SNIPE

I just put together the real parts to build this, I have like 98% of them, so can't wait to start building it

I wish it used odd units at least for the widths of the parts, because it fits better into studless technic but is still good at fitting into system/studful (i.e "classic") technic

it would have made more sense to just have (years ago) a 1L axle with stop and male cv joint, then using axle joiners you can make any length you want from 4L or higher. And just make the female variant a 2L axle , not a 1.5L axle with 0.5L centre stop. Now we have a load of parts that could just be made from what I just said...

This new robotics system seriously has me worried and its not even the watermelon color scheme... They're supposed to have wireless motors and maybe sensors yet theres this hideous spider looking cable hub, The sizes of the parts is also huge and their connections are not great to say the least... I don't know why people would buy this (and it will be overpriced)...

I'm gonna try to give it 4WD and shocks all round but the engine may or may not take up too much space. I could make the crankshaft out of three 2853 to save space. The front will be pendular too unless these new links and CV joints can make a small enough fully independent suspension system. (I can also use the rims from set 10295 to save 1L either side. Are the new CV joints reinforced or classic?

Looks like this part is replacing part 42610, at least it comes in way more colors according to newelementary

Its probably just a reflection or a bad image editing error

I know this can be done programmatically, but it would be good if there was a mechanical switch that keeps the turntable rotation constant while the skid steering works, you can sort of do it with a multi lever remote but that's not perfect and takes a little practice (except this model is single motor and has no driven tracks anyhow by the looks of it)

WHY OH WHY did they not just use a RED stud-pin! they come in red, but they used a dark bluish gray stud-pin! (near the tail-light, connected to a red tile1x1 round with bar & peghole

technic 2h 2025 images are out;

Awesome, I still hope these new gears gears work with these gears:

that new 'y' connector will also be in tan, in set 10348: :

I prefer side notches too IMO, I think all hollow tubes should accept a mini-peg (but most do not in reality), not a huge deal but LEGO is meant to be a system remember, and could do with some more foresight in places. I'm not sure about having all studs semi/fully hollow , it would add a whole level of building possibility which is indeed very good, but studded models would look bad. However most lego sets are tiled off anyhow! its not like the old days. You can sometimes just fill an open stud with a 3L bar but I wish lego would make a (just slightly less than) 2L bar so that I don't have to cut doen rigid hoses. The reason I said just less than 2L is because some pins (and other parts) have barholes that are not quite 1L deep.

Sure, go for it! My solution was to use this, this or this. The minifig utensil ring felt a bit tight when rotating the axle so it may be a hair too wide. Unfortunately the shock absorbers are not fitting on the real wishnones (damn) but they fitted fone on the replica wishbones, so now I have to do a complete redesign of the ride height aduster, suspens, steering and diff assembly 😡. But, we got an improved stepper mechanism in a B model moc of this set so maybe we can add that to the P1. Not sure if the gearbox in the MOC is better too.

Long shot but does anyone have scans in a pdf or a official pdf file of set C61508w and/or c61507w. If not I'll have to wait until they're uploaded on the yourwobb library in Google drive.

Nice to see older projects still being active

Loving these 2 new parts, the 5L axle joiner will also be able to be used to connect up 1.5L of excess axle where as a 2L axle joiner could only go on the end because of its center stop. Yes you could use a small CV joint but that had a male axle on one end, and the female half has a 1.5L axle hole without friction, and it hinged. Like this, as a single example: This has only 0.5L of the axle inserted weather you use the top axle joiner configuration or the bottom axle joiner configuration.

It says the image could not be found.

RC mod: I would like to combine this mod with thirdwigg's mods , I have 2 of those micro motors already, one for cabin tilt, the other for the tipper, but i still want 2 differentials so ill need to repositon one of the micro motors. I will use a spike prime small angular motor for steering and maybe a control+ L motor for drive with a buwizz 3.0

yes, only part that would fit over the end is the 45590 rubber 2L beam with 2 axleholes.

Here are the part ID's: 12 tooth clutch gear: 3590 16 tooth clutch gear 18946 20 tooth clutch spur gear 81346 24 tooth clutch gear 2471 orange wave selector (from bugatti) 35188 clutch ring extension (newer mould) 35186 2L drive ring (newer mould) 2473 4L differential with 24 teeth 6573 45 degree knob wheel 5405 barraki eye 58176

I wonder if these new tan 12 tooth gears are compatible with the Daytona yellow gears 22 tooth and 14 tooth. Also, I'm stoked to see this piece being used for something other than as a minifig accessory AND with technic pieces! Shame lego didn't give it any anti studs (yes I own these pieces)

I wonder if we move the actuator slightly if we can have another differential?

hi, I recently bought 12 of the new 16 tooth idler clutch gears from pick a brick and have many of the other new gearbox pieces too including all gear sizes either idler or normal. However I think the old orange changeover catches are more compact, used in conjunction with the knob wheels, 45 degree knob wheels and some barraki eyes. The fairly new 2L clutch rings can be placed next to 16 tooth gears with out it rubbing against it, and we have new flip flop connectors, axle 3L with pinhole and flipflop beams. (ill add links to part ID's soon) The gearbox doesn't need built in neutral or reverse. However it must have a centre differential. It will be connected to a flappy paddle gearbox, engine, DNR selector, and axle. Can anyone point me in the right direction

Only downside is I don't see any pinhole with axle connectors in yellow Otherwise, very tidy set - will buy. EDIT: I also wonder if the color inconsistency for yellow has been fixed, the pinhole with pin connectors were slightly translucent and a lighter yellow then other yellow lego pieces.