m2fel

Are those deep wheels which improve steering a lot? It looks like the tire doesn't roll around in the fender but, more or less, turns on a spot within the contact area between tire and road? The wishbone and steeringlink end inside the tire.

@Glaysche Thank you. This is exactly the starting point I was looking for! @LabManager Building a remote with a programmable joystick would be awesome but it looks way harder than building a remote using Pybricks. Thus I will go for hub to hub communication.

Hello! This is exactly what I'm looking for. I want to build a proportional remote out of bricks, including one hub and motors to run a vehicle (42124?). I scanned the Pybricks homepage and found some hints. Since this seems difficult for me, could someone point me to a place with finished instructions for a remote? I would rather build than force myself through code, trial and error, or start from scratch. It would be really appreciated!

Here are my thoughts on Lego remotes. PF was okayish for kids even though there was no proportional support Mindstorms was/is quite capable as remote but the documentation was poorish and the costs way to high App controlled remotes via Bluetooth are okayish but I really don't like the dependence on a smartphone where Apps can simply disappear or not supported by all devices - the LEGO Powered Up Technic Remote Control (88010) is a poor excuse for a remote (in my opinion) Lego should be able to provide a simple physical remote which supports proportional use but for some reasons they prefere not to and are successful. Maybe I am not the target audience... The community made some great stuff like python support or even better hardware like sbrick or buwizz. Which is niche but awesome :) I have two questions. It is possible to run the powerd up stuff with a gamepad but does anyone know of a Bluetooth pistolgrip- remote (like the ones used for RC cars) which could be used instead of a gamepad? Searching online I could not find anything. Maybe there are instructions for DIY somewhere? I believe it would be really nice to drive a little Lego RC car like this :) Is it possible to use an NXT brick to send commands to powerd up? I managed to build a NXT remote to run a vehicle with a NXT brick but that is where my skills end...

Hey russr, it is possible to use the ev3 software to code for the nxt. Looks and feels a little different but I actually prefer using the ev3 software and some bugs are also fixed :)

https://www.tesslabrobotics.com/downloads There are some driver available but I was not able to test them..

This is great The BWE 42055 with it's great b-model made me think about building a material separator / sorter site with machinery to extract gold pieces or black pieces (charcoal) from rock (grey pieces) or Lego balls from debris. Never made it beyond the concept in my head but this is pretty much it! Loader, excavator, separator, dump truck and conveyor. Everything RC or moving. Just awesome

Hello everyone, I would like to present my project: Lego NXT RC Karts. The idea was to build Lego RC Karts with a remote control that recognize the race track and respond to various inputs :) Originally, communication between the karts was also supposed to be possible. Unfortunately, the NXT master-slave-slave-slave combination was too slow for data exchange and therefore not feasible (the complete code was ready, but the response to inputs was much too slow). Then I switched to the remote control (master NXT), vehicle (slave NXT) option. I used the NXT Shooter as a basis and built two vehicles from it for testing. The vehicles each have two motors for propulsion, one motor for the shooter (useless but fun gimmick) and a color sensor to recognize the track. In one vehicle, the tracks are controlled individually and the other has separate steering and acceleration. The remote controls have two motors for steering and buttons for shooting and stopping the drive motors :) The color sensor detects the track beneath the vehicle. It distinguishes between the road surface (white, 80% power), red (braking strips, 60% power), green (boost, 100% power), and beside the track (neither white, red, nor green, 40% power). The track will consist of a paper roll (white) with obstacles (red areas) and boosts (green areas). It all works (hurray, took quite some time) Next, I'm going to build some fancier vehicles. I'm thinking of a tracked vehicle (similar to 42095) and a go-kart :) Programming was painfull and I had to start from very little knowledge. Many thanks to @Philo as I learned a lot from his spy bot and the related NXT programs. If there are requests for videos I might try my luck and learn where to upload and how to share those :P More Pictures of the vehicles, remotes and code can be found on Bricksafe. Names are Remote (Master: M1 or M2) vehicles (Slave: SM1 and SM2)

Some pictures of the tinkering. It's hard to explain and trial and error. I tried cardboard in different thicknesses and widths. It's all about pressing the right spot with the right force. I tried using a brick seperator to narrow down the required position. I even used a small screwdriver to poke on the cable. Overall, I wasn't particularly careful. I removed a battery to break the circuit when removing the display assembly, and only put it back in once the display pins were reconnected. Else I wasn't grounded and even used metal tools like the screwdriver. You have to make sure that the rubbery button cover fits back in place. Nothing more frustrating than the display works but you can't get the buttons in place and after fixing the cardboard the display is down again The pictures are just examples with one of the displays that is still defective. To get the cardboard under the circuit board, I took it out, and the cardboard between the circuit board and the display was pushed in there while installed and powerd.

@Ngoc Nguyen if it was clicking before adding the linear clutch, the internal clutch of the LAs were already skipping / clicking with one motor? If that was case, two motors won't make it any better as the LAs were not able to handle the weight of the arm proper with one motor, they won't be able to do it with two.

Once again Philo did it https://www.philohome.com/pfrec/coupling.htm Looking at the graphs it is not even close to doubling. More like 1.5 to 1.8 times the torque of one motor..

Yes. Mechanic, physics and math :) But you will loose some power to friction thus it won't double the torque but will be close enough and you have to make sure the energy source (battery) will be able to deliver enough energy

Maybe https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm ?

An update and what I've learned so far :) After some tinkering, I now have two NXT bricks with working displays :). Tried a lot of heat and melted the cable sheating but it didn't make any difference. What worked was squeezing some cardboard under the circiut board and between the circiut board and the display in different angles and thickness until it worked again. At least for one NXT Brick, the other kept flickerig or only worked for sevreral second. Then I had the idea that maybe a display of one of the dead NXTs still works. And one of the two displays only needed some cardboard squeezed in and was back alive. In the process I had to solder and unsolder speaker a few times due to clumsiness :/ Now one brick has sound and the other not... Yeah, I can live with that. Let's see how long the surgery will last. In the meantime I got my hands on the converter cable NXT to old 9V and this is magic. I figured out that a NXT motor can be run at a PF batterie box but a PF extension cable is needed as the 9V plug does not work with PF directly. Then I discovered that it is possible to connect a NXT motor to a PF IR receiver and use it with the normal or train remote. With the train remote it is even possible to control the speed of the NXT motor. I will get some PF plugs from Ali Express and replace the 9V ones at the NXT converter cable to avoid having to use extension cables. I still did not give up on the two dead NXT Bricks. Seaching the internet for information I stumbled across a PDF for the Lego Mindstorms NXT Hardware Development Kit which includes all wiring diagrams of the NXT Brick. Therefore, not all is lost yet. Next, I'll get started on building, as I had an idea as to why I dug out the NXTs in the first place. But I'm still angry at Lego as they sold really poor electronics, and while testing, I even found a defective PF M motor that hadn't been used for some time

Hello and thank you for your feedback. Heating the connector cable did not work. When I apply pressure to the connector cable in weird angles, the screen sometimes flickers, and once it worked perfectly fine for about 5 seconds :/ I will try the screen cloning tool, but I am quite disappointed that such a simple cable failure can render the NXT almost unusable :( There are still two NXT bricks that don't work at all. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look for on the circuit board? I'm going to visit a mobile phone repair shop. Maybe they can help with the connector cable. There's also a Repair Café nearby that opens once a month and they might be able to help me. I'd be happy if the bricks worked again. It's sad that they broke just because of their age and not because of abuse while playing :P