Victor Imaginator

I just love the bodywork. It may look simple for first time, but there's everything in it's place. Also it's yellow, i like yellow non-construction cars)

And final update for today - grille + bumper. I don't have small shield with logo from Arocs set, but i think i should use small shield without print instead of built logo)

Wow) Now i clearly understand the reason why TLG produce these large yellow quarter circles.

Another update. Steering rack mechanism is now finally sturdy and compact. Fake engine moved deeper and become a structural element. HOG gear on top is located where is roof ended. Back of frame it's a little flexible being 1 stud thin - it will be sturdier later with something attached at the back of the truck. Frame can't be lowered more - it's already touching the front and rear axles while suspension fully compressed. And i don't want to make axles thinner.

@efferman By the way - LXF isn't lower. In your solution absorbers mounting point is where top axle of portal hub is. I already has it one stud lower. And managed to make it lower another 2 studs today. Wedge wheels + 2 gears in the middle is a placeholder for old style differential. Whole frame is less robust now, but it have same articulation possibilities and it's more compact at rear. Also steering mechanism is taking less space now and more useful for building around it. I'm still like 42000 wheels more - they are narrower. With sprockets and discs it looks ok for me.

Just tried both of solutions - bend the frame and low mounting points of shock absorbers. Result isn't nice, differentials is too close to frame, suspension travel become less. Main problem is portal hubs, they are too big for that scale. But i will find some solution tomorrow)

@Siegfried Meyer No, i don't plan a "high rider". Chassies is really too high, but it's almost lowest possible with 9.5L shock absorbers. I think that i'll hide chassies with some kind of bodywork later. Or i can try to win another one stud and hope that additional weight will push chassies more closer to original)

Another small update. Front bumper, shapes of cabin and wheel arch.

Small update with tiny tweaks. Also i used a ruler and a blueprint and realize that Unimog wheels are too big for Unimog) With given wheelbase 81.6 mm wheels fits almost perfectly. Tumbler tires looks more truck like, but 42000 more in size because they are narrower. Should i keep 42000 tires or Tumbler? Also... It was a very wrong start to think that i will make an unimog with proper suspension. But TLG already did, and i didn't knew it) I was confused, but i have longer Panhard rods, more proper steering... And my Unimog will be newer, so i'll finish it anyway)

Thanks all for your comments. @Saberwing40k Seriously. Checking instructions show that i was wrong. My fault - never seen any 8110 axles articulation shots, and "remebered" that it hasn't proper suspension(

Fixed this... Also make whole drivetrain simplier, get rid of many useless parts)

@efferman i just found one pictures with insides of unimog. Only thing that i understand - engine is right behind front axle) I'll rotate it later, thanks for comment.

Just rebuilded all somewhat cleaner and add fake engine.

Yesterday i realized that Unimogs have very interesting suspension. And 8110 offers nice shape, but not this unique suspension. So, i don't sure where i'll finish, but this is where i started. Torque tube suspension. No need for any control arms, only Panhard rod. Steering link is similar and parallel to that Panhard rod, so, suspension travel do not affect steering.

Promised video with showcase of functions.

Amazingly simple) Great MOC.

Just crazy how fast you build such replicas. Waiting for belly shot)

Black grille + red bumper give more accent to shapes as i think. Agreed with @letsbuild

Seems unfair to design a battle bot and do not try to win by battle. But i got the point... I just need to make most scary mechanical disaster?

Here's 4 pink technic panels, 2 flex axles and #4 connector. Also 2 small purple panels.

Thanks for your comments) @Jurss Never seen it in real cars, surprised) Agreed - middle part looks too complex. It, surely, can be simplified without loosing rigidity (it's almost always possible =), but clearance can't be changed. Half stud from bottom point is center differential, and i already put it one stud higher than it should be. Looks at side shot - you will see how shaft to front axle already at maximum possible angle, almost touching torque-ball part. But with more complicated approach with additional gears clearance may be improved, i'll remember this for my future MOCs.

42039 and 42037 - great pack parts for very reasonable prices. But what really was a bang - is 42030.

Love weird bodywork angles - looks like real one.

@Leonardo da Bricki Thanks) There's small cheating with rollcage rear part - nothing illegal, but ends secured between parts, not by regular connections. And suspension travel do not affect steering at all... Steering arm is similar and parrallel to control arms. But have offset to one side, so some 2..5 degree of affection should be in case of tilting car to one side.

Insane details, i love front grille and fat guy) And i love all that mechanics in small space.