SNIPE

Well. 2 or 3 L radius depending on if your counting the center hole as 1L 5L is the most I've been able to fit in them.

its the only way to have a compact 5/6+ speed gearbox using normal clutch rings. it acts like an idler in some speeds and like a normal gear in other speeds which lets me combine speeds to get more speeds! if that makes sense. For example I could add 1st gear and 3rd gear to get compound train output. Normally the gearbox would just jam but the clutch gear allows it to work. The transmission is 3x5x7 in dimension. i'm using a weak clutch gear, but all 3 strengths still work.

You can still select the L R or both axles using just the red clutch, the 20 tooth gears mesh to the corresponding axle joiner depending on where the input and output is, In some cases you'd need the 16 tooth gears. Regards, S

Hi, I'm thinking about powering my latest 42029 mod, it is currently using 1 PF L motor, however the rotation is jerky and it is struggling a little which wears the batteries down so - Should I use a PF XL motor, or a torquier and slim EV3 motor? It needs to drive a gearbox which has a lot of gears plus a white clutch gear (5 speeds or more), and the winch and loading bed and the functions gearbox. An external return to center mechanism ,small as it can be is still probably too big so I'm using a PF servo motor for the steering, all motors are then connected to a normal 8881 PF battery box. So any ideas?

Hi when a PM conversation reaches a new page it stops sending alerts for new messages Is this normal and wouldn't conversations be better all on one page?. Regards, S

Hi Being able to side the selector ring between two axle joiners sounds quite hard as the notches have to line up and one will always be spinning even in neutral. The 16 tooth gears are not really needed if you don't want neutral, so it would be quite small then which is good. Cool idea though.

Hi Yes, I managed to reduce the vibration caused from the white clutch, maintain enough of the torque try building the last picture I posted if you want to see it work as that is the working model iv'e tried using an 8+24-24-8 compound train but it loses too much torque and is very slow in one of the gears.

Here is the LXF Regards, Snipe

Oh the black end is the input, green is output I've made it way smaller now, it is now 1x5x7 excluding the length/height of the gears. The white clutch is close and on the same axle as the motor too. i'll buy some type 1 white clutches as those are weaker than type 2 or 3. I believe they only came in early lego education sets though so getting the right type from brick-link is going to be hard so I might just stick to the one I'm using. it is ok and ill post a video of it working soon along with LXF files. I tried white clutches in a similar thread to this but could not get it to work and that had a third gear train instead of combining A and B into a compound train. As always, i'm using an L motor.

Ive did it! The middle position is 1st as it's fastest. the gear box 5x7x7 but I'm busy trying to make it smaller. An L or XL motor is recommended for drive. The gap in the middle is so I can see what the gears are for the middle axle. There are 3 axles in parallel and two in linear (for the clutch ring.) I also have another version with another set of 8+24 gears rather than a 12 to 20 train but it is not as strong and a lot of torque is lost. How I could make a 6 speed gearbox using only two red clutch rings if I wanted bur first like I mentioned ill try and make this one smaller. Regards, Snipe.

I've built it but it just spins both grey gears always, the middle position is neutral I've tried using a different ratio instead of a second white clutch gear, so now its 16c:8:8 and the other is 16c:24 the 24 clutch gear inner part is not being used at all. but I'm getting two speeds by the middle position is again just neutral. When I say 16c here I mean 16 clutch.

Never mind, it only works for gears that are unmeshed. So kinda useless.

Nope no neutral needed Sorry, forgot to mention that

Hi, Is there some way (using a clutch ring) to have 3 speeds however 3rd is where the clutch ring is in the middle position and it is engaging 1ST and 2ND at the same time so for example EG: 1ST = 1.667:1 & 2ND = 3:1 so 3rd = 5.001:1 [1.667 x 3]). This is a single output single input gearbox. I don't know what else to say really but I cannot seem to get it to work. I multiplied because it will assumably be a compound gear train. Regards, S

Hi Just connect two 24T gears up and put ball joints in a pinhole of the gears. Connect the ball joints with a link, the link, a link can be made longer easily would be needed. I got it working but one gear reverses at a certain point as my links were the wrong length. Also you click on the axle through the gear when you wanna use the hinge tool to rotate the gear.

I can help make the model as simple as I think it needs to be, This will save weight and give more space for other things Obviously we should test it out in real life too for strengh, handling, etc.

Nice job! I've tried to make an alto-saxophone using bionicle type ball joints but gave up. It was almost 1:1 scale but it's just to advanced to do in lego.

The UV joints don't fit with a 3L axle. I can't think of a way to have 5L steering arms. I'm using the shortest possible suspention arms because I don't want the wheels to be sticking out too much. The steering arms are as close as I think I can get it in terms of their angle.

Yeah I've made the parts as tight as possible The wheels have friction pins that connect to the disk brake, 6 per wheel The suspension arms are connected to the chassis using 3L friction pins as frictionless had a lot of slack Etc I might add bricks inside of the tire if it helps balance the wheels better.

Ball joints also move by one another too lets say you have two parallel arms both with ball joints, if you hinge one ball joint the other automatically moves too. good for testing steering but I guess it could be used for things like gears too.

Does the tire sit over the turntables?

The steering arm is almost the same vertical angle as the suspension arms and it is almost parallel to the suspension arm. I could make it completely parallel but I cant do much about the vertical angle, the best I can get it is to put the steering arm and ball under the connecter. it wont seem to fit anyhow if I try to make the vertical angle correct. with me using a 4L thin lift arm its hard to get the steering arm in the middle of that.

Here's a pic of my setup Not sure why I'm getting bump steer I guess its just something that comes with using lego. More images I have the LXF file but some parts are connected but not lined up properly and are colliding but LDD does not remove them. Regards, S

Hi Quick question, If I add a return to center spring box, will this cancel out some bump steer? does the PF servo motor have return to center built in? The steering and suspension geometry is perfect besides the bump steer. Regards, Snipe

The rear wheel from the 8417 has a deeper inside than a Unimog rim and the tire looks kinda cool too. you'd have to buy 4 from Bricklink realistically though. The 8448 wheels slide off the axle easily and also wobble on the axle slightly. The tumbler rims are quite small and not very deep. but the tire is kinda deep. For me the Williams f1 racer wheels are still the best. can somebody tell me what the inner diameter is in 'L' units? Inner diameter of the Unimog rims is 5L, and the radius is 3L