SNIPE

I prefer side notches too IMO, I think all hollow tubes should accept a mini-peg (but most do not in reality), not a huge deal but LEGO is meant to be a system remember, and could do with some more foresight in places. I'm not sure about having all studs semi/fully hollow , it would add a whole level of building possibility which is indeed very good, but studded models would look bad. However most lego sets are tiled off anyhow! its not like the old days. You can sometimes just fill an open stud with a 3L bar but I wish lego would make a (just slightly less than) 2L bar so that I don't have to cut doen rigid hoses. The reason I said just less than 2L is because some pins (and other parts) have barholes that are not quite 1L deep.

Sure, go for it! My solution was to use this, this or this. The minifig utensil ring felt a bit tight when rotating the axle so it may be a hair too wide. Unfortunately the shock absorbers are not fitting on the real wishnones (damn) but they fitted fone on the replica wishbones, so now I have to do a complete redesign of the ride height aduster, suspens, steering and diff assembly 😡. But, we got an improved stepper mechanism in a B model moc of this set so maybe we can add that to the P1. Not sure if the gearbox in the MOC is better too.

Long shot but does anyone have scans in a pdf or a official pdf file of set C61508w and/or c61507w. If not I'll have to wait until they're uploaded on the yourwobb library in Google drive.

Nice to see older projects still being active

Loving these 2 new parts, the 5L axle joiner will also be able to be used to connect up 1.5L of excess axle where as a 2L axle joiner could only go on the end because of its center stop. Yes you could use a small CV joint but that had a male axle on one end, and the female half has a 1.5L axle hole without friction, and it hinged. Like this, as a single example: This has only 0.5L of the axle inserted weather you use the top axle joiner configuration or the bottom axle joiner configuration.

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RC mod: I would like to combine this mod with thirdwigg's mods , I have 2 of those micro motors already, one for cabin tilt, the other for the tipper, but i still want 2 differentials so ill need to repositon one of the micro motors. I will use a spike prime small angular motor for steering and maybe a control+ L motor for drive with a buwizz 3.0

yes, only part that would fit over the end is the 45590 rubber 2L beam with 2 axleholes.

Here are the part ID's: 12 tooth clutch gear: 3590 16 tooth clutch gear 18946 20 tooth clutch spur gear 81346 24 tooth clutch gear 2471 orange wave selector (from bugatti) 35188 clutch ring extension (newer mould) 35186 2L drive ring (newer mould) 2473 4L differential with 24 teeth 6573 45 degree knob wheel 5405 barraki eye 58176

I wonder if these new tan 12 tooth gears are compatible with the Daytona yellow gears 22 tooth and 14 tooth. Also, I'm stoked to see this piece being used for something other than as a minifig accessory AND with technic pieces! Shame lego didn't give it any anti studs (yes I own these pieces)

I wonder if we move the actuator slightly if we can have another differential?

hi, I recently bought 12 of the new 16 tooth idler clutch gears from pick a brick and have many of the other new gearbox pieces too including all gear sizes either idler or normal. However I think the old orange changeover catches are more compact, used in conjunction with the knob wheels, 45 degree knob wheels and some barraki eyes. The fairly new 2L clutch rings can be placed next to 16 tooth gears with out it rubbing against it, and we have new flip flop connectors, axle 3L with pinhole and flipflop beams. (ill add links to part ID's soon) The gearbox doesn't need built in neutral or reverse. However it must have a centre differential. It will be connected to a flappy paddle gearbox, engine, DNR selector, and axle. Can anyone point me in the right direction

Only downside is I don't see any pinhole with axle connectors in yellow Otherwise, very tidy set - will buy. EDIT: I also wonder if the color inconsistency for yellow has been fixed, the pinhole with pin connectors were slightly translucent and a lighter yellow then other yellow lego pieces.

Ah I see now, yeah I'm flad its 8L and that those towball beams are in black

Sorry, I don't understand.

#17 and #18 panels It also looks like the new links are 8L or 9L but unlike the current 9L links, have a open hole for the ball joints *yippee*. They are also of the axle type, like the twisted 6L, 6L and the old 6L links. Here's 2 of them next to a 7L liftarm: I can't seem to see the new 2L beam with 2 pinholes and offset axle 2L on the side. I thought it would be in this set in yellow since it comes in yellow.

Finally 2x511 panels in YELLOW

Thx, I'll build this in a few days when I'm not buried with other lego projects

I decided to do the same mod that another user did in this thread by using the new-ish bike wheels with a half pin hole and glued on tyre to make rings around the headlights. Only problem is the half pin hole is too big for the bar so they be a little misaligned but they tend to center up well enough. I could use a tiny piece of pneumatic hose around the bar to help with that but they come in trans clear so it would look ugly and I'm busy dismantling my 42177 since nobody seems to be nodding it and theres not as much space to as the land rover even though the chassis is less dense on the Mercedes. The land rover mods still continue on my end however

Solid work. I think the bigger wheels work better.

Are those LEGO VIDYO rubber straps , around the spare wheel? Genius idea, genius idea. EDIT: Oh, maybe they're the LEGO DOTS bracelets instead.

here should work To convert .io to ldr, just open the .io file in a tool such as winrar and extract the model.ldr If it's the old .io file header it will want an extraction password, but it's the same for all .io files and is: soho0909

Agreed. I hope C+ gets the wireless motors but on the other hand, they still ultimately need an external hub to control them. On the other hand who wants to have to buy yet more new motors when we have barley been with C+ that much (2019) , power functions lasted from 2007 till 2019!, I even just bough a few spike prime small angular motors and CADA micro motors, these parts are very expensive, and so it would suck to have to buy these lego "wireless" motors. I dislike how we have to use this combi-hub because how on earth are we supposed to have so much variety in motorized models like we did with PF and current C+ when the motors are built into the hub, yes you could I suppose just use gears and axles but that's not a good solution for several things. Like, what about friction, structural strength, size and shape constraints, or what if we need more than 2 motorized features... where oh were is the fecking SYSTEM!!!!

Ok, here's the actual review:

oops.. must have been tired when I posted this