2GodBDGlory

That is a super unique clock! Nice job! I like seeing the 24T crown gear being used effectively in there!

That's a very unusual differential! What advantages do you see with it?

That's a very nice model! Nothing too crazy, but nice simple looks and functions, put together well

Yep! It seems to work fine on Lego.com as well. The nice thing is that you have website-specific toggles, so it can be turned off where websites have a native dark mode, or where it causes problems. Huh, maybe I should try Firefox. Though there are some other Kiwi features I like!

I'm definitely happy to have the native dark mode option, but another very convenient option is just to install a browser extension that creates an automatic dark mode on websites. I use Dark Reader, and have been very happy with it. (Though I only know of one mobile browser [Kiwi Browser] that supports extensions like that)

The Ferrari returns!

Fun to have a tweaked UI, and all seems to be working well! One thing I noticed is that the (can't remember the official wording) moderator-assigned nicknames that certain people had been given under their names are no longer there. Is that something that will be re-added eventually? Also, and I think you mentioned something about these, but my special tags are now showing up in a vertical column instead of a horizontal row, which is a somewhat awkward look, I think. Thanks for your work!

@Milan?

Yeah, I was talking to my Mom about my choice of what to build in this contest, and I think I said something along the lines of, "I could build a clock, but the guy who literally wrote the book on Technic clocks has already started one, and I don't think I can compete with that!" It's really interesting to see the design without the pendulum!

Looks like a cool project!

Yeah, something like that would be perfect! You'd need to be able to toggle that behavior off, for times when you want to use a different spacing, but that wouldn't be hard to do by just turning off snaps when necessary

Let's see if this is the right topic to ask this question in: I'm starting to model a fairly complex Technic model in Stud.io, with the hope of making instructions eventually, so I'm hoping to make it a little higher quality than I have in the past. The issue is that I have lots of assemblies that are held in place by axles, meaning that they don't snap into place exactly. That means that if I later make a pin connection to them, it might be a millimeter off, and not snap correctly. So far I've been building and deleting little pin-based structures to constrain everything into place, and then deleting them, but this makes things a lot more complicated. Is there any kind of toggle to force axles to snap into stud grid placement? Thanks Let's see if this is the right topic to ask this question in: I'm starting to model a fairly complex Technic model in Stud.io, with the hope of making instructions eventually, so I'm hoping to make it a little higher quality than I have in the past. The issue is that I have lots of assemblies that are held in place by axles, meaning that they don't snap into place exactly. That means that if I later make a pin connection to them, it might be a millimeter off, and not snap correctly. So far I've been building and deleting little pin-based structures to constrain everything into place, and then deleting them, but this makes things a lot more complicated. Is there any kind of toggle to force axles to snap into stud grid placement? Thanks

Also, it's true that you only need one controller, but you will have to manually change channels all the time to control different functions, two at a time. If you want to control everything without changing channels, you'd want four controllers, though even just two could be nice, to have, say, one controller dedicated for drive/steering, and one for other functions as you change channels

I'd have to agree. I don't think we'd see a connector that is small enough to not be an impedance, and durable enough to last. Plus, integrated wires are more educational! I might have never learned to solder if I didn't have to fix my motors all the time!

The scale of that is really cool! Those are some seriously serious bearings! Would a series of standard 2L worm gears not work for the thread cutting feed? Or maybe the 32L axle that would limit you to just wouldn't be long enough. I was planning on using 2L worm gears for that on my lathe project, but before figuring out whether I could make it work or not, I realized that I don't actually have enough worm gears left over either way, so I think I'll have to leave thread cutting out of my model, unfortunately. (Actually, as I type this, I'm realizing there's another option. Instead of having a full-length worm gear, I could have a full-length rack with a standard worm gear that translates along it. It wouldn't be realistic, but it might be workable) I can't wait to see what comes of this!

PU LEDs have a pinhole in the splitter block? Somehow that slipped past me until now!

I'd say probably more on the truck/body-on-frame SUV side myself. They seem a lot more practical to be the only vehicle someone owns, they're more durable, they're easier to fix, and they're better in Canadian winters, though their fuel economy is likely a bit worse. Though I guess practicality is probably not part of your question! I'd still say 4x4s, though That's what I love with my '95 Geo Tracker (Suzuki Sidekick/Vitara)! Only a 1989 (the launch year) level of technology to go wrong, simple mechanicals, and plenty of space to work (Only an I-4 under the hood when foreign markets had room for a small V6, and then just the general non-cramped characteristics of longitudinal-engine, body-on-frame designs!

This new electronics system is interesting! I really, really can't see Lego using these motors in Technic sets, though, just due to their extremely studded body shells. Could studless motors with the same functionality come to Technic? That seems more possible, but I still don't think it too likely. Internal batteries for every motor would be seriously expensive for a non-educational set, and it seems like the whole ecosystem is too education/programming based to be an at all workable system for Technic sets. Still, it's interesting to see that Lego is developing new electronics! It would definitely seem that PU is ending its run, so it'll be interesting to see what replaces it.

That's pretty cool to integrate a speed governor like that! Bricksafe is also a great website for hosting Lego images

Or you could use parts 27940 or 22961 with support/blocking on the other side:

This should be cool to see!

Yeah, there's not any little arm to catch on the inside, as on the previous driving rings. Yeah, that's true. The solution from Rebrickable does look fairly workable, at least!

Hmm, that got me thinking of this design from @Gray Gear: His design is optimized for a 6-speed, but it's got a clever sliding part to automatically prevent the gearbox from having multiple gears engaged at once. Could that work in your case?

Thanks! One thing I wonder about is whether or not it would work to just set it up so that sliding those selector forks would require sliding an axle through an axlehole, just to add some friction. It shouldn't be hard to implement, but I guess the question is just whether that much friction would limit the fast shifting you're looking for. You could easily swap for the old style of 2L driving ring with its friction axle joiner (you'd also have to go to old 16T gears then), or new 3L rings, though. What advantage were you hoping to get from these new ones?

I'm pretty sure the Ducati did that because of the larger scale the engine was built to. Usually there's the three-stud spacing between the engine block pinholes and the driveshaft, but they wanted to make the engine look bigger on the Ducati, so they did a five-stud spacing. The issue then is that the normal 3L connecting rod part wouldn't be long enough, and I'm not sure there was any way to build one out of existing pieces. Obviously a new 5L connecting rod part would have been the better solution, but I can understand why they went the way they did. Though I suppose one other advantage to this design is that there's no longer any simulated cooling fins. Now we can finally build model water-cooled engines, I guess!