Jump to content

5imon

Eurobricks Citizen
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by 5imon

  1. 5imon
    Oh my god, now I only thinkings of strange english sentenzes... ;-)))))
  2. 5imon
    I think it's perfectly OK to say "I have pics, but I won't share them". Why? Obviously, sharing is out of the question because of the non-disclosure agreements. But if I see a statement of someone who has a picture, I can clearly distinguish that from all the speculations that are running around.
  3. 5imon
    I don't know the 8466. But I had the exactly same problem as Kumbbl describes when I tried to make vehicles with relatively soft suspension (which must be a common wish among Citroën fans ;-). You get the spring rate right, i.e. the springs are not fully extended when the vehicle is not pressed down, but they are halfway extended and have spring travel in both directions. That's what Blakbird described. But if a suspension is so soft, it has a very hard time to fight against all the friction and backlash in a Lago suspension setup, so it can hardly push the vehicle back up once it has been pressed down. So the way is not to make the suspension stiffer, but to get rid of friction as much as possible. Maybe tha't what Han actually did, it's hard to tell from the description above.
  4. 5imon
    Good point with the bracing, and thanks for this hint! I had a lot of problems with grinding gears that I solved, but not at this spot so far. But who knows with the weight increase to come... However I think it should be possible to solve this easily by constructing the front end to accept these two gears in a rigid structure (angled liftarm or similar).
  5. 5imon
    I really miss a "like" button for andythenorth's post... :-D
  6. 5imon
    Finally! The chassis is up and running. For better bracing, I just had to add two liftarms, but that meant to dis- and reassemble almost the whole rear axle. I'm getting really proficient on that ;-) It really runs well now, all functions work as intended, and with the train remote for driving and height adjustment, it's a really smooth driving experience. I could even gear it up a little so it reaches a quite decent speed. Let's see if this is still the case with the whole body on it, maybe I'll have to change some gears again. But now, the pictures – sorry for the really low quality, I was quite in a rush and it was way too late for daylight. View from the top – You see that the connection between the axles is still very preliminary. Though I was still astonished about how little the frame bends. Of course the position of the IR receivers is not definitive yet – but all the other components (motors, battery box) are. I expect very little changes on the chassis from now on, probably just the addition of a few attachment points for the body and interior. I plan to add stiffness mainly by a very well braced central tunnel. Side view: A detail from the back: ... and from the front. Here it becomes also obvious that it's very easy to chenge the main gearing of the drive motor. I plan to add an easily detachable front end to ensure this possibility. And finally, some might also be interested in a bottom view:
  7. 5imon
    Why not stay with the dragline? I think its functions are more interesting... But I'm not a big supercar fan, so my opinion might be a little biased on this topic. So, another big red car with adaptive suspension in the contest – this could become interesting ;-) Why do you raise only the front suspension? Is the original car also doing this?
  8. 5imon
    Good news: the chassis is completed and works – almost! I still have to implement some reinforcements around the central differential so it can run without gear grinding. But everything else worhs smoothly :-) I hope I can at least shoot a few pictures, unfortunately it's always dark when I'm at home this time of the year. So stay tuned for thonight...
  9. 5imon
    Interesting truck! I'm very curious about what this boost function will be and how it will work. And I agree with pint14, I'd use some more impressive wheels for this type of vehicle, like Unimog or balloon tires.
  10. 5imon
    Interesting information about the 24T gears. I had a situation exactly as Madoca shows in #8 in one of my recent MOCs, and I had to completely redesign this part because the 24T kept rattling over the longitudinal liftarm. However, I don't know if it was the newer or the older type. I haven't tried a cluch gear, either.
  11. 5imon
    It doesn't necessarily have to be A-arms. There are also the smaller, newer style steering arms (in light bluish grey) that look just like a liftarm with a ball joint receptable at one end. They could be your choice if it has to be as compact as possible, however I think with the A-arms the whole setup is a bit more robust as they have a larger base where they are attached to the frame and don't "wobble" so much in the longitudinal direction as the small arms.
  12. 5imon
    Of course I had no doubt about this! It was just my quirky way of saying "hey, it's just machining, it doesn't have to be anything more". As Balrog puts it, I also see it more as a proof of concept than as a machine that is capable to produce anything useful (unless you think that ice sculptures are "useful" ;-)
  13. 5imon
    Well, the purpose of machining seems quite clear to me. Lots of products are made this way. I think it's a really cool idea to model such a machine with Lego. However, machining steel with plastic tools maybe isn't the best idea. So why not use ice as a material? It's a good substitute, just like Lego plates and bricks are a good substitute for real soil when it comes to playing with Lego construction machinery.
  14. 5imon
    Servos are in my car! Can't wait for finishing work and heading home for a building session!
  15. 5imon
    Interesting! How did you model the mudguards? Afaik, they are not available in any other set (and colour) so far. Since I also own the 42038 and many other sets, I could probably try to rebuild it myself.
  16. 5imon
    I voted okay-ish. As most supercars don't really touch me emotionally, this might be the case with every other supercar, too. What I kind of like about the GT is how the body gets narrower towards the back and thus forms a tunnel between it and the rear fenders. But they should definitely have omitted those pig's nostrils on the back. Besides the design, the colour is really cool!
  17. 5imon
    I don't think the 037 looks better. It is certainly a good rally car, but the design is not more than just functional. I prefer the fine lines and accentuated angles of the Montecarlo. But this is certainly a matter of taste. At least I'm happy about Ciapasty's choice ;-)
  18. 5imon
    I really have to look closer at this truck when I have some time. I always dream of coming closer to the function of hydropneumatic with Lego. Thanks for the tip Rockbrick. Thanks for the compliment Leocorno. But you have to be a bit patient for a few more days. I will get my new servos Wednesday, so afterwards I can finish the chassis. Then it's also time for the next photos.
  19. 5imon
    Cool! I always like to see italian and french cars from the 70es and 80es. I wonder how the body will turn out, I really dig these angular designs.
  20. 5imon
    After a little research, I found quite quickly the reason for the gear grinding in my drivetrain. This is how the transmission to the differentials was set up: The longitudinal driveshaft crosses under the differential and drives this via a 12T double bevel (on the driveshaft) and a 20T double bevel (just above, in front of the differential. The differential itself is barely visible behind this 20T. The problem was that the two gears are held on the two black #2 connectors that are not directly connected. Furthermore, the top #2 connector with the 20T can also easily be twisted on the two angled dark grey connectors on the side. But the worst thing was that those 2 connectors could easily be pulled out to the top, leading to this situation: So I created a new solution where the two gears are braced much tighter: I haven't implemented this yet, but I strongly hope this will increase the torque that can be transmitted. I guess that the weak point stays the axle pin that holds the 20T gear. It still allows an amount of flexing. I could use a 3L axle for the gear, but the end of the axle could not be fixed – next to the red connector on the picture is a pinhole of the servo motor which could guide the axle, but is closed at the back, so I can't fix the axle at the other end. I would have a "floating" axle with the gear that would only be held in position by the bevel gear of the differential. Maybe one of the experienced builders here have an idea which solution is better... Ideally, I'd have a 3L axle pin like the dark grey one that came out recently, but without friction. I guess with the friction, it would eat too much of the motor's torque.
  21. 5imon
    Wow! I'm not much into military machinery, but this one looks really good and realistic, especially in the outdoors shots. One of my TC6 favourites so far!
  22. 5imon
    Thanks for the encouraging words Jim! Actually, I'm not very afraid of entering the contest any more. As I have completed most of the technical part, it turned out that it works quite well and looks good, too. So my only sorrow now is that the body might become too ugly or too heavy... And in the end it's really about participating more than about winning. I've never built such a big model in a short time, so this alone is a completely new experience for me and lets me learn a lot. Plus following all the other entries is also very inspirational and instructive.
  23. 5imon
    Cool idea to use the return to center springy thingy and the servo combined. I have never seen this before. Also it seems that the shape will look quite good. I'm looking forward to the end result!
  24. 5imon
    I considered different options for driving the ride height. It had to be a servo because I wanted the system to have absolute height positions. This is difficult to achieve with M or other motors. I have now opted for an adjustable remote control for the height (and driving as well), so the height can be adjusted in finer steps and stays without holding the control all the time. In the end, the car is designed clearly with the use of sBrick in mind, and with this it's also possible to steer it in that way. Btw, I have almost finished a running chassis, but I have to implement some modifications against heavy gear grinding at the differentials. More pics soon...
  25. 5imon
    Wow, this is really an amazing model, completely off the beaten track. I like how realistic everything is done. The great side-by-side picture with the original shows this very well.
×
×
  • Create New...