SNIPE

rear axle , spoiler, exhaust done, to make my rear axle modular (for now) I had to make the end plate also be modular, but also redesign the exaust , but now it all works fine and my axle can be removed easily I made a v8 that uses the new engine pieces but with the old cylinders. I just need to find something that can cover the block since the cylinders extend past the block. ill add images shortly.

thx

aand we're off topic...

here the 4 inner pinholes and square hole would rotate independantly to the 3 pinholes on the beam but the problem now is how will they be thru pinholes when the otherside also has pinholes, but it rotates independantly. we cant have capped pinholes because the pins would need to go right the way to the end , if it was a capped pinhole the pin woud not go all the way in, if it was capped but the wall was moved out, then the part is slightly larger than 1L and so is useless. the square hole on the other side is a large round hole, so that beams that go thru it do not lock both half together in rotation. also ignore the chamfer, it wouldnt be like that on the real part. lego should have made: linear saftey clutches small turntables, rotation joints wheel hubs and anything else all use a standard connection that has no backlash! so you can swap stuff out . As for the 3d print design, I don't have a 3d printer but thx anyway, it would also require buying and super gluing in a ball bearing ring and 3d printed plastic is usually very weak. I guess one fix would be to just have 2 pins on both sides but now some parts won't fit right beside it anyway, another 2 useful parts:

This but where theres only 1 3L beam and you can't separate the halves, it would have a steel bearing ring around the inner outside which is thin though to still allow the part to have a central square hole but only on one side, the other side is round, unlike the 28 tooth turntable, which gets locked rotationally if you slide a beam thru the middle. Around the square hole will be 4 pinholes also. These may sound useless but are far from it. Maybe the bearing would just be part of the 2 halves, i.e the whole part is metal if the rollers in the bearing can't fit next to where the outer pinholes go then just put them in-between the pinholes , that way they can be bigger

Oh actually, I just figured out why my 1L bar with end stud would never be made by The Lego Group. because if you put it in the tube of a 2x2 or larger brick youll never got it out again

Belive it or not but they don't need much reduction unlike a ride height adjuter that uses worm gears spur gears, knob wheels and more spur gears Now I;m working on different rocker arms that don't squeeze the axle for the top of the shocks against the beams but also so that they keep the actuators angled towards the shocks as much as possible an not the diff, to save space for the M motor, same goes for how much the actuators extend, as little as possible is better.#

Cracked it, turns out 2 small linear actuators are strong enough after all!. Months of work has paid off AND the suspension still works at any rotation of the rocker arm (some technic designs have no suspension when the ride height is at the lowest). I'M BUZZING. Now to make 3 more and put them in the chassis, then onto the smaller gearbox (if my parts order arrives in time) BTW my supercar will use these, so if you don't want AWD and AWS in the P1 just remove the diff and gear rack then lock the wheels so that they don't steer. The linear actuators stil have space behind them to fit an M motor for some sort of function, the two sides will need to be braced together accross where the differential is. The ride height adjustment motor would be into the end of the actuator maybe with a 12:20 gear pair to increase the torque. It will also be using buwizz 3.0 ludicrous mode which may help the motors not stall, either M or L per front side, but on the same port, then same for rear side but on the next port: BUWIZZ 3.0 #1{ port A - front left ride height adjustment motor 1 , front right ride height adjustment motor 2 port B - rear left ride height adjustment motor 3 - rear right ride height adjustment motor 4 port C - front steering motor port D - front steering motor port E - undecided port F - undecided } BUWIZZ 3.0 #2 { port G - door left port H - door right port I - spoiler port J - gear shifting port K - drive motor (CADA buggy motor) port L - drive motor (CADA buggy motor) }

thx

I wonder if we get 22961 pinhole with 1L axle in yellow, the submarine has 1x1 beam in yellow (FINALLY!) 😃

Ok mr @astyanax https://bricksafe.com/files/snipe/42172-mods/20241202_230939.mp4 unfortunately it doesn't work very well so im trying a new idea but its nightmarishly hard, I've been at it for 14 hours straight but tomorrow I think I will make a breakthrough. feel free to improve this if you want. Ill make the digital model of it soon. my other idea is to use some sort of piece as a cam that also acts as a lever, the cam function prevents the shock from sagging but still allows it to compress. The cam rides on the bottom of the shock absorber just above the pinhole. I think the spring will have more clearance when I get the P1 suspension arms

Good amount of functions in a small set Good parts pack Unique set idea You kow what this set is? - it's good!

I think this is maybe the first time i've seen a flat4 engine in a lego set

oh

This set looks like it's around 5 years old.

Here we go: Lego URL: https://www.lego.com/en-pl/product/oracle-red-bull-racing-rb20-f1-car-42206 2 speed gearbox, engine with new engine block pices, new wishbones, suspension, steering, drive Go Nuts!

that's true for very short bars like the 1x1 tile round with bar on top, but it should be fine here. its why I had to cut my 6L rigid hoses slightly too short in order to make some 2L rigid hoses, and these work fine with normal pins as well as axle pins.

[5427] Curved panel 1L x 3L x 9L in yellow [42531] Wheel arch 2l x 3l x 9L in yellow [60483] Beam 1L x 1L x 2L with axle hole in yellow [?????] Comma panel 1L x 2L x 5L in yellow [5404] Slope 1L x 2P x 2L in yellow [5093] Slope Curved with Stud Notch Right 2L x 2L x 1B in yellow [2395] Panel #9 1L x 2L x 3L in yellow [2403] Panel #10 1L x 2L x 3L in yellow [32580] flex axle 7L in yellow

I was thinking of wanting lego to make a 2L fric pin but with a stud on one end (and NO stopper) but I think a stud with a 1L bar under it would be even more useful because it would work with: friction pins frictionless pins friction axle pins frictionless axle pins pin block connectors (before lego made the pins have square holes 😡) studs with bar holes any part with an axlehole *WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO* and so much more. But the bar would have to be like 1mm shorter than 1L because axle pins are funny, so it would not sit fllush with their barholes.

Not sure how this relates to this set, but the 42172 mclaren P1's gearbox worked quite differently to previous lego car gearboxes. I wonder why they didnt use the orange changeover drum in this set instead of the medium azure one

some recolors, nothing really useful

I wonder if we will get the other panels in inverted form as well as more gearbox speeds in future

ugh same 3+R gearbox