SNIPE

Yes, however the newer mold is too loose to fit a bar in, which is useful with axle pins if you want 2 levers with a 1L gap between them but where they are independently movable, so I usually just always grab the older mold just incase. This may have been mentioned but there's also a 1x1 round plate with a clip on the bottom coming out very soon.

Everything fitting together is the whole philosophy of LEGO... What's so stupid about my last reply anyhow, there's no good way to build diagonally in a neat way using LEGO because you either have gaps or have to hide stuff that sticks out or that doesn't make a flush edge under more parts (which you can't always do) If you wanna be a fanboy then that's not my problem, I like LEGO but that's not to say they don't make mistakes

I'll take a look. Anyhow, THIS is what I have in mind: (proof of concept. the road and sidewalks would be wider in my real city) yellow are 11.25 degree slopes, they have 1 clutch under them. they make up the road Dark bluish gray is the road also, Light blush gray is the sidewalks. Here I made a angled junction but you can do so much cool stuff with this theoretical piece. thanks to @Philo for making this part and fast! EDIT, I reuploaded the images using bricksafe for the previous replies

Thx all.

It's back together! The paddle shifter still isn't working but i'll have to rip it out again later anyhow.....

It is still in lego geometry... you're just making the lip (which already does not line up with tiles anyhow) slightly larger so that these slopes can make diagonals without the shingle effect. It just means that the diagonals angle is different, because otherwise the highest point of the slope would not be able to be flush with tiles (which all lego slopes alredy are, just not on the fronts) As I just said already, you make the tiles easier to remove yet still eliminate the bottom groove. Now heres a problem I have too, its not a huge deal but usually is if theres a large gap: This is fine for these slopes to have the gap but LEGO , as I mentioned should make specical parts that are 45, 22.5 and 11.25 degrees (because these all can still add up to 90 , 180 270 or 360 degrees and make them have bo bottom lip or have the bottom grooves, and make all 4 sides diagonals so that you don't get these gaps like in the above image. Yes wedge plates and other slopes now would be weird when put against these new parts, but thats because lego gave slopes the half plate lip, and because they made (except or 45 degree wedge bricks/plates/tiles) have angles that do not add up to 90,180,,270,or 360 degrees. Parts like that would be invaluable because you can make cities that have all sorts of anglad roads, or angled streets Since they can add up to 90/180/270/360 degrees you can still build normally on the ends of them, Modulex slopes got close to this but sadly it was never done in LEGO parts

Again, totally un-neccesary, this is the 4x1 version of the 6x1 shown in my original post. having 0 or 1 plate lips does not make the part worse in any way. And tiles + slopes should not have the groove on the underside to make them "easier to remove" They should just instead use a different plastic that has slightly less friction than the old tiles without bottom groove or something like that. LEGO asthetic is nowdays is 2024 not 1994

And weirdly, this 8x6 slope works fine when making non shingled diagonals (IIRC) unless LDCAD has the part wrong, I only have 1 of the 8x6 slopes so its hard to test.

This part came out last year... TLG needs to make parts that can make different shaped roads in a flexable manner, not just right angles. and even have inclined and declined roads, the parts should be as flexable as possible in what they can do.

I said half plate not half brick, and the other studless slopes work just fine, as shown in the above image I just added (but I dont know if they line up with tiles with the diagonal cutout so I would have to I guess make the sidewalks use slopes on their side as well :) but raise them by a brick or half a brick which is more challenging but oh well. LEGO is all about having a system where parts can connect with other parts, and this is hardly a weird thing im trying to do. OK maybe I am mistaken (I got impatient) in that its a half brick offset but the fact that there is still a lip there doesnt change anything, when using half plate offsets can make smooth diagonals with no "shingling" infact LEGO could even have slopes with no lip and still ditch the rounded corners, as this 6x1 slope has no counded corners unlike a cheese slope. of the new studless 2x1 slope

This is wrong in 2 ways because stupid LEGO didn't bother testing the part properly: Had they properly tested this part as well as the 2x1 and 4x1 versions of these studless slopes they would have noticed that you can"t use half plate offsets like you can with other studless slopes to have the diagonal bit flush and not "shingled" (now I've wasted money on a part that I can no longer use to make diagonal roads) But also theres a hideous gap between the brack and snot brick. WHY CAN'T THEY JUST MAKE A 1X1 SLOPE WITH A FULL PLATE LIP ON THE BOTTOM IN 2 OR 3 DIFFERENT ANGLES so that they are the same angles as wedge plates, you can therefore have SNOT SLOPES and clamp them in with non SNOT wedge plates for the sidewalks and not have to deal with half plate trickery and even then they are not at the same angle as any wedge plate.

I have LDCAD with a custom rotation (0.5 LDU) however it is a major pain in the megablocks, im not sure if MLCAD would be much better. LDCAD is buggy when you try to force it to rotate at like 0.01 increments as it starts to rotate the part in axis which you didnt tell it to be rotated in I'm so done with this , this is REDICULOUS.

Hi, I am trying to align some tiles with some slopes in bricklink studio, however even though I have the smallest grid stepping selected, when I move the part, it either collides with the other part or it has a gap between the two parts. I have tried turning on/off collision and snapping but no luck This will also mean I need to finley rotate the parts as they are very slightly not at the same angle, and therefore when I make the road longer the gap will also become longer. Hope someone can help soon, thx!

LEGO should stop mucking about and make all pins have BAR HOLES So, make new parts with unique part IDs for: 15461 , 87082 , 2393 , 55615 , 15100 , 6558 and 32054 Also despite newelementry and lego.com saying pick-a-brickhas normal service everywhere except for canada/USA my pick a brick order is very delayed, anyone else having this problem?

Nice idea, I wanted to do this with the icons pac-man arcade, so that its more realistic in that you can play it like you do on a real arcade machine, I wanted to add a motor and be able to move pacman and so on and so forth and without making the model much larger than the original lego icons set.

I was going to suggest using this part as an exaust but i later realized that it only comes in trans clear and is a rare-ish/old part Maybe there's something else that can be used. Also, for some crazy unknown reason, the flappy paddle shifter was not shifting but I tested the gearbox before building any further and it shifted fine then, so now I had to take the engine, gearbox, paddle shifter, and a bunch of small structural assemblies out of the chassis :( and I still don't know where I went wrong... nor am I particularly enthusiastic about having to reassemble it all and then continuing with the front axle and dashboard...

the motor is definitely control+ and so is the battery box I would say, it's just not the c+ Bluetooth hub.

of course it is

@Ngoc Nguyen will you be doing 42145?

2 new parts in set 60445 Formula 1 Truck with RB20 & AMR24 F1 Cars

I think I built it correctly yes also I forgot to mention, nice work @astyanax especially using that wall hanger frame on page 424, I have 8 of these and seldom use them so someone finally put them in a model

Progress: LEGO are late (as usual) with the bestseller parts order from pick-a-brick...

cool, ill build this because I dont have the real set but have lots of red panels Unfortuntley everything except for the P1 rims were on pick a brick. Here is what rebrickable says I'm missing: However I know for a fact that I have all of these parts too (idk why rebrickable does this) except for maybe the white pins with diagonal clip and the rims, so for now i'll use the daytona rims.

Oh so the conrods are not new but adapted using a '1x1 round plate with hollow stud' and a 'bar with ball joint', fair enough. I think 72008 is new in DBG or are those just thin 1x2 beams in the rear swing arm?

The engine idea sucked so ive put that on hold as ive wasted too much time on it and need to build the gearbox however, it seems the 2025 ducatti has conrods that interface the new crank-cams with the older cylinders, abd the 2025 f1 cars have new engine block pieces. Heres the build so far: As previously mentioned , the shocks and wishbones are in the mail as well as black 2pin connector blocks and other parts. I think the axle may need to be lowered by 1L because the wishbones are not as angled down now. Its a hard balance between: having suspension travel but not having the wheels rub against the arches but also not having too much ride height but also having as little travel in the linear actuators as possible to maximize space but also because its better if they bottom out instead of having to add limiters to the rockers (which I did but that was just a consequence of having to mount the bushes this way, but make the wishbones not rub against the springs , so the shocks must be as close to the vertical beam structure as possible. but make the actuators not pivot much because the gear rack would then be limited more in how far it can slide but also if the actuators dont pivot there's more space for other stuff to go. and a load of other stuff...like if the wishbones were angled down too much the steering would be stiff and hardly have much range of motion So, it was a challange but I think I got it working :)