Victor Imaginator

@agrof Thanks) I don't want to make chassis uniform, i want nice axles articulation. And front will weight much more than rear. But, i can fit same shocks configuration at rear axle... later... maybe) I seen all this pictures and this PDF is main source of sizes for me. But renders is not so nice as photo. Just strange - why nobody shoot U4023 from back?

Guys, i need some help. I can't find any normal picture of rear bumper( If somebody have it and can share - it will be very helpful)

Incredibly huge... larger and heavier than my largest and heaviest cat) What i like most about this model - all functions are working nice with all that given weight.

Now, when i'm finally happy with suspension and rebuilded frame - time for bodywork. Front bumper, properly sized and bent (better than previous version).

I'm not a model guy... Not even MOC builder) But i just can't build something without suspension. For me it's like a puzzle almost every time: "How i can make this type of suspension with given scale". Only when i get something that working nicely - i may be impressed by results, so i build some bodywork. And some of my suspension setups just saved somewhere inside my head without any bodywork)

@ThomasGraafland Thanks) @Attika You're welcome) Ribbed hoses is great idea... i should make another supercar.

No rubber is stretched, so no damage over time. 100% pure lego solution. Maybe someone will find this useful)

@I_Igor Almost the same) My variant of torque tube is 3 studs longer, but it's the only difference. Another update - reinforced many places, chassis is less flexible now. Both anti-roll bars is working. And documented all this in LDD, do not know why. It helps me develop, but i spend one hour to make shocks substitutes... and it was not neccesary)

Thanks for help) Magic again...

And another question. Red clutch gear don't make 'click' with old differential in LDD. I just can rotate it as i wish. And gear have overlap with differential. I don't know what it means, maybe old differential isn't properly described inside LDD. Anybody can check - is this configuration working in real life?

As i said yesterday - better to see it. Video clearly shows me where i was wrong. There's no 4 studs travel, there's chassis bending. A little bit frustrating, but no fails - no learning) Braced it properly, also started making LDD, because i think i need some optimizations. Fixed chassies: And 3 questions about LDD: Blue question - how to align it? Green question - how to put 2x4 liftarm there? Cross axle hole in liftarms don't have that round depression. But ball pin with axle have this tiny round bevel... Pink question - how to place u-joints with 12z bevel gear attached on the axle instead of LBG bushing? P.s. Already solved green one - just put 2x4 liftarm first. But, 9L steering link is off the grid because of that 1mm.

Fixing rear of chassis and making it more sturdy lead to changing rear shocks mounting point. It increased travel of suspension. This increased travel ruined all my attempts to incorporate anti-roll bar( Maybe i will solve this tomorrow. And front anti-roll bar is changed to more compact and capable of 4 stud travel. As you can see at the photo - with given articulation chassis flexing in the front part. Later it will be fixed, and with weight of bodywork i think articulation remains the same. By the way - 4 stud travel with 6.5L shocks. Better to see it.

Congratulations) Now whole world is impressed.

@Didumos69 Thanks) Yes, it bends a little. Not because of shocks, just under it's own weight. There's only one beam from left side that hold very rear part. And it holds on two first pins of a beam. I'll fix it later)

@I_Igor By stiffer i mean "harder to twist". Construction is rigid enough. I sure that adding 1 kg of bodywork do not lead to failures like bending parts, unpinning parts e t.c.

Another update. I hope it's close to final version of chassis. 6.5 hard shocks at front axle, doubled 9.5 soft shocks at rear axle, anti-roll bars. Anti-roll bars wasn't planned, but with more and more weight rolling was more and more significant. Front anti-roll bar. Still thinking how to put it inside car, not outside... Rear anti-roll bar. Slightly stiffer than front because these long soft shocks are too soft and rolling is more noticeable at rear axle. Was noticeable)

@I_Igor I tried tons of parts combinations for torque tube - to make it small and rigid enough. Dog bone just fits there as no other part) But i opened for suggestions. Width of the model is about 23 studs and with Tumbler tires it will be more. I choose 42000 tires because of smaller width - more life like.

Great thing))) Works better with connectors #4 than connectors #5. Doesn't work at all with #3. Still can't figure what kind of suspension this should help to build.

Progress for today: Not a final shape of the cabin, just to feel overall proportions.

Sounds fun... but links are dead(

1:14.5 scale... close, but i'll use long shocks at rear anyway. And i need to use panels at rear, because rear suspension is softer now. For balance i may choose brick built cabin. No panels for front axle) Also, another small update. Because i need lightweight attachment at rear, using mostly panels - choice was easy. And i decided too start with attachment, because weight balance is really important thing for me. There's green marks - 3 fixing pins. And yellow marks - it's guide pins. Very easy replaceable back) One side is black because i don't have another pair of 3x11 panels in white. Let's assume that driver was drunk and damage this side of truck... And then, because he still was drunk, he stole replacement from nearby truck, but in different color)

@Jurss Thanks) I wasn't even planned to make Unimog. Just played a little in relatively new Asphalt Extreme - there's Unimog U 4023. And there's independent suspension. I was shocked, and searched for details immediately. And then i realize that i never heard nothing about torque tube suspension. So, it was challenge and i just accepted it) @I_Igor Thanks) Blueprint was needed only to understand where's engine. And using ready solution from 8110 - it's not what LEGO for me. I like to develop something new, at least new for myself. I don't plan to use 8110 wheels - it's too large for chosen scale. And i really need hard 9.5 shocks for rear axle, for mounting some heavy at rear of truck. But don't have an opportunity to get at least pair right now( Thanks for parts suggestions. I don't decided about grille yet, but under the bumper will be 6L half beams. Exactly 6 holes like on real one)

Great suspension shots)

Building some bodywork lead me to one thought - i need that long hard shocks from 9398 crawler (or 8110 unimog). Soft ones just can't hold that weight... But i find a solution how to do it right just here and now) Using 6.5 hard shocks doesn't look like bright idea? Yes, suspension travel at rear axle became worse. I think i'll revert to 9.5 shocks for rear axle. But at front axle suspension just get much more stiffer, but with same articulation. There's something weird - floating shock mounting points. It's virtually make shock longer.

Suspension have one flaw - too soft) Just don't have hard shocks yet... Tried to swap sides of bent liftarms. Is it some kind of magic? Need some adjustments of Panhard rod, but it should be better, thanks)