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BurkusCircus

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by BurkusCircus

  1. Definitely go for 2x straights! I’d wait on 4x straights until you’ve developed 1/2x and 1/4x straights though, that seems like it could wait until you’ve got more momentum going, along with maybe 1.5x straights?
  2. I think the green one could be made by LEGO, but probably not the passenger one. Let’s not forget about that one train in the background of one of the City instruction manuals! I’m actually working on an observation car for that scheme based on that picture. Also I could see why someone could view this thread as useless, it’s been active for, what, five months? And it has only received actual information within the past couple weeks. However, I do enjoy the early-on ideal-line-up discussions.
  3. Wait, so are 5- or 7-car (including the motor) combinations possible? If so this could get mind-blowingly amazing really fast Definitely agree, this would have the best chance of becoming a set of any train-related one I have ever seen!
  4. This could end up matching the speculated 2018 passenger train very well! Looks absolutely fantastic!
  5. FWIW I received my order of Double and Half straights back around January of 2017. PF.
  6. Dang bro. That is absolutely stunning? Can this be the next Creator Set?
  7. If this could work, I'd buy it.
  8. Thanks for the quick reply. I won't have an interest in 9V, as I'm currently 100% PF. I have half and double ME Straights right now, but they have seemingly shut down. Were the issues for them just on the curves? Speaking of which, I have a question: In two corners of my layout, I have a turn pattern going R40 curve, Straight piece, R40 curve, R40 curve, Straight piece, R40 curve, creating a 90 degree turn. Would R56 or R72 be closer to this combination, as I'm not looking to redo my track. (This is going in-between Lionel 048 and 031 curves if that helps)
  9. @coaster : The message I'm getting from a combination of this thread and your website is that you are currently producing R104 and R120 track, will produce R56, R72, and R88 track next year, and will eventually produce Switches and X-switch tracks. This brings up 2 questions: 1) will you produce straight tracks (and which lengths?)? 2) what radius will the switches be? Edit: Also pictures look very promising!
  10. Re: Trains I'd expect a European-looking passenger (we haven't had a blue or yellow passenger train in a while, so...), a American-looking freight (Is an ALCO RS-1 possible? Maybe in grey), and another random set (maybe an American passenger train? Similar to Metra?). Add in a station (and maybe a grade crossing?)
  11. Heard of: Hogwarts Express, Chuggington, Wabash Cannonball, Big Thunder Mountain Railway, The Polar Express, The Little Engine That Could, The Little Red Caboose, The Silver Streak, The Caboose Who Got Loose Haven't heard of: Blaine the Mono, Von Ryan's Express, Tootle, 3:10 to Yuma, Galaxy Express 999, Overload, Charlie the Choo-Choo, The Darjeeling Limited, Driver Dan's Story Train, #731, Ivor the Engine, Sammy the Shunter Ones I have questions on: .007: James Bond? LoZ: Spirit Tracks: Legend of Zelda?
  12. Re: third rail. I actually love this idea because of what could be done with it. I run both Lego, ME Models (track), and Lionel O gauge. Thought I'd share my thoughts on a third rail. 1: With a third rail, you have half the pickup opportunities as using two, and it's very easy to stutter in regards to the pickup's connection. Right now I'm in my system's "Five Year roadblock" - every five years, everything is worn out and needs a mass cleaning. 2: This opens the door to operating accessories. And I don't mean like grade crossings using finicky color or motion sensors. I mean actually wired to the track, activated by the train. It would work like this. Cut the metal of one of the outer rails (use ME if it affects your Lego-only morals), and wire the now-dead section to the accessory. The train should need only one outer rail and the inner rail to run. When the train runs over the other, powered rail, the current will go up the wheel, across the axel, and down the other wheel, onto the dead rail, and power that rail. Then, if the accessory is wired to that rail, it will turn on, and a gate will go down, lights go on, turns on a station announcement, whatever you can image! And then it stays powered until either the train leaves the section or you turn the other rail off. 3: It ruins any realism you may be going for. While a new type of Hi-Rail (really detailed three-rail O Gauge) could come out of it, the much more realistic and likely result will be having it be seen as a toy. 4: It's less accurate. We have the only system that doesn't rely on track power (unless you still cling to 9V...). Think about it. Real trains have a fuel source, motor, and operating system all on board. While they get their operating signals from on-board currently, self-driving trains aren't that far-off. No other system has this. Real railroads (or, more accurately, GE and EMD) have to figure out how to fit a generator. We have to work around a battery box. Our struggles, while we would like for them to go away, are the most systematically correct struggles of all of model railroading. Embrace them. Either that or recognize I've gone crazy. ?
  13. That popping sound you heard? Yeah, that was my mind being blown.
  14. Nice build! Conveniently you cam double head them because BN merged with Santa Fe to make BNSF.
  15. I think one European-based and one North American-based third party track supplier would be easiest because of shipping, etc. So, BrickTracks for NA, 4DBrix for Europe, and ME goes out of business! Trixbrix merges with whoever they're based in the same region of.
  16. I think the more obvious solution to this may be a 2 2/3 stud long straight..... You also have to take the switch levers into account. By the looks of it above, they'll get in the way...
  17. Are you guys talking about ME Models or BrickTracks?
  18. Wow, beautiful moc. This brings back memories of my first train-A Lionel NYC Atlantic. Real nice set. Have a set like it and run it occasionally. Atlantics are beautiful engines. Nice passenger car too.
  19. And let's not all forget 7938, 7725, 10183, The Hogwarts Express...
  20. What do you means by 2 specialty curves? 2 radii that are still to be determined? If so or if not, I really think that R56 would be in a high demand, maybe even more so than R120, and not including it would be a big mistake. The gap between R40 & R104 is HUGE (74 STUDS!) and most people, such as myself, are either on the fence or not able/willing to back this because of the high cost of getting, at a minimum, 64 pieces of track (assuming you do half of a normal curve, degree wise) for R104-120, while 16 pieces for R56 more people are willing to commit. Still offer R104-120, but also add R56. Hope you understand my point, -Burkus PS: Dang that was a long run on sentence...
  21. 1: Burkus Circus of Brickerington 2: To build the best model railroad ever 3: Distance covered by said swallow divided by the time required for the swallow to reach such distance. 4: (You forgot "What's your favorite color?" I spit in your general direction!) Camouflage I've actually never seen all of Monty Python. Yes, I have a sad life...
  22. Yeah, they're bringing back the My Own Train theme, reproducing the Maersk, Metroliner, and Emerald Night, making a new Creator Expert Shinkenshen, and making a 2-6-4 that can be made into and Allegheny if you buy 2. If only...
  23. I don't know if it's still relevant but I prefer PF w/switches... Also can you do the next size up from R40 (R56 I believe)? That would be more beneficial imho to those who don't have ME Models or are willing to invest in R104 & 88/120 (also I just want R56 curves). Whens BrickWorld because I want to be the first one to preorder this!
  24. Your welcome.
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