StudRobotics
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BMW vision M power
StudRobotics replied to 9 fingers's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Awesome! The exterior and interior is just perfect! It's sad that it doesn't move in third gear though. If you're having trouble with gearboxes like I did, use Sariel's 4-speed compact sequential. With a few modifications, the gearbox can be put in pretty much anything. You get to see it in action when my GX EV3 project gets posted pretty soon (it took me over 8 months to build it as well xD). -
I did that, but something bad happened to something in the gearbox. One of the rods pushed out so I torn the body apart and pushed it back in and made it stay with a peg and now the car works with the program perfectly. Thanks very much for the help!
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@TheMindGarage What should I change in my program to get the performance to be the best it can?
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Not really, but I found out that the motors in my GX EV3 peform better in IR Control mode than how they do in my program, and I believe that it is because the motor power is different. Each block in the EV3 programming software that moves the motors has a digit for how much power each motor should have. I'm wondering what this digit is in IR Control mode, because the motors act much better in this mode than how the do in the program. If anyone here knows the power of the motors when the EV3 brick is in this mode, please reply as soon as possible. It would be very appreciated.
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@Didumos69 Thanks for the advice, but I already fixed the issue. I had to switch the black gears as seen here. Before After The gearbox I used for this entire build is Sariel's 4-speed, which I highly recommend using because it's compact, lightweight, and durable. I just need to know which speed is which and change the programming for the EV3 brick a slight bit. Thanks for the help!
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I didn't expect this to get so much replies overnight, and I'm pretty overwhelmed by all of them. I'm going to try PorkyMonster's idea first before the others, and then maybe Void_S as well. I also can't replace the 8t gears. Thanks for the replies!
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I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
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The Technic Confessional
StudRobotics replied to Didumos69's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Those are some old Lego pieces you got there, @Didumos69. That's some crazy "Lego-illegal" modding you did to those pieces. I don't think I ever modded a Lego piece ever, but sometimes I use non-Lego material such as paper and cotton to make outfits and whatnot for my EV3 robots. Check out my old Dancing Santa Robot. -
Thanks for the help!
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I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
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No. I don't have enough pieces and I like building on a normal scale like on the project I'm working on right now.
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I guess you had no choice. I can never imagine a GT3 race car being very heavy. Is there any way to reduce the weight without ruining the look or no?
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I found out that the car has AWD. I don't think that there are AWD Aston Martin Vantages, and close to all GT3 cars have RWD. But I think it's to late to point this out.
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Agreed. Your welcome. Is there a copyright problem with quoting pictures or a different issue? Update: Found out that it clogs the page, as said on Milan's previous post.
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I agree that making the mirrors in black might be a good idea because you can make more realistic side view mirrors with black pieces since there are more of them than orange pieces. Also, am I the only one that thinks Aston really should have added rear bumper aero as great as the one in DugaldIC's build? Because I always loved those race car bottom aero knifelike... whatever you call them.
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Turns out it wasn't really the 8t gears that were causing the problem. I just had to do more reinforcing near the diffs and now I only get the clicking in the rear diff. Issue halfway through being solved!
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I can't wait to see what it will be like when it's finished! I think you should definitely change the name of the car though. To me, it looks like a Vantage GT3 or DBR9 with the Lego Technic treatment. Putting this on Lego Ideas would be a good idea too. I really want The Lego Group to consider this!
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I found a spot in the chassis that may have been causing the clicking. It's the two 8t gears that center the output of the gearbox. Should I buy some universal joints from BrickLink to center the output instead of the gears? I guarantee it would be better but I don't know whether it would stop the grinding in the differential or not.
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Thanks for the help. I'm still waiting for more responses, but I appreciate the help from you two!
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I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
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Correct! :)
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Good news: The chassis finally moves great without clicking thanks to using black gears in an area. (I'm going to keep the 8t gears though to center the input) Bad news: The gearbox sometimes has trouble shifting into first gear. Maybe I should only shift in one motor direction. Also, the clicking occurs rapidly whenever the car hits a wall. The steering is also a bit flimsy. In order to make this an okay on-dirt car, the clicking should only occur when a wheel stops, but I hope this doesn't ruin its 4x4 presence. Overall, I got just a little issues left to fix before I'm ready to program the EV3 brick.
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Guess what? I found an issue that might have been causing the clicking in the gearbox: One of the axels connecting to one of the driving rings has been pulled out, maybe that's where I need to reinforce. I found this issue when the gearbox couldn't shift right to first gear and got stuck in neutral.
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I am just astonished when looking at this Aston technic replica. It looks so real! How you managed to make the head lights and tail lights, along with the adjustable wing (but those mirrors should be improved) makes this look better than most of Sariel's creations! Maybe even more Lego-like than his Pagani Huayra!
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Nice, dude! I'll get straight to work on the gearbox right now. Thanks for all of the helpful replies!