Krxlion

Am I seeing correctly, it offers two steering axles? :D I've seen this concept a while ago, but I don't remember who did it. I guess with your knowledge on programming those ESCs, you will manage creating great off-roader. Are you planning on implementing "electronic differential" or those wheels will spin all with the same speed?

Software and programming board - Yes. Firmware will be different for each type of the board. https://am32.ca/downloads You can see that there is plenty of firmwares. It would be best if you could check which one works with your am32 esc.

Hi guys, I have a question regarding 9,5L springs. I recently bought really cheap 4x original yellow Lego hard springs (they have "LEGO" logo, etc.). I have also bought their softer version, which is much easier to get. The issue, maybe more like a thought, is that they are not really 9,5L, but 9. I measured both types, and a few of each type with calipers, and my results are around 72-72.5mm, which is really slightly more or exactly 9 studs. If they would really be 9,5 studs long, they should measure around 76mm. What are your experience guys on this topic, I would like to here input from people that do have one of those bigger springs. What I am talking exactly about are: 95292c01 - hard yellow/black springs 95292c03 - soft dark gray springs

I have not, to be honest. Do you want me to run some tests on AM32?

I had the same experience with SurpassHobby 2838 BL motors, back when I was trying them. This is what I was talking about a long time ago, those motors feel like they have narrower range of speed. I have some tests on my private computer, but when I compared A2212 1000kv motor with 2838 (I believe 3200KV) from Surpass Hobby. The last was driving pretty slow, and the difference between low/max throttle much smaller compared to first motor. I was testing that on SurpassHobby ESC's, I still have two of them, but use no more, because now AM32 is in the game. ;) PS Sorry for not replying for quite a while. I was quite sick for two weeks.

Top-notch work, very detailed build. I love the mix of techic/system bricks (although I am too lazy to mix those often :D). The hidden compartment and battery inside is icing on a cake for me. One question, why is there round 2x2 bricks stacked in the axle to the rear? Is this to serve some purpose, or is it purely esthetical?

I know that we are getting slightly out of your topic, but wanted to share a small discovery. So you said that you don't like the way you need to double-tap to go reverse, etc. If you could replicate my settings from below, you can have cruising experience with instant reverse functionality. The key is to uncheck the "Complementary PWM", and uncheck of course "Car/Basher" function as it overrides "Settings" tab. I have sinusoidal startup checked, but It doesn't work without "Complementary PWM", so you probably can uncheck that as well. On top of that, I noticed that indeed "Running brake level" seems weird on 1 value. It makes my car *beep* sound significantly quieter, and sometimes if I open the program again it changes itself to 0 or 10 value (I don't remember which one was it, but definitely not 1). I might speak to Alka, but I also don't want to trouble this man so hard. I know he is probably busy. :D Oh, and the version I am running is 2.19 with "ramp" feature, but to be honest I couldn't find any benefits of moving around those sliders, but I might have not dig enough.

It overrides settings in the first tab, so it will for sure change how it starts (it is not a bug). I don't mind using reverse twice to change the direction where the model is going. It is far better for all the driveline parts that it would free-coast when you let go of the throttle instead of sudden stop. I am yet to find a sweet spot in the settings, and I think that I agree with you, Viktor that there might be a bug, but with the brake settings. So it is not only me that feel like this :D But on the other hand "running break level:1" is not enough free-coasting. If I for example 50% throttle and let go, I would assume it will slow down in about 3 seconds (similar to situation when you toggle Car/Basher mode on). I don't think, that it will be more visible with heavier model. With heavier model you usually have even more down-gearing, and then it stops even faster (my TRX-4 got "brake on stop" off, "running brake lvl:1", "stopped brake level:0" - as brake on stop is off, this one is on off too). I also think that planetary hubs really push this effect even further, stopping it more abruptly. With brick-built portal hubs(that I currently have in my model), I could see better free-coasting effect. I understand, but that's what I turned off. We cannot really "turn off" the running brake. And I believe as soon as we are pushing it to more free-coasting(closer to "1" value) the ESC have a problem with finding position of the motor, and thus creating cog effect. We cannot have both free-coasting and sine-startup, this is something that Alka - master and coder of AM32 software told me. That is why I was waiting and figuring out with him for a 3-4 months a code that will toggle "Car/Basher" setting once you for example push a button on a receiver responsible for channel 3 (for example). It didn't work, and he was busy, so I gave up on this idea.

Sorry, I thought I uploaded it correctly: It's last option "Car / Basher type braking double tap to reverse, overrides user settings" Try toggling it and give it a try.

In the ESC Config Tool, you also have an option to set AM32 to act as "regular" ESC: This setting is in "Input" tab. With enough gear down, this can offer promising results (low speed control, good torque). I am currently testing a model with two-speed gearbox and this setting on. The brushless motor feels like a brushed one, and on a first gear I have 50:1 gear down(including motor housing and driveline gearing), which is significant, but as I am aiming again both for crawling and cruising possibility the second gear offers 18:1 gear ratio. There might be a case where even on a low gear ESC will send wrong signals to the motor, but it is still up to testing, and you can try it yourself.

If you can smooth startup and have low speed control without sinusoidal startup then great, keep it that way. On top of that you should have "cruising" option, so when you let go of throttle it should more smoothly slow down, instead of doing it abruptly. - okay I Just read that you still have cogging effect, geardown for sure will help with that. I completely get rid of brake functionality in am32 software. I find that enough geardown can often make the model stay in one spot, even on a steep terrain. Running brake level is always on "1" value, this way It doesn't stop abruptly, but continously slow down.

Great job, Viktor. I already said few words under your YT video, so I will not double myself. I will just add few comments from my side. You don't need to make a separate topic. I would just change the title from WIP to MOC. You can reorganize the first entry, but it is up to you if your topic needs that. ;) Regarding cogging effect. The easiest way is to gear down, but I too sometimes feel like there is "jump" between sinusoidal startup and normal motor run. You can tune the behavior in ESC_Config_Tool, but as you don't have PC currently, maybe there is a way for you to do it through Wi-Fi. I didn't dig deep into this topic, but I saw people using the phone to change settings of AM32 device. As you have a model already built, you can adjust your settings to that model. I am not saying though you will have to do it every time you build a new model. ;) I need to do something similar with that "Camera holder" under the transmitter. I have a lightweight mirrorless digital camera, so I think I could give it a try. Thanks for the tip. ;)

This is all going in a very good direction. The body is very detailed, you didn't let only your motor shine, but the whole assembly looks promising. I am awaiting a video, to see your MOC in action. Take your time, and polish every aspect if there is a need. Great work, Viktor. As always you keep us with clever solutions and catchy models. ;)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but If I would use an ESC (electronic speed controller) to communicate with Lego motors - it can be done, using brushed ESC. Would I be still able to compete with you, guys? I could have a battery with lower voltage 2S - 8.4Volts. For steering, I can still use geek-servo or even Lego motor if needed. Anyway, this is just a wild question, with that low speed I don't mind using Bluetooth connection, as long there will be stable connection. We've seen though problems with that even when we were close to the models, track was small, etc. Maybe I will bring a new model in open class, maybe something like @gyenesvi built a while ago - Tim Cameron's Tyrant. Improve ground clearance, throw portal axles (or brick-built them) and who knows :D I am not saying that I will not try to compete with full regulations, just need some time to digest everything. :D

Recently, I have decided to mark this model as a finished one. I have competed against other members from Poland in LTTC (Lego Truck Trial Championship). The model wasn't prepared for the situation that unravelled there. The rocks, difficult terrain, still poor ground clearance, missing front lock differential, and several other factors damned me to not finish even one race. I will not complain that the competition was unfair, they have 6 wheels, bigger models, etc. It's not the point. The point is to learn from our mistakes, which hopefully I will, from the experience I gained there. I will for sure stick around the brushless topic, but I might go back to more pure electronic solutions. We will see. What I know is that in the next model I should: Improve ground clearance Expand space between front and rear axle (or even make it 6x6/8x8 - although I am not a fan of those designs) Keep the body even more minimalistic (I got stuck so many times by the car thresholds and other elements) Close front and rear differential (I believe permanent solution, would be best) Improve gearbox (or maybe get rid of it - although this is something I would like to still preserve) Here is the video, there are also some highlights of my model here and there. Thanks, and as always If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask them.

The low speed control is even better with this one, than with the AM32 I was guiding you to check out! I recently burned mine AM32 ESC (don't ask me how, haha), and I know what I will buy next :D The motor is so silent, I couldn't even hear it! I think it will suit bigger builds as well. Great showcase of your effort, Viktor!

This is becoming a very neat, small off-roader. One thing that I want to mention, is that it is much better for climbing purposes to have a battery on the front. I know that it is often very hard to do, especially in this scale. I don't say you should remodel it completely, but for a future projects, you might consider flipping the motor, so it's more on a rear side, then battery in the center (or as much to the front as you can do). Recently, I was building your Toyota Hilux chassis, but powered with BL setup and moved the motor to the back, so I can put a battery on the front and improve climbing performance.

Maybe trying to use planetary wheel hub to reduce rpms. Its not ideal way of reduction, but as a start it will work. I remember combining myself that method with same motor model, and using small plastic card part (take a look at my message before).

Really great motor, and this is your first try with 3d-printing! At first, I didn't know why you put that brushless motor housing, but then it made sense, to actually have additional mounting points. Did you need to maybe cut down the shaft length of the motor, to make sure it will fit into the planetary housing of the M motor? I think that those planetary housing can withstand a lot, you would probably crack gear/axle first, before anything inside it breaks (speaking from own experience :D). You can get them on Amazon, Aliexpress, you name it. ;) I would suggest buying conical screws. I don't know in what program you design 3d-printed case, but in Autodesk Fusion, you may design screw holes to match the angle of the screw (just make the hole slightly bigger 3.1mm or 3.2mm). The low speed control is looking insanely good. May I ask what happens when you push the throttle (about 50% of power) and then let it go (back to 0%). Does it shut down immediately? If yes, you may need to check the settings in AM32 configurator ("Running brake level" set it to 1 for example). It is also a really lucky situation that the pinion gear works well with M motor transmission, really lucky scenario. :D Does the gear from old motor also has 11 teeth? From XL motor it was 10 teeth If I recall correctly. If I can see correctly, all your 3d-printed pinion holes that are in the housing are half-stud, correct? I am looking forward to seeing a model with that motor equipped.

You are right, I didn't notice it at first that your steering links aren't parallel. This is actually really beneficial then, how does steering angle look like? In my case, when I use double-rack system I got slightly limited the angle, but when the car has turned wheels, they are indeed rock solid, no wobbling in the hub, but the dark bluish gray part in it moves slightly, but this is Lego, so I just live with that.

If you don't have any special tools, I would try this method (from @janssnet himself :D): I was actually using it 3 years ago, and it was working, but I was replacing this plastic "part" from time to time. PS You need a motor shaft to be in "D" shape, without it, it won't work.

https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008013717329.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.71.66df1c242HERVP&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol It does contain BEC - 5V, 2A. 5V for geek-servo is sufficient to steer even heavy models (around 2kg), but I think you know that. I would though resolder wiring in that ESC to slightly thicker wires (battery and motor wires). I bought a "donor" ESC just to have cables in correct lengths, and after some soldering it works like a charm - I have actually two modified units of AM32 like this. "Donor" ESC can be something like this (or you can try doing it yourself by using 16AWG cables, but you will need to solder banana and battery plugs): https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008888942406.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4.4c412dd6mWJJn6&aem_p4p_detail=202508201203467140171620404190002184323&algo_pvid=d5e83c85-badf-4ada-bcb5-b54b876f3416&algo_exp_id=d5e83c85-badf-4ada-bcb5-b54b876f3416-3&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"67"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!EUR!9.83!4.92!!!80.22!40.11!%40211b816617557166264967730e89ff!12000047090940261!sea!BE!820152058!X!1!0!n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A16217397%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=rrxK66i8mlGU&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005008888942406|_p_origin_prod%3A&search_p4p_id=202508201203467140171620404190002184323_2&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol PS I would also take USB configurator, just in case if you would like to try to mess around with configuration in the future. Although it is not necessary.

No problem, glad I could help you with your projects :) Currently I am using only that AM32 ESC, because it is as you said light, compact, and simply does the job. Low speed control is really beneficial in crawlers, so it is another plus. Your models really evolved throughout this time. Keep up the good work.

Thank you, what about the direction in which shocks are placed? I usually place them, so on top I have spring, but mostly I see them reversed, and I think that may change how suspension behaves (although I don't know if for good). I removed one soft shock, and now have 1 hard, 1 soft on each front wheel. They are indeed compressed about 1/3 of the travel, but I think to improve it even more, I would need to have positive caster angle. It would help approach various obstacles. The rear is solid axle with one hard shock on each side. It is stiff, but as the car moves, so does the "weight" of it to the back, I wouldn't change it to two soft shock with that amount of weight.

I don't think so, just take a look at a video below from @BatteryPoweredBricks: