Jim

I seriously don't think it has anything to do with bandwidth.

If you are posting in 10 Facebook groups, there's a good chance that there are people who will see the same message 10 times. That's indeed quite annoying. So stick to the two Technic groups.

Let me reverse the question; why do want to reach out to each and everyone? Just post your content here and on one or two facebook groups. Problem solved (probably).

This is probably 1H?

42032 - Kompakt-Raupenlader 42033 - Action Raketenauto 42034 - Action Quad 42035 - Muldenkipper 42036 - Strassenmotorrad 42037 - Formula Off-Roader 42038 - Arktis-Kettenfahrzeug 42039 - Langstrecken-Rennwagen You are missing 42038 - Arctic Tracked Vehicle

Hi Paul, I wouldn't worry so much about it. When you post something here, you will find out soon enough whether people are interested in your topic. Not everybody will be interested, but that's only logical. What matters are the ones that do show some appreciation. I feel this is a bit like posting on Facebook. When I am posting the same useless stuff over and over people get annoyed. When I post useful content now and then, people tend to like it better. So by checking the response on your posting behavior you should be able to draw your own conclusion. And if you are posting is not in sync with forum rules, you also find out soon enough All things considered; there's a single person who has left you a negative comment, while there are several hundreds of not thousands here on EB (and FB). That's not a bad score Chin up and keep going about your business

Hi, Is this a list of rumored sets for 2015? If so, I will separate this info and start a new topic. Long Distance Race Car will probably utilize the new Batman tumbler wheels

Where's your beard?!

True! This probably depends on your JPG settings and internal JPG processing of the DSLR. I can only assume that a professional photographer won't shoot JPG if the quality of RAW would be significantly better.

The first line says it all "A big problem in 2008 is...". Personally I think the objections Ken raises are a bit outdated. Back in the days we used < 1 GB memory cards (okay probably more, but we couldn't buy a 32GB card for 50 euro). Same goes for hard drive space. Storage is not really a big issue anymore. Furthermore modern cams have the possibility of shooting RAW in multiple formats, so you are not restricted to the max resolution. I shoot max resolution RAW which results in a 26MB picture, but I can also choose to select smaller RAW formats. RAW is indeed slower than JPG but my cam still shoots 7 pics a second in full resolution. I do like these two arguments Ken is using: If you shoot hundreds or thousands of images in a day shoot JPG and don't worry. If you love to tweak your images one-by one and shoot less than about a hundred shots at a time than raw could be for you. He is right that RAW always needs software to be able to publish your pictures. On the other hand, most (digital) photographers do apply (minor) corrections to enhance their images, so they will be importing them into software anyway. And if you want to use your pictures right away, you can always use the RAW + JPG option. For me the versatility of RAW trumps every argument to use JPG. Especially with product photography. Disclaimer: I am by no means a professional photographer so it's just an amateur's opinion...possibly pro-am but no more than that

What cam are you using? What I forgot to mention is that I use RAW instead of JPG. This offers better options when editing in Lightroom or Photoshop. If there's an option to shoot RAW....use it. Although shooting RAW won't make up for everything of course.

That's a nice video Sounds like you took the logical approach. It's not very difficult. You simply need to know some basics and invest some time to experiment. This is actually my first DLSR so I don't have any prior experience either.

Congratulations to all of you! You can all be very proud of your achievements

This is one of the best looking super cars I have seen to date. Reminds me that I need to get an extra rechargeable battery and two or three extra PF LEDs, so I can start building this baby. Nice work Blakbird, and Brunokjj1 of course!

Cool! Glad to be of assistance. I recommend reading up on the three variables you use when shooting pictures, aperture, shutter speed and ISO level. That's basically all you need to you. But using Av with F18/F20 with ISO 100 will suffice for shooting LEGO. Let me know if you run into anything. I don't know your budget and whether you want to do more with the camera but the 700D is available in The Netherlands for around 500 euro with kit lens. I still recommend using the 350D, which perfectly fine for what you are trying to accomplish. You might want to consider the Nifty Fifty though. It's a cheap lens, but the IQ (image quality) is superb!

LoL

It looks tiny sitting next to you

Some of you have asked me about my photo studio setup. I had a little chatter with some members a while back, which might provide useful information for people writing reviews, shootings pics for contest, or shootings pics for fun. That's why I moved it to the Technic Forum. Disclaimer: I am by no means a professional photographer and I am only using DSLRs since December 2013, when I wrote my first two reviews: 42023 and 42024. Any hints, tips and modus operandi reflect my personal experience and opinion. Although I did read a lot of books when I starting shooting pictures with my DSLR. The first two reviews where shot with a 600D from a friend, while all my other reviews where shot with a 70D, which is my current camera. Equipment Get a white or grey backdrop (from hobby store or other PVC reseller) (7 euro) Get a tripod (25 euro) Get a remote (10 euro) The kit lens is okay but you might consider buying the Nifty Fifty (cheapest anon/Nikon lens, fixed 50mm focal length, 100 euro) Preferabluy get some daylight lamps (I am currently using two, price depends) Studio Place the backdrop somewhere that it curls up to the wall (so there's no hard bending edge visible) Make sure there's no other light coming in the room Turn on the light and try to spread the light instead of pointing it towards the model (I have both lamps pointed to the ceiling) Put the camera on the tripod Camera Setup Use Manual Focus Set camera to ISO 100 (important to avoid grainyness) Use AV mode and set the Aperture value to F20 (the higher the value, the more depth of field, but you will need a longer shutter time) Use automatic White Balance Use evaluative metering Set camera to remote shutter (drive mode) The fixed 50mm doesn't have zoom so I am moving the tripod, but when you use the kit lens, you can zoom in and zoom out. When shooting a picture the camera will automatically decide how long the shutter needs to be open, since you are using AV mode. Just press the button on the remote and you are good to go. AV-mode and F-stop Understanding the AV mode is very important. In your picture you notice the back of the crane is blurry. That's because you used a wider aperture. The wider the aperture (smaller F value, like F5.6) the smaller the Depth of Field. A smaller aperture (higher F value, like F20) will result in a larger depth of field (which means the things in the background will be sharp as well). By the way; f/22 results in a very deep depth of field. If your model isn't very big (there's not much depth in it) and there's probably some distance between the model and the camera (the closer the camera to the model, the more you need to be aware of the depth of field), so you probably don't need F/22. You can play with the F setting. Try to go to F/11 and see whether everything in your picture is still sharp. DOF (Depth of Field) Depth of Field (check the section with Selective Focus) Evaluative vs Spot Metering A DSLR can use different modes to meter the exposure. There's a real difference between spot metering and evaluative metering (not sure how Nikon designates them). Spot metering uses the center spot to calculate exposure while evaluative uses the big picture. My box images where over exposed because the spot the camera used was black. When I shot images of the model (which had a lot of white), the pictures got very dark. Now I use the entire scene to calculate exposure. It makes a lot of difference. Post Production To really get clear and crisp results, some post processing is mandatory. I use Lightroom because it's easy to use, yields great results and a license is around 100 bucks. When importing into Lightroom I have default settings to enhance the image and do lens correction etc. After that it's only cropping. Reviewer's Academy For those of you who are interested in writing reviews and improving your skills. Check out the Reviewer's Academy.

@TheItalianBrick: Check your PM. Let's end the "useful/useless" discussion and stay on topic. Thanks ZBLY for posting this technique

For example: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=99312

Not 100% sure, but I don't think you need to ask for replacement. Just call and say you want to order some parts. The bucket isn't in the part list on the website: https://service.lego.com/nl-nl/replacementparts#WhatBrickBuy/42030

You probably need to call customer service.

There's an inventory image in my review: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=96284 Click the image for a bigger version. Part number is 6015356. Or use Bricklink: http://www.bricklink...v.asp?S=42030-1 http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=11214 Part number 11214

LoL That's quite an oddball collection you've got there