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SNIPE

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by SNIPE

  1. I meant they are rare in white, but the 'r' connector is new in white, it came in bright green initially
  2. White 'r' connectors and white pulley wheel thin, LBG rubber bands: in set 21357 Disney Pixar Luxo Jr.
  3. 42110 42128 42043 42083/42115 42009 just barely wins out over 8258
  4. biscuit joints in blue found (I'll stop with the "I predicted it" jokes now :P) I also tried again (since a few weeks ago) to convert the brickset .CSV file so that stubborn dimwitted rebrickable understands it but it just complains and removed parts, and then you'll probably use a parts list not a custom list, and so it won't tell you if you have the parts or not, or enough of them. I was contemplating building a replica of this set, but the fact I only have 1 of the spike prime castor beams and no ball parts that fit into it, plus rebrickable's shenanigans made me change my mind.
  5. Someone already started a live build of this set: I predict that the new 4L double sided CV joint is in black hey I was right 😄 I also predict that we get these plastic balls in black, the same part that came in the Liebherr LR1300 crane hey I was right again!
  6. I meant internal stops, surely you can;t just push an axle all the way through? if so then well, that has its uses, but wont it also mean the axles can push each other out ,if there's an axle on both sides of the part?
  7. So what you're saying is there's a 1L wide stop in the part, kinda like a 3L axle joiner, rather than a "0L stop" in something like the 2L axle joiner? I would have preferred 4L friction-less+1L friction-ed to be honest
  8. Ah yeah I actually wanted to use the DBG versions but couldn't be bothered to find what the set they came in was.
  9. I love the large dalmation set but I will try to convert the joints into the new reinforced click joints that came in set 76968 (unless theres a more appropriate solution), The aim is more posability while still being rigid.
  10. Yes, but I don't have any of the UCS creator expert bat-mobile tires so I'm using these. I'm also using 4 smaller buckets to make the new bucket tha's in this set.
  11. I just put together the real parts to build this, I have like 98% of them, so can't wait to start building it
  12. I wish it used odd units at least for the widths of the parts, because it fits better into studless technic but is still good at fitting into system/studful (i.e "classic") technic
  13. it would have made more sense to just have (years ago) a 1L axle with stop and male cv joint, then using axle joiners you can make any length you want from 4L or higher. And just make the female variant a 2L axle , not a 1.5L axle with 0.5L centre stop. Now we have a load of parts that could just be made from what I just said...
  14. This new robotics system seriously has me worried and its not even the watermelon color scheme... They're supposed to have wireless motors and maybe sensors yet theres this hideous spider looking cable hub, The sizes of the parts is also huge and their connections are not great to say the least... I don't know why people would buy this (and it will be overpriced)...
  15. I'm gonna try to give it 4WD and shocks all round but the engine may or may not take up too much space. I could make the crankshaft out of three 2853 to save space. The front will be pendular too unless these new links and CV joints can make a small enough fully independent suspension system. (I can also use the rims from set 10295 to save 1L either side. Are the new CV joints reinforced or classic?
  16. Looks like this part is replacing part 42610, at least it comes in way more colors according to newelementary
  17. Its probably just a reflection or a bad image editing error
  18. I know this can be done programmatically, but it would be good if there was a mechanical switch that keeps the turntable rotation constant while the skid steering works, you can sort of do it with a multi lever remote but that's not perfect and takes a little practice (except this model is single motor and has no driven tracks anyhow by the looks of it)
  19. WHY OH WHY did they not just use a RED stud-pin! they come in red, but they used a dark bluish gray stud-pin! (near the tail-light, connected to a red tile1x1 round with bar & peghole
  20. Awesome, I still hope these new gears gears work with these gears:
  21. that new 'y' connector will also be in tan, in set 10348: :
  22. I prefer side notches too IMO, I think all hollow tubes should accept a mini-peg (but most do not in reality), not a huge deal but LEGO is meant to be a system remember, and could do with some more foresight in places. I'm not sure about having all studs semi/fully hollow , it would add a whole level of building possibility which is indeed very good, but studded models would look bad. However most lego sets are tiled off anyhow! its not like the old days. You can sometimes just fill an open stud with a 3L bar but I wish lego would make a (just slightly less than) 2L bar so that I don't have to cut doen rigid hoses. The reason I said just less than 2L is because some pins (and other parts) have barholes that are not quite 1L deep.
  23. Sure, go for it! My solution was to use this, this or this. The minifig utensil ring felt a bit tight when rotating the axle so it may be a hair too wide. Unfortunately the shock absorbers are not fitting on the real wishnones (damn) but they fitted fone on the replica wishbones, so now I have to do a complete redesign of the ride height aduster, suspens, steering and diff assembly 😡. But, we got an improved stepper mechanism in a B model moc of this set so maybe we can add that to the P1. Not sure if the gearbox in the MOC is better too.
  24. Long shot but does anyone have scans in a pdf or a official pdf file of set C61508w and/or c61507w. If not I'll have to wait until they're uploaded on the yourwobb library in Google drive.
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