy angle when steered to maximum (more extreme angle than it would have with the UJ being in the steering pivot). Also that part holding the wheel axle is not fixed so pretty much the U-joint rubbing to the hub will keep the vertical angle of the wheel. For these kind of problems (complicated and often fragile hub, shock absorber on the bottom arm which cannot be connected to the top arm, etc) I don't see why this advanced suspension geometry is needed at this scale. The slack of parts will have bigger effect that those nifty angles.

For reducing steering slack you could try double steering racks. Dunno how that would work with your Ackermann setup, but maybe it's worth a try.

That's pretty awesome for a first MOC! After designing some MOCs, I still wouldn't undertake a project like this. I straggle with a simple telehandler for 3 years now.

With the gearbox moved one stud up, the setup could be something like this: The most important thing is to put the engine input to the 24-teeth shaft. You can use opposite gearing at the differential (an save another gear with it), or opposite in before the engine. Whatever works better. With a well braced gearbox, even gearing-up at both points should work.

Oh, I see your gearbox is unusually low-placed. Anyway, the very first thing you should try is to connect the engine to the shaft with the 24-teeth gear, not the 8-teeth gear (I accidentally wrote 32-teeth in my previous post). That last gearing-up can be the cause of the jamming. And I still stand for my opinion that there is way too much 8-teeth gears there. Only one is absolutely needed. EDIT: if you place the gearbox one stud higher, than with 16-20 gear couples you could get rid of all the unnecessary 8-teeth gears. It may be worth to consider this trade-off (I guess you have a good reason why the gearbox is so low placed).

There are way too many 8-teeth gears. You seem to have sufficient longitudinal space to use axles with universal joints to connect the gearbox with the differential. Also, if you still have to have 8-teeth gears, make sure to secure them well, and from both sides. The fake engine is placed too high, you could also save some gears with better placing the engine. Aaand another thing: take the fake engine input from the shaft with the 32-teeth gear instead of the shaft with the 8-teeth gear. I hope that's understandable.

If we call that posable spoiler a function, then adjustable side mirrors too.

Ich spreche no deuchland, but https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/lego-an-und-verkauf/450788955-23-4070

My Audi DTM is on sale for only 1 Euro :( 1599-times worse model than the BMW.

The clutch gear is probably there for situations when two speeds is engaged at once: because of some jamming, or a not fully finished paddle stroke, or if it's switched during pushing around (accodingto my experience with similar setup, sometimes the next speed gets engaged a little before the other is fully disengaged. Pvdb could confirm if it's true with his Koenigsegg).

Yup, that dollar-euro thing is the whole basis of this arguing. So, will it be 300 euros or 300 dollars? Or maybe both of them is true? Maybe it's the concept and it the prize will be 300 Hungarian Forints in Hungary...

If I'm not mistaken, MOCs are expensive mostly because rare parts. The price is high for me because the Porsche has about the same number of parts as the Arocs (which had pneumatics) but more than 1.5 the prize. The absolute prize is something I never spent on a single set (once I bought 8110 and 9398 at the same time for about 300 Euros). However, those orange parts would be very useful for my parts collection and the chassis seems to be exciting. I'm waiting for reviews but probably I won't buy it. It's totally awesome but I'll let it go just like I did with 42009.

I agree about the price and I think I have to let it go since I'm not sure I can afford it for the low number of new parts. The new wheel is nice and seems to have proper offset, but too unique in shape. The chassis looks extremely exciting though, I'm all for color vomit that most of you hate so much. That chassis is a mess in the best sense. Edit: okay, stupid. Many parts in orange.

That new connector consoles be a bit. So making a reliable sequential gearbox is really not possible with the white 3L connectors and the new driving ring.

This is the reason why I don't like stacked beam builds, especially in chassis. Funny thing is that LDD is unforgiving with collisions, yet there are situations where it's much more forgiving with collisions than real building. There was a situation when something was easily accepted by LDD yet I didn't dare to try it in real life because I could see the two parts intersecting by quite an amount.

I prefer manual models because I can pose them (with the servo it's not possible with modern remote models) and I like to play with the steering, I like that I can just push away or put them back on the top of the cupboard without risking braking gears due to the stalling motors.

That's beautiful and looks well-built. I would love to see more pictures. For image posting, you should rather use an image hosting site and then just link the images here. for example Flickr or Brickshelf.

Builders make the rules themselves and the audience makes the rules themselves what they find impressive and what not. For me, Lego is a toy that's meant to be played with (so needs to be durable), and Lego is a system that has to be easy to assemble and disassemble by a child (no overcomplicated stuff or too much force required, also no cutting or anything that needs precise workmanship), Lego is about reproducibility (no "sculpting" or relying on loose parts and also I try to use current and not so rare parts). But that is just my opinion and usually I fail at some point of these rules. With beam stacking my biggest problem is that the overall height of stacked beams is not integral. So when it's braced in traverse direction (and I wouldn't leave it unbraced), gaps could be present randomly and the whole surface feels flimsy (I also failed with this one with the hot rod). Sorry for taking the thread off.

I agree and don't see why you say this to me. I know the stuff you build, I know the stuff Kevronista builds, etc. Maybe I'm biased, but in case of Technic, it's hard to ignore the supercar topic. And maybe my grandma also build supercars (and I definitely build them because they are easier to make than any other machines), still there is a finite and not so big number of really good car designs. And Francesco does build good looking models.

Have you tried my models? Anyway, I agree. But at least Francesco's Pagani doesn't use cut tubes. Though it's apparent from the vide that the model is fragile. My biggest gripe about some popular model is that they literally need sculpting. For example roof made of flex axles with beams slid onto them and the shape depends on the actual properties of the rubber.

Sometimes I'm surprised that some of these models are not known to everyone. I mean Francesco is the most iconic car builder to me and that Pagani is the best looking Lego car for me. Perfect balance between giving the shape, filling gaps and part usage (no filling gaps at whatever cost). The bodywork is pure art. And yet, it's not known to even experienced builders.

Wow, thanks for including me in the masters' list, I don't know how I earned this, maybe with the folding bike? Anyway, I almost always start digitally (Lego Digital Designer) but I prototype with real bricks very early and in small modules. So I switch between digital and real building often, and I usually switch when I get in a deadlock with something (and that happens frequently). And what Erik Leppen said. Parts from mostly new sets, sometimes bricklinking but only in my country because I'm a bit nervous about delivering and because I'm not allowed to give my workplace's address for this purpose. I also buy parts in some Lego shops (there are more and more of them but it's more expensive than Bricklink).

The model is up on Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/lipko/updated-simple-supercar