Mantarri

Would someone mind "not" letting me know where to find the leaked pics in a DM (not the thread)?

I ended up getting a replacement. As my fix did stop working. Found that out while building my Arocs, and was almost finished ...

Just saw this, and it speaks to me. I love machines designed for snow, especially plows (currently trying to get up the motivation to finish the cab on my plow truck). And snow is nice for outdoor models; once you're done, take it inside, put it by the wood stove, or heater, and let it drip-dry. :) It's definitely giving me some inspiration for future MOCs...

I know the feeling all too well. My hobbies are Game-development, and modding, and then Technic. In all three, I often run into situations where I spend waaay too long making things "just right". Though I do feel that I'm getting better. Finally have a MOC that I've almost finished that doesn't feel hacky on the inside, and works well... mostly. It's a snow plow truck in the Arocs scale, and I decided to not add the complexity of suspension. Which means it can't actually plow snow outside, as the ground is bumpy enough that I never have both wheels on at least one drive axle touching the ground, so both diffs engage, and it just sits there. I decided to just work on finishing it (as the MOC is almost done), and learn from it for my next attempt at a snow clearing vehicle.

Spot-on. I'm of the camp that RC is interesting, but we haven't had a technically interesting (and cheaper...) manual model, like the Arocs, for quite awhile. The rough terrain crane wasn't extremely complicated, but it did work pretty well, but since then, we haven't had a manual flagship, or even a manual semi-flagship (due to the cancelled plane). The Arocs did well with 2793 parts, and the RTC did well with 4056. I'd be fine with either sort of set, but I've personally had enough RC sets for a couple years, at least.

I have the same problem with most of those connectors I have; and I have quite a few. The black ones seem to be a bit more resilient, and the LBG are the worst. Same goes for the twisted 1x3 connectors.

I had problems with almost every 1x5 thin liftarm from my 42094 tracked loader. I purchased it early 2019, and after leaving it assembled for awhile, I finally went to dissassemble the bogies for use in MOCs, and 6, or so, out of the 8 aformentioned liftarms had broken at the axle holes some way, inlucing a couple that were so bad that the whole outer-half of the axle hole broke off in the middle. I've also had two separate PF motors fail recently. The first was a few months ago; a medium motor from my CLAAS I purchased in 2018; the motor only works if the cable is in certain orientations. I contacted support, and they sent me a replacement. Second failure was a Large motor from my Arocs, which unlike my CLAAS (which I bought new from Amazon), I bought used off Bricklink in 2016. After testing out a MOC I had been working on a week-or-so ago, I noticed that the cable's sleeve was essentially disintegrating; random bits break into cracks. It was dangerously close to being able to short-circuit! Luckily I caught it, and LEGO still had L motors in stock for replacement part purposes, so I'm now just waiting on it to be delivered. I haven't had any problems with the sleeves on any of the motors from my older 9398 Crawler I bought off Bricklink, but these two instances definitely have me worried about my motor wires. And I'm not rough with things either, I'm very careful with my parts, and they are stored in my storage system, which isn't very humid at all, I only have the parts in sunlight when I'm playing with a MOC outside, or if I'm building it, which only lasts a few weeks, tops.

I love the clean look, The main white, black, and pop of red looks amazing. And while I can't watch the video, it sure makes me want to grab some of the mini Xerion wheels as well...

I was personally referring to the non-pnuematic elements (turntable slewing, outrigger extension, and box dumping). The crane arm had the pneumatic valves for direction, and was rather intuitive to control.

As someone who has both sets, I totally agree. And it means more gears, and such, which is never a bad thing...

I'm personally looking at just buying the BuWizz 3.0 with a friend whenever they started doing a 2 unit bundle, as it supports both PF, and PU, and buying some PU motors on Bricklink, as they can be used as servos.

I've got quite a few parts in no longer produced colours (bought a bin of studded, and early studless-era technic. But I pretty much only use the parts that aren't available in black anymore that I have. Such as black 3L friction pins, black axle pins with friction, etc. I am also annoyed that Mindstorms NXT used Very Light Blueish Grey, instead of just using white.

The Force, uh, finds a way.

Ah, thanks for the recommendation, I'll take a look into that.

have a dilemma. I'm working on what is essentially a train, but for snow. The "locomotive" has 4 sets of tracks, and the two "cars" have skis. Since it's going to be PF, I'm trying to figure out how to get it to turn. One idea that might work is somehow taking the outputs for each side, and putting them together to either keep the trail connection straight, or turn depending on the difference in speed on the locomotives left, and right side. Any ideas on a mechanism that could accomplish this?

Oh darn, that sucks. :/

Have you checked Bricks and Pieces? I got 4 rather cheap on there a month-or-so-ago.

I don't believe you can set each port to a specific voltage/setting (i.e. slow, normal, fast, ludicrous), as it seems to be either they all get the power boost, or none at all. But you can hook them up to the BuWizz, and have them use it as a battery pack if you turn it on. And if you want to go faster, you can use the speed switch in your app to make all the ports go faster. And you can also run motors off the ports the SBricks are connected to, and control them independently from the SBrick, something to do with how BuWizz powers the motors through 2 of the 4 pins, and the SBrick uses the 2 pins that the BuWizz just passively lets power through - though that may mean server motors could go screwy. But I'm not sure on that last bit about the servo, as this is just what I've read from a lucky soul who had both a BuWizz, and an SBrick.

Seems to be back down again, can't even reach the main site (here in Canada at least).

Just for the record, you can use a BuWizz as a battery box for SBricks, and still be able to also power power function components independently off the ports. I bought a BuWizz, and I will at some point buy an SBrick, or two, to raise the amounts of motors I can control to 8, or 12.

I'll second that, I actually started my collection with an NXT set, then got the Arocs, CLAAS, 9398 4x4 Crawler, and tracked loader over the years (next one is 42082, just waiting for it to be back in stock cheaply in Canada). I've just used Bricks and Pieces, and Bricklink to round out my collection, especially for larger quantities of rare parts, such as panels, and new gears, etc.

I think you have what I mentioned confused with LEGO's Pick-A-Brick, which has a very, very small selectin of technic parts. Bricks and Pieces has a pretty good selection, and prices are sometimes better, or worse than Bricklink. You also need to keep in mind that Bricks and Pieces has a flat shipping rate, and no minimum buy, whereas it seems sometimes that every bricklink store that has what I need has a minimum buy and/or shipping fee higher than what I want to buy, or more than what it comes to from Bricks and Pieces.

In addition to the suggestions here, be sure to also check out LEGO's Bricks and Pieces. It sometimes has better prices than Bricklink, has a low flat shipping rate (or free shipping, if your order enough $-worth of items on Lego.com to hit the free shipping threshold, Bricks and Pieces orders don't count). It's also a good spot to get pieces that are still in production, but have a larger price on Bricklink, due to no sets being made with them anymore, but LEGO still making the part. The only problem really is the "prep time" for them to put the order together, and the shipping time, depending on where you are (generally takes 3 weeks to get to me, in Canada once it ships out).

The 42080 is actually the set that introduced the redesign of the pump base, so you should be good.

I personally got a buwizz, and I'll probably get an SBrick at some point to add more ports, for less cost, you actually get 8 ports in total with an SBrick + BuWizz; you can control a motor individually, and the SBrick gets power regardless of whether the BuWizz is sending power to it.