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Everything posted by TheNextLegoDesinger
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hey guys, 2 years have passed now but i haven't been sitting still, i made multiple improvements of my original design. i wasn't able to build it without studded bricks, but i didn't use that many. i have now made a version that i am finaly truly satisfied with (altough i thought that of the last version to). when i got the Volvo front loader i wanted my trailer to be able to hold it and so it began, building frames , building multiple linking mechanisms and enlarging it over and over again. the trailer is 1 meters long, has 3 axles in the rear and is able to unlink at the neck of the trailer. It also has a pneumatic actuator to hold the neck when the trailer is not connected to a truck. this is al because of the link mecanism. it started with this one: it worked great, it was actually the best one, but it wasn't easy to disconect when the trailer was loaded. so after lengthing the trailer so it could house a 42030 or a 42042. i started searching for other ways to make the linking mechanism. i made a couple, like the ones used in real ones. but those didn't work as my trailer is a little bendy (but more on that later on). about 2 weeks ago, i found it, by having 2 pins locking underneath and 2 actuators pushing 2 pin's from above in the frame, i could clamp the front of the trailer onto the neck. this made that i could easily connect and disconect even if the trailer was loaded. Now onto that flexing part, well parts. Lego studded bricks are very strong and don't flex that much. also by using plates, you can easilly make very sturdy layers. This is why you see most lowboy trailers use studded bricks and some studless bricks to keep the studded bricks together. The biggest problem with studded bricks is that they wheigh a lot more. The second biggest problem for a newby like me who only playes with technics, you don't have a lot of pinholed studded bricks. This made me want to build a lowboy trailer without studded bricks. and i did it, altough it wasn't that good. it was about 60 cm long and it bended into the form of a banana when loaded. so back to the drawingboard. I made it stronger and stronger, but nothing helped. So i gave up, well sort of, i just started using as many long studded beams as i had, and that wasn't a lot. But it helped, instead of flexing around 10 cm, it flexed only 1 cm. this made it that my neck didn't have to angle that much. it now has an angle of around 25-30° to which is a bit extreme but it's acceptable. the frame is pretty simple, i used the big red plates, to make it lighter, and a platform at the rear to house more stuff. In the middle is the main frame i used a form of triangulation to make the mainframe stronger. To the side of that i have 2 strokes of studded bricks, this made it so that the frame was way stronger. In the state i've build it it is easily able to hold a load of 3 kg on the lower part of the trailer. On the back part you can put a lot more as it is directly on top of the wheels. More pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHsknrXtg2 feel free to demand extra pictures. Greetz, TNLD
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yeah, just dusted of my lego this weak and started to build again. When i saw this set for the first time i wasn't very pleasured but i like it more and more, though i won't buy it, being a student in engeneering i have to much other things to spend on :( still i build a trailer with al the pieces i have nice flatbed man
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Leopard 4x4
TheNextLegoDesinger replied to Zerobricks's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
wow very nice, although i don't think that winch is very sturdy, or is it? i always use a worm gear when making a winch, this makes that the motor pulls the winch and not the winch pulling the motor, if you get what i mean. i really like how you did the rear axle, wish i had some of those rc motors, i don't get why lego hasn't made a new version of it. Why won't you go out to test is, i always go to the woods when making crawlers, although mine really crawl because i only have XL motors. Greetz, TNLD PS: liked the hamster pun- 15 replies
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- zerobricks
- leopard
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i messed up with the video, it was 35 minutes of which 29 where black, it's almost fixed, i used a technique which is not hard to find on the forum. i used a bit of plastic to make the diff stronger and used 2 bevel gears instead of 1. altough i didn't had a diff lock, the pendular suspention did the trick
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IMG_20161226_142421106_HDR_edit by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr After designing my own 3D printed wheels I needed something to put them on, so i started to make a jeep. The axles where made fast but making a chassis that fits my demands was hard. Although it wasn't the hardest part, it took a lot of time. As the chassis was finnished i started making a body, because u can't have a car without a body. I chose to make a elevated body as it was easier and i am not a master in making a body. Eventualy, I ended up with a jeep with a flatbed IMG_20161226_142621723 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr Specifications: opening hood, doors and trunk fake "W12" engine interior Heavy duty 2 speed gearbox winch with directional gearbox pendular rear axle 7 studs central groundclearance 4 studs at lowest point (front axle) total wheight: 2390 gram chassis wheight: 863 gram body: 1248 gram motors: XL for drive Servo for steering M for gearshift M for winch M for fake engine gearbox: high gear: 34.8 RPM 60.9 N.cm low gear: 12.5 RPM 169.23 N.cm. Altough this beast wheighs more than 2 KG it can pull itself vertical up. Note that the chassis can be builded withought the body. This means you can ditch the engine bay which wheighs 560 grams. There is no central differential, but I had to implent a differential on the front axle in order to improve steering. Because i don't have a cental differential i had to fit a differential in the rear axle and because of that i made a new axle IMG_20161226_181600762_edit by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr thanks to its high groundclearance it can even go trough some creeks IMG_20161226_160255146 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr the day the video was it was slippery, as the video was shot i already had drove a lot. because of this the wheels were filled with dirt and were slippery. As this happend, it was already hard to get up a 30-35° angle. With the new tractor tires it would probrally gone better but i don't have them more pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHskNE4VCf my youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIYMoFhqHPboctgPosC56yA
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it a much better set for it's price but it all depends on what you want. if you want a lot of tracks and parts, get this one if you want something you can paly whit, it depends, they both have their pro's and con's if you want wheels and suspention parts, get 42056 if you want a beatiful building experience and a big coffee-tablebook, get 42056 ... i was about to buy the 42056 instead of this one but since the reviews, my intressed almost vanished. As i only have around 400€ each year to spend on lego, i am really leaving a lot of sets i want beside and i only go for those i really want. and as i can get this one and the 42055 and 42035 for the same money (42056 330€ here) i am probrally end up buying them and have the same pieces i want, tracks and suspention parts. if i had 1000€ each year i wouldn't mind spending 330€ on a set but now i would only have around 70€ left so i don't buy it. as i'm only 17 by the time these sets come in shops, there will still come sets like the 42056 around in my life which are much better IMHO just get the 42055 and 42053 if you want parts and suspention Greetz TNLD
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i really like it, m18 Hellcat is my favorite WOII tank. i like houw you captured the spirit of that thank. the speed is superb but maybe you could have made the truttet traverse a littlebit slower. another thing those gears above the wheelsshould have been smaller, maybe use 8 thooth gears and put the 1/3 of a stud higher or is that impossible?
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you're review made me wanna have it, but then i watched Sariel's and now i'm tottally confused again. i'm back on the page of choosing 42055 or 42056 i love the looks but i hate the price.
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This would only slow it down. Not good for a baja/trophy truck
- 36 replies
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- Trophy Truck
- Baja
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42039 C-Model
TheNextLegoDesinger replied to Madox003's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
OMG this is awsome -
i have a good one sadly it's 23studs wide and it doesn't have wheels. if i had to i would put a cabin and a 5th wheel on it and i have a truck IMG_20160524_181645656_HDR by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr
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- lego truck trial
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they aren't waterproof, i had a servo that broke down once, after a year, when i did this i tried it to and the servo works 99% fine there comes water inside but the motors( M/L/XL) have no problem with it (i noticed it when i opened one of them and there was dirt inside it)
- 47 replies
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- flex
- 4 L motors
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about the stars, its an optical illusion the arms are 1 stud thick so i was able to make the slopes as you see i edited the first post with the stl pics. the inside is around 0.5-1mm smaller than the normal ones. but still enough place. i think it will work, but i don't have them. with this print it has an inside diameter of little less than 6 studs, but because my teachers printer isn't that precize i the version you'll get will be 6 studs