m2fel

@Danil there is nothing wrong with the buwizz 3. The numbers are correct and there is nothing wrong with how it is described. I would rate the data for the battery as expert knowledge. Most people don't wanna know how it works but here u can look it up if you know how to read it. The data for the buwizz 2 on the homepage (indicates a 2000mAh battery) does not 100% match the actual battery (1900mAh) but for the user it hardly makes any difference and maybe they changed the supplier and the page wasn't updated. But also nothing to worry. @BrickTronic u can't just add up the capacity for the buwizz 3 only because there are three cells. At 11.1V it can deliver 880mA in one hour this 880mAh. To triple the capacity you would have to go from 3s1p to 1p3s. Then it could deliver 3*880mA in one hour at 3.7V. Charging of lipo and li Ion batteries is, if there is more than one cell, done with a balancer which is connected to each cell and checks the load (current) of each cell while charging. If one cell receives to much load it is broken. Also there is a special 'charging curve' which needs to be followed. The is done by a charger and the whole electrics for this is inside the buwizz.

@Toastie ur right. But they way it is written on the buwizz homepage it looks like a 1s configuration as they use 3.7V for their calculation. 2300mAh *3.7V = 8.5Wh not a 3s config as seen on the blue battery... Trying to quote I accidentally deleted parts of my last post with the two cells at 3.7V and 950mAh. This is annoying. Sorry

@Toastie u need to look at the c rating printed on the battery. Yours has 5c and 1900mAh which means it can provide 5*1900mA = 9.5A max. The blue on is also 5c but at 880mAh which means 4.4A max. Most probably the limiting factor are the other electronics in the buwizz to make sure not to fry our toys

That's interesting. And proves I was wrong as they use a 1s battery :) the blue battery is 3s1p which means three 3.7v cells which sum up to 11.1v (series connection) the silver battery has two 1s cell in parallel connection (1s2p) which ads up the capacity of the cell but the voltage stays 3.7V. Thus they need a step up converter for higher voltages. Bit if the blue battery is from a buwizz 3 this is a 3s lipo and on the homepage the data implies a 1s lipo. I am confused. Would like to have someone else to look at this as I only rushed through the data :/

Still does not make sense. The battery in the picture reads 880mAh and on the buwizz page it is 2300mAh. You also need to be more careful with units. mAh*V=mWh Why buwizz does the calculation with 3.7V (the value of one lipo cell) is strange to me. General the actual voltage of the battery is used like in the picture: 800mAh*11.1V=8.88Wh=8880mWh And I assume buwizz uses a 3s lipo battery at 11.1V

If you have a look at the video BrickTronic posted it is explained (German) that 4 ports have proportional control. It is possible to slowly speed up the L-motors and control the position of the servo. All motors are none Lego. But he claims that only the new? generation of those servos work proportional. For two ports there's only on/off possible.

This combo is used in the mould king 17006 and seems to work good.

Hey, the axles holding the upper side of the springs look like they are already bending without load. Maybe you can add liftarms as reenforcement or use shorter axles (move the mounting points closer together). The steering looks like inverse Ackerman. This will cause stress for the whole system and make driving bad. I might be wrong. Can anybody confirm this? But I am really curious how the nxt motors will perform as they should have plenty of torque :)

I was bugged by the same question once. Then I build a simple, small vehicle with rwd using nxt motors for driving and steering (ackermann). The steering (radius) really improved when the driving motors adjusted the speed whilst cornering compared each wheel going at the same speed. If the vehicle has ackermann steering the center point of the steering circle is easy to locate and then some math will give you the different wheel speed due to the different radii the inner and out wheel have to go.

Selling this at 5k € is marketing at its best. Creating attention and getting talked about to reach new customers. Nothing to blame. It's a really nice Lego RC car :)

Hey there, as I got some experience in plastic manufacturing I will try to sum my what might be the problem ;). Firstly it is not rocket science but you need people who are well trained, know what they are doing and listen to them. Designing the mold and running the machine are both important as a good design provides better results. During manufacturing the setting often needs adjustment. Important are temperature, clearance, flow path, pressure and more. There are companies who produce at much higher standards and cost than Lego. Back to the part :) If the machine is not properly controlled there might be distortion in the final part. For example if the cooling time is to short or the injection pressure was to low the part can fall out of the machine in perfekt shape but withing hours of cooling down the shape changes... As a conclusion I'd say Lego tries to save money. Could be a poorly trained worker, a great worker deemed to control to many machines or the demand to generate a high output (save time and money which hits quality). It is really not a problem to build good parts on good machines if you don't push it too much. Same issues as the part shape is valid for the color ;)

I'm gonna quote myself from the Bulldozer thread: Okay, I won't buy it and think it is to expensive but the decision about the price is up to Lego. If it sells badly and they are not making good money they might change something and maybe, just maybe change their pricing or stop making xxl-models. But only because we like technic Lego must not make things affordable... By the way I also would like to drive a Mercedes but they are to expensive :/

Okay, I won't buy it and think it is to expensive but the decision about the price is up to Lego. If it sells badly and they are not making good money they might change something and maybe, just maybe change their pricing or stop making xxl-models. But only because we like technic Lego must not make things affordable... By the way I also would like to drive a Mercedes but they are to expensive :/

I'd say that this set has the best solution for a RC Lego vehicle. Drive is powered directly thus should perform well and for the other functions there is a gearbox. To me this is a great combination and more technic like than 8285 or 42100 which had all functions driven by a single motor. And on top it's fixing the problem of 8043 for which the gearbox was at its limits or even beyond. I really like and own 8275 and 8043 and will get 42100 if I ever find a 2nd hand one for a decent price but often people complained about one motor for each function or the gearbox hardly being able to drive all functions -> problems solved, well done by the Lego designer

Steering followed by front axel geometry! Worst example is 8110. The force to steer is just stupid. Maybe caster and decent wheel pivot are to much to ask for after more than 40 years of technic :/

Still like the Dozer but won't buy it as, for me, it feels too expensive for a Lego toy. But am I the only one who is annoyed by the latest video and pictures? This ultra fancy place, no mess, bike at the wall which obviously was never used, books neatly piled up, of course an old camera and healthy plants ;). This looks as lifeless as an IKEA catalogue and just doesn't work for me.

This is a really nice one but sadly I am not willing to pay the price. Still use 8275 every now and then to push bricks around to load them with 42030 into random boxes to clear the floor :)

Why is it not suitable as drive motor and how is this related to rotating it by hand?

Hey there, my idea about using an airtank in 42128 :) I don't think an airtank is useful for this model. Why? Because, in my opinion, airtanks are only usefull when there are lot's of or long hoses which need a lot of air volume or the model has an electric compressor which has a small stroke. Models like 42043 or 8110 benefit a lot from the airtank as the functions are run with the valves, which is tricky, but can be really smooth with the big air volume (rather constant pressure) from an airtank. But I would play 42128 different. First set the function with the valve and then use the manuel pump to move the cylinder which allows fast and smoothish action due to the air volume each push provides. Also just push the pump slow for slow movement. yes, compressors run fast but in my experience the manual pumps have an advantage with the bigger volume. If I use airtanks I always try pump them up to the max before using a function

Great work! Is there a chance to get building instructions :)

Great model! @eric trax: I am asking myself if there are building technics or anything else which would stop Lego from making a b-model like this.

Hey, the shaking could also be due to a lack of weight on the front. This could cause losing ground contakt when passing imperfection (tire gets lifted and just wobbles around for a while) or the well known shimmy effect (had this on my own bike) which just means that the bike hits a resonance which can be amplified or boosted by hitting small obstacles on the ground. Both might be fixed with more weight on the front. It's just a guess but might be worth a try :)

Great and clever gearbox which is similarish to the solution used on the kran model of 8094 which had, as far as I remember, two function with one motor. Can your gearbox handle torque? Do the pivoting (swinging?) gears start skipping when torque is applied? I already have few ideas where I wanna try this :)

Hey Dorino, not sure if u read my reply to your steering issue in the Axel Collection Thread and can't write messages as I have to little posts. Thus this message. If u look at the proposal Efferman made he actually used this part to keep a half stud gap to the steering rack.

Hi there, long time reader first time poster. Will introduce myself later ;) When I saw the steering solution of Dorino I decided to register and reply :). What you are building is actually blocking the steering. The streeing rectangle changes to a parallelogram and thus the the steering racks get closer (hope my little drawing below explains it :). This pulls the rack in front against your parts holding it together. You should try to get in front of the racks with the axle fixation to avoid collision. -> To the axle streering cracks out there please correct me if I am wrong. regards m2fel