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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    One more: Wallpaper group p2 (2222)
  2. Didumos69
    This little house is also an almost perfect fit. The width of the house is in fact slightly more than the 5L suggested by the parts. The roof of the house is part of a hexagon with radius 3 and if I'm not mistaken the width of the house equals twice the height of that hexagon. Following @Erik Leppen's method to calculate the height: height^2 + 1.5^2 = 3^2, hence height = sqrt(9 - 2.25) = sqrt(6.75), which gives 2,60. So the house is 5.2L wide.
  3. Didumos69
    Wallpaper group cmm (2*22) Wallpaper group p4g (4*2) Wallpaper group p4g (4*2) Wallpaper group pgg (22×) Which makes this a pain to model
  4. Didumos69
    Some great tessalation already! Nice winter brain training . Here's my first one:
  5. Didumos69
    Haha, my mistake. Nice solution ! I will use it.
  6. Didumos69
    Yes. The bottom side of the motor rotates outward when the suspension compresses. Try to place the blue part in the same position of the upper A-arm. I just implemented the A-arms with 7L liftarms. It is indeed more rigid ! And much more simple. Thanks!
  7. Didumos69
    Thank yo very much @agrof! I like the idea of using the 7L liftarms instead of thin ones. I will certainly try that. I tried something like your steering links earlier. It introduces toe-in even though LDD sais it fits, and it does not give Ackermann geometry. But there is an other problem. The 5L suspension arms that connect to the wheel hubs collide with the wheel hub when the steering angle is max and the suspension is max compressed or max expanded. You seem to have messed up the lime green wheel hub a bit. It misses the half bushes to create space for the wheel hubs to rotate around the suspension arms. Therefore 4L axles with stop you used are not an option, I need at least 4.5L. The blue parts at the bottom A-arm are nice, but they collide with the motor when the suspension is compressed. Thanks for thinking with me! I will let you know how this will effect the design.
  8. Didumos69
    You are right, I did not take the inclination into account yet. Given that the inclination is 5 degrees, the exact heart-to-heart distance is: sqrt((6 - sin(5 / 180))^2 + 5^2 + (2 + (1 - cos(5 / 180)))^2) ≈ 8.04 I agree that LEGO has quite some tolerance, especially when you take the tolerance of connections into account. I wouldn't want to claim that working 'in-system' is 'better' than going by 'whatever fits'. It is to a certain extent a purely personal thing. However, I am convinced that working 'in-system' paves the road for a gradual design without running into 'won't fit'-problems and allows for more easy adjustments down the road. This way of working also makes it more easy to see opportunities where you can replace several parts with a single part. For instance, when I see the opportunity to replace some parts wit a T-bone piece or a 5x7 frame and it adds to cohesion, I won't hesitate to make that change. Thanks for pointing this out @agrof. I am aware that in this kind of builds it is even more important to limit weight. I have built the front module and already skipped quite some parts and will keep on trying to remove parts during the rest of the real life build process. Even more now that you have emphasized this. Btw, here is the LXF of the front module. Please let me know if you see anything obvious to skip.
  9. Didumos69
    Thanks! I'm constantly looking for Pythagorean triples and quadruples. 9L track rods span a heart-to-heart distance of 8L. In this case they are in-grid with the front module and it can be easily observed they span 6L length-wise, 5L width-wise and 2L height-wise. That makes a heart-to-heart length of sqrt(6^2 + 5^2 + 2^2)L = sqrt(65)L ≈ 8.06L. No perfect fit, but when using track rods, there is just enough slack in the tow-ball connections to make this a tight fit.
  10. Didumos69
    Thanks for sharing! Even though I share the opinion that it is poor in functions, I like the looks and the use of 15l axles.with pinholes as reinforcements. As for the wheel arch's, at least this model has some suspension travel. And for that you need spacy wheel wells. It's a rally car after all. Personally I prefer this over Mocs that claim to have suspension, but can't travel more than half a stud.
  11. Didumos69
  12. Didumos69
    Very nice model once again! Like others I would love to see what's inside.
  13. Didumos69
    Thanks brothers! So far it has half the number of parts of the chassis only version of my rugged supercar. There is quite a lot of empty space packed in this one. I added a connection between the top of the front module and the sides of the mid section. I used 9L steering rods. That should give the front module width-wise stability. Next step will be to mount the shocks for the rear suspension and then it's time to buy some motors .
  14. Didumos69
    The pinhole of the crossblock is exactly 1L. The lever is slightly narrower. A normal liftarm also has exactly 1L width and slighly less height (when width is measured along the pinhole). This may seem negligible, but when it comes precise, it can make a lot of difference.
  15. Didumos69
    There are several issues with the Porsche gearbox.
  16. Didumos69
    If you would use a crossblock there should be no gap.
  17. Didumos69
    Going by the LXF I fear the diff and the toggle joint are not braced good enough sideways. I don't see any obvious ways to improve that. Only for the locked-diff version I see a few small twists that might help a little: 1) add a bush inbetween the U-joint and the CV-joint, so the U-joint won't be able to move towards the CV-joint, thus confining the toggle-joint better, and 2) add some parts to the sides of the toggle joint to make it better locked-in between surounding parts. I think the shocks leave some space for a cross-block. Its pinhole takes a full stud in width. Adding a 1L beam inbetween the toggle-joint and the cross-block should secure the toggle-joint better. But it remains to be symptom treatment. The main issue is the lack of widthwise cohesion in the front section. I think it would be better to use the H-frames horizontally.
  18. Didumos69
    I'm afraid the best way is to enclose the diff and 20t gear in a single frame. If you PM me the LXF I could look into it better. EDIT: I think the problem has to do with the bracing to the left and right side of the diff. Even the toggle joint needs to be somehow confined to its left and right sides.
  19. Didumos69
    But U-joints don't click or do they? Are you sure it's not the CV-joints that click? Did you fill the axle between the U-joint and CV-joint with (half) bushings?
  20. Didumos69
    Isn't a 3L liftarm enough, instead of the T-shape? Or maybe you can make something that is two studs wide, then it would fit with a normal diff. Something like this:
  21. Didumos69
    Looking good sofar! Nice to see some real life building .
  22. Didumos69
    Thanks! The whole front module is mounted to two lengthwise beams. The difficult part was to firmly connect those beams to the main structure and to introduce a caster angle at the same time. I continued working on the main structure. I now also have most of the width-wise structure done and integrated two removable BuWizzes. Also the trailing arms of the rear suspension are completely integrated now. Only need to add a connection between the topside of the front module and the sides of the main structure and then the chassis design should be done.
  23. Didumos69
    I made a few more improvements to the front module. There was a problem with one of the gearrack sliders. The one at the front side of the gearrack collided with the steering rod when it moved outward. So I refactored the entire gearrack support. In addition, I inserted minifig hammers into the 2L pins connecting the steering rods to the wheel hubs. That works very well. I'm now quite confident the front module will endure. Here are two renders of the front module with the steering, drive, suspension and bracing separated:
  24. Didumos69
    Excellent work! The bodywork is the best I've ever seen: Both functional and rigid. Hats off !
  25. Didumos69
    Thanks! Credits for the PDF go to @Ivan_M of course.
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