Mechbuilds

The steering system is pretty much 99% copied from @rm8's toyota FJ40. I just modified the track bar a little bit so it has a better flex for crawling.

Yeah i created the LDD file. It was pretty easy because i just copied the same moc i have here physically on my desk. @syclone I know what you mean, i tried that before but since the hood is very narrow, the technic guy will be sitting very close to the edge which will look funny. That's why i'm trying hard to put the motor to the back and have a 5 stud long space after the front so i can fit the technic guy there.

That's insane.. Amazing what lego technic can do.

Works fine for me and @syclone. Currently it's 11 studs between tires from left to right.. For rear tyre to front tyre, i guess around 18-22 studs? It's supposed to be a pickup truck with a big truck bed and a cabin for 2-3 technic sized figures. I don't mind if the XL engine is on the bed itself. But if it's possible to make so it's not then all the better.. The bed and cab needs to be about 13-15 studs wide perhaps. There is no exact model of car to copy from. This is purely just for some backyard trial truck fun and i'm planning on just having this one chassis and modifying the body work.. If the rear axle can be modular so it can be moved a stud or two easily then it would be awesome for the future. I've always built 90% complete models at best because making bodywork is hard.. Pickup truck has minimal body work and it's effective as is.

Incomplete LFX

Thanks for the tip @syclone! I have started to construct the mud guard frame a little bit. Still stuck with the interior + gear + engine mount stuff.. The suspension is very soft. (I have the LDD at the same point as in real life. )

Update: Still stuck on figuring out how to make the chair for the technic figures fit.. So far it's a constant battle on how to fit the XL motor + gears and the chair so the technic figures fit.. But on a positive note, the hood + front end is done. (I couldn't find the macaroni pieces on LDD so i used the 90 degree connector instead under the head lamps.) If i manage to finish this moc, i will release the LDD for free so everybody can make it. If anybody can help me with the seat + gears + motor then i can PM you the incomplete LDD..

Thanks for sharing @sirslayer I did check the axle collection thread before making this topic, the issue i have is bowing of the axle which causes stress to the parts over time. @rm8's toyota chassis seems to be a good choice for this build after some modifications. I'm trying to build myself that one truck that i wont disassemble. It needs to be perfect and highly modifiable. I kinda like those american style pickup trucks so why not make one. It needs to be RC, technic figure scale and to be able to do truck trial so it definitely needs a proper suspension. What i'm currently stuck on is figuring out how to put a chair immediately after the servo and still having enough room to build a gearbox behind it so i can mount the XL motor. I need the cabin to sit at least 2 technic figures but if a bench seat is possible then 3.

You are amazing @Madoca 1977! Thank you so much for making instructions!

Update: This is my current progress.. It might remind you of @rm8's toyota FJ40's front axle.. Well that's because it is. But i have modified the track rod under the servo to give it more flex for offroading. Now i need to figure out how to attach a chair for a technic figure scale and a gearbox and mount for an XL motor..

Update: I made the RM8's toyota FJ40's chassis and while i wait for the new version 2, i think i could try making a simple pickup truck.. I'm pretty disappointed in the poor steering radius of CV joints I think i'll opt for rear wheel drive american pickup truck so i can get better steering lock. I really like using lego wheel hubs instead of axles because the wheel is secured very tightly and won't fall off.. But for now, i want to go for as much steering radius as possible. Any ideas what kind of front axle should i go for? I will be using the same wheels as the 42043 arocs. What i'm looking for is: Axle width: 11 studs from tire to tire. Suspension: Live axle or independent for front axle and live axle for rear. Soft springs. Features: RC steering and drive. Maybe a winch perhaps. (I might go for gearbox operated so i can choose drive or winch.) Scale: Technic guy scale. What kind of front axle would be best in this build to get as much steering as possible on non driven front axle?

I would love to see a lego creation with a metal gas powered engine that's heat wrapped to prevent damage to the lego parts around it.

https://disney.fandom.com/wiki/Lizzie_(Cars) Lizzie is supposed to be a 1923 Ford Model T Also the front axle should be solid too. If you look at it from a quick glance, the most of the resemblance is there. The axles are inaccurate though.

Model T ford should have a solid rear axle and not independent. But otherwise nice moc.

@powerwindows83This is the post i was after. Thank you!

Torsen differential would be awesome.

This whole question is a just an thought.. If we would have one simple chassis. The test would be done to that one chassis only. With differential vs no differential. How would differentials affect it's performance. When i make my 4x4 crawlers. I always go with no diff but a 12 teeth + 20 teeth gear combo on both axles.. It can crawl rocks. Which is what i intend it to do. But when on a flat surface, the turning radius isn't that great and if i put weight on the model, it would love to push the front wheels forwards instead of turning. Putting a differential to the front axle would work because when climbing rocks, the rear wheels would still push the moc forwards. And the turning radius i assume would improve. But the question is, by how much? Whats the difference between no diffs to using diffs. How much improvement we are getting? To test it, it should be tested on one chassis so we get the most consistent results.

Has anybody done any studies how much having a locked or unlocked diff affects the turning circle? I'm thinking about 4x4 trial trucks.. Some go for 2-3 differentials and others specifically go for no differentials at all. If i have full lock on all diffs, hows the turning circle? How about locking only the rear and having the front with an open differential? Will the turning circle improve? If i have all open diffs everywhere, i should have the best turning circle? Will having a diff in the center added increase the turning circle even more? I'd love to see a test how much it improves. Basically having 3 diffs makes your 4x4 only one wheel drive when one wheel is lifted is what i've gathered. I have all my motors on my mocs so i can't test it myself right now. That's why i asked if anybody else has any info on it.

Man that thing is massive!

Man i love pics like these.. People should take pictures of the underneith of their car so when people are repairing them, they could see what they should be doing. What parts should be where.. How much room you have to add stuff ect...

That's awesome! If they're not insanely expensive. I'd like to get more technic figures.. I only have the purple and green cyborg dudes. Not really what you'd want to have in a construction machine or a 4x4 trial truck.

Interesting modules! Well done!

The excavators top half needs to have the turntable less centered and more to the front. That's how real excavators have it. The point is to have the weight of the excavator top half to be more at the back so when you extend the arm the whole way, the excavator won't tip.

It will need a lockable diff and heaps of power in order to make it drift.. Unless you're Takumi.

One of the most awesome pneumatic mocs ever. Really has the lego space vibe to it. Well done!