SNIPE

Not sure if this belongs in its own thread or not but... What's the easiest way for me to get x5 of part 80542 I ordered 6 from Pick a brick and clicked 'update cart' then came back and my cart was empty (this has happened before and LEGO refuse to fix it) So I re-add a huge PAB order again, which took ages, then after I paid it said everything in my cart was out of stock and is on backorder, so my order will be delayed. Then it arrived and I noticed they only send me one tire and not 6, so I emailed lego and got no reply for over a week. then they tell me: But they are still out of stock on PAB. and now they recon they don't have the mental capacity to send me 5 TIRES! and think they can pimp me over £10 of VIP points that I can't even spend on what I need. I still am phoning LEGO daily but I don't know if they are going to bother getting a backbone like when they USED to be a great company. So my question is what would the next easiest and cheapest way to get x5 of these tires online? I was trying to modify a model that @efferman designed but now idk if I should even bother. I also won;t be giving TLG any money for a while unless they do right by me

In fact even better than the 7x7 frame I showed earlier would be to just have a 0.5L drive ring extension. Then the diff+driveshaft can be centered but you can still lock the diff. We would need to have a new shifter fork that fits over this drive ring extension because any existing Lego shifter piece is male and too wide. This is female. A comma panel would be perfect but its not double sided, which is necessary to slide the drive ring extension left and right. The axlehole would be the same place as on a comma panel because that's perfect. Maybe someone can make a sketch?

So my PAB order came yesterday morning which included black 12T single bevel gears but also these Pin 2L frictionless with hard snap Here is an example showing how they might be more useful compared to the other pin types: This would be a substitution for the 5x11 frame but in Dark Bluish Gray, however the axles can still be pulled out easily but the pins are very hard to pull out (but still possible and come out cleanly) These axle pins sadly only come as a wheel tire and axle-pin assembly, and they cost like £4 each so I only have 4. Here is that assembly: Since they are light blue it can also be useful for to only use these as a color coding system, for example in a complex technic model light blue could be for say, the ride height adjustment, regular blue could (for example) be for the drivetrain, black for the body work, Light bluish gray for the winch, tan for the steering, pearl dark gray for the diff locks if we use all 3 types of 2L axle pins. I hope lego gives us these but as a 2L and/or 3L pin rather than a 2L axle pin, for if we need extra strength but don't have room to do bracing

What gears would you put in there? the center hole I assume you want facing vertically So now you have 2 pinholes on the front and back that are not vertical - fine, but what gears would fit in there when the sides are in the way (because its 5L) Unless you mean have 3 pinholes all on the front and back, but even that would only allow a gear to be placed in the center... Wouldn't it suffice to just have 2 3x5 flip flop beams to make a frame and then lock them together vertically

Good thing is, with the Lego science education sets new black double pulley wheel, we can combine them with the black half bush and black 3x3 pulley wheel to make crane block and tackles :P

I could really use this for the latest version of my 42110 land rover mod, but it would be useful for all sorts of technic models too, not just as a mechanism housing, but also as a connector or structural frame. Because the 7x11 frames are too long in both directions, I can get away with using it so the axle goes thru the long sides of the frame BUT then, I have no way to make the driveshaft go thru it, because since the gearbox clutch ring is 2L and so is the axle joiner, I have to offset my differential by 2L. This frame still allows for a typical centered differential setup, as well as steering racks, and other possibilities. The only downside is there are no 7L spaced pinholes that are on the sides of the frame, However, you might have noticed that in my image there appears to be a collision error? well not quite, its actually a vertical and horizontal pinhole at the same time! because in the corners there may be enough plastic to have this be strong enough.

I see, The cables could go thru the turntable but this still is not ideal.

Or one or more motors can be part of the boom itself

Amazing MOD in such a small space. I wonder if we could MOD this further and add a motor + actuator for the bucket scoping, that would really show TLG how it's done! I might tonight start working on cosmetic changes too

I was thinking the same, I have 2 from the 1995 V twin super bike but they are very old parts and black, whereas these new tires are white

@astyanax I figured out why my flappy paddle shifter wasn't working, I could move the gearbox stepper in 7 positions just fine But the problem is, I was using the blue shifter drums along with 0 and 45 degree knob wheels, however SOMEONE told me that the orange shifter drums are the same but where they don't have the 45 degree axle hole on one side, this is true, BUT, the pattern on the side of the shifter is actually different compared to the blue version, so it shifts in a different pattern. Anyhow, I will just try and use the sian's pimped up gearbox, people can leave out the AWD if they want. But I'm using this chassis as a donor for my supercar MOC too. So I will also have to use the daytonas paddle shifter. I still want to try and make the gearbox smaller with the use of the 2L shifter rings, the old orange changeover catches can remain, and also use the 12T, 20T spur, and 24T clutch gears. It also means it will have 8 speeds. I tried to use the paddle shifter from the technic LaFerrari MOC, where the paddles rotate with the steering wheel, but its not very reliable, too bulky to fit in the P1, and the paddles don't spring back .

YAY

Why not just make your own? I did for the rollercoaster track pieces

43857 in orange 2L diameter macaroni technic pieces in trans clear

I like to use imgbb.com because its fast to use and not censored in the UK. They also don't auto-delete images, or if they do its after a while by default

I think the smart brick can be used with other sensors as long as those sensors are controlled by a hub pf some sort. For example we could have a smart brick send sound to a sound sensor and light to another sensor.

I read it properly, it was from a user. aI take things I don't believe with a grain of salt so people have the benefit of the doubt, I wanted to have motor upgrades again personally. I would rather have a car that moves and maybe skips gear teeth instead of the same old recycled basic functions. The V8 well, it's a McLaren P1 so meh

I totally am not happy about this flipping 1:8 scale hypermuscle car, how will this possibly be technically interesting? Assuming its the viper or mustang we will now be getting all of the below: v10 or v8 engine👎 6 speed gearbox 👎 no adjustable spoiler 👎 regular opening door mechanism 👎 no 4WD/AWD 👎 no flappy paddle gearbox 👎 no adjustable ride height (MOCs/other brands only have this) 👎 no optional motorization (I bet) (although I heard a rumor on eurobricks that the large technic sets will now have powered up/Control+ upgrade👎 I actually like the Dodge Viper GTS-R but COME ON LEGO!.

@Stephan I just had a great idea, can't we make a tool that converts a ldr or lxf model into a custom part, therefore it would act like a submodel, you can specify in the tool if you still want parts of the submodel to be movable or re-color-able, just like how with some LDD parts, you can move/recolor certain sub-parts of them. If the user just wants a read only submodel then he would just choose to not have any recolor-able or movable parts in the "submodel" This would help make LDD more usable for large projects. I think a tool that is within LDD is less clunky than an external tool, the internal tool for LDD also lets you import and export submodels. It basically lists all of the project folders submodels. We can even make the tool open a second instance of LDD and load the submodel as a file with a single instance of the submodel or load the submodel as a regular file again. templates and groups in LDD suck. I think I and a friend can inject said tool into LDD but I would need someone else to handle the conversion between LDR/LXF as well as the data format of LDD part files.

I made mount and some LEDs for the trans-clear headlight pieces: digital file here You also may want to download the headlight part itself from here I used pearl light gray because its a little bit reflective, not as much as I would like but I needed mounting points for the LEDs as close to the oval part as possible but also connection points to mount the whole unit to the bodywork (i.e the technic holes) It can be customized a lot, like using 1x1 technic beams in metallic silver, of brick round 1x1x2 in chrome silver.

Yes, they come apart easily.

The idea is ok, but wouldn't it make more sense to just use 4 levers on independent axles? You can also make a lever that has a pinhole by using a 1x1 technic brick along with a 25893 on the bottom.

I believe so

Here you go: https://fogeyman.tistory.com/1644

There may be a stronger way to have drive going thru the turntables without needing a few 12 tooth single bevel gears and the blue clutch gears but I'm still experimenting with that. I tired knob wheels but they were 1L further out on either side of the turntable, so there was an axle with 3 knob wheels in series going thru the turn table, then a knob wheel meshed at 90 degrees on both ends. I originally tried the 3x3 disc connector that has 2 pinholes and 2+1 axle holes as well as some stud pins and 58176 baroke eyes but they are too wide for the teeth on the knob wheels. I know that your bevel gears spin when the turntable spins so it's simpler in that respect but yeah, finding something that can go inside of the turntables while not jam against them is hard.