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Immo

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Immo

  1. And a little video I made: Wow, it's horrible. Not lots of room in my apartment + bad quality cam + hands occupied by both pilot and camera = C-Movie for C-Model
  2. A glympse of how the engine block works: LINK
  3. They call those who ride them "rednecks". But while you may ponder whether the setup like this is an overkill or not, a pickup mounted on 10' wheels is a thing to remember no matter the circumstances. Features: â–º forward/reverse drive â–º separately-driven L6 turbocharged Diesel engine with moving pistons and cooling fan â–º steering â–º differential and gearing for speed â–º simplified cockpit with steering wheel and IR-receiver seats. â–º opening cab doors and hood â–º exhaust stack â–º details such as radiator with grille, front and rear lights, bull bar and reinforced bumpers, roof rack with extra floodlights, rear view mirrors, desert safety flag and fenders 42030 C-model, uses more than 80% of set's parts (loose assumption). 42 studs long and heavy. Despite its weight and only one XL motor as means of propulsion, it has a quite decent speed - it picks up (pun intended) a huge momentum - and an impressive turning radius. Engine is separately powered by L motor. Steering is much like in a video game, where both reverse and brakes are controlled by the same button. Unsuspected bonus: by accident, the bed is perfectly shaped to hold the RC control unit which consists of two RC pilots with a standard RC-car additions. The set's M motor lies dormant, waiting to be used on some extra function I can't currently come up with. It'd be hard to craft the instructions in LDD, but I'll try one day.
  4. I decided to use this thread instead of creating the next one. My servo works fine, but not perfectly. When turning left, it works good, the sound is like it did originally (identical to the sound of servos I saw on YouTube). However, when turning right, it makes an ugly noise, like it was overloaded. Was is strained somehow or something? My RC model bumped into something once or twice. The noise occurs both when I rotate it right and when it autocenters from left position, either on loaded (geared) or lose (standalone) servo. The rotation iteself is fine, autocenters perfectly and both left and right turns are 90 degrees as they should. But I live on this technology-filled globe long enough to to be worried about a machine that starts making ugly noises. What can I do? Some lubrication is necessary?
  5. 42030 Volvo Loader for 50% of MSRP, new, unspoilt and unopened. And so, the RC adventure starts.
  6. 42030 VOLVO on its way to my house! After 25+ years of dreaming of something fully RC, finally, the dream will come true.

  7. In Poland they have those too, but Toys'R'Us is at least 20% more expensive than Lego catalog price
  8. I've driven dragsters. In Forza ;) Aside from that, nothing, I'm afraid.
  9. Go to MY PAGES, select the pic you want and open it. Once it's opened, click "Copy Image URL" or "copy image address" or something along these lines, than come here, click the "Image" button (under the "Smiley" button) and paste the copied URL Repeat with other pics. If you want to share the instructions direcly, copy the URL of the lxf file by right clicking on the download icon that appears once you hover your mouse over the lxf and selecting "copy the link URL" (or somesuch) and paste it here.
  10. I knew someone would think of Tumbler, however the fact it kinda looks like that wasn't deliberate.
  11. Draggy could be a small addition to 2016's sets C-Model collection? 42046 alt build, at your disposal.
  12. This is what happens when you have a dune buggy but want it to be a salt flat racer or even a dragster. Very fast and very durable, performs astonishing wheelies and looks as scary as a golden-toothed-and-cheap-sunglasses-skull-adorned racer could get. 42046 C-Model, uses 100% of the original set's parts and has those notable features: â–º pull-back motor â–º very fake V8 and exhausts behind the cockpit â–º steering wheel, speedometer and floodlights + rear lights â–º reinforced frame and balancing enabling it to perform wheelies (apologies for the photo quality, those were the best results I could get) EDIT: Here's the LDD file if someone's interested. Couldn't assemble the whole thing because of the usual LDD shenanigans, but it's kinda straightforward when you go those three pics. That orange bulky thing is, of course, an equivalent of the pull-back motor not included in LDD - shoutout to marco9999 for the design. http://bricksafe.com/files/Immo/42046_C_Model_Draggy.lxf
  13. No worries, I learned about it a couple days ago, too, from Sariel's Volvo review. ;)
  14. One thing could save this car: the "train"-type RC controller. It has gradable controls, so delicate steering instead of "LEFT-CENTRE-RIGHT" setup would be possible.
  15. I'm in love with Heavy Lift Heli, but I'm getting Volvo Front Loader while I can get it cheap, so the chopper's gotta wait. I'd love to have the Porsche as I'm a sucker for orange panels and cars in general, but that thing's way to expensive for non-PF set for me.
  16. I meant 42050, "Drag Racer" which, using a correct petrolhead terminology, is a funny car
  17. For Polish user PayPal is a pain in the... lower back. Especially now when they want to violate your bank account's security when you want to add some money to your PP account. It's Visa for me.
  18. When I obtain a pre-owned set, I smell it first. If it smells OK and is clean, I either display it or take it apart. When I got 9390, the B-Model was built and I just wanted to display the A-Model, so I took it apart and built the thing I wanted. The 9391 I got was smell because the person who gifted it to me was a smoker. I too kit apart, rinsed it in water with dish washing liquid, re-built it and kept in baking soda filled cabinet until it was squeaky clean and smelled OK. If the parts are intact, I don't want to replace them. If any element was missing and it was a half of the pair (like headlights, for example), I'd buy two and replace the old one to make sure the difference between a "fresh" part and an used one won't spoil the symmetry.
  19. They did a funny car, which I'd never expect. They need to do a lowrider now. Hydraulics, not linear actuators. Styled after Chevy Impala or Monte Carlo.
  20. Not that contemporary at all. Chrysler's Turbine Car was built in 1963, 31 years after the Dueces (1932 Ford Model A, a most classic base for a hot rod) were originally made, while the first turbine-powered car was made just after WW2. But I see your point
  21. Sorry for this petrolhead nitpicking, but the term "rat" means the car is rusty and full of makeshift & crudely fabricated parts. This rod here is pretty clean and looks like a pro job, so it's certainly not a rat rod. As for the model, it looks awesome! Was thinking about a turbine car lately.
  22. Does my Bootleg Belle qualify? Made only of 42000, roughly 92,5% of the set's parts (wild guess). EDIT: Since then the model was slightly updated, but is still roughly the same and no parts outside of 42000 were added.
  23. The Speed Champions sets are available in stores in Poland despite claims from the official stores they won't be sold at all. Good thing, I still want to get Ford+Ford and Chevy+Chevy sets.
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