Tommy Styrvoky

I have tried to use a subtractor/adder in the past but when the model was just a chassis it had problems ( grinding and clicking of gears,low amount of torque) and this model will weigh roughly 7-9 Lbs. so I'm afraid that will break differentials/single bevels.

I have begun working on a 1/15th TIger I Ausf E and i thought about putting a transmission in it , but after building a 3 speed sequential transmission and installed it. I am beginning to worry there won't be enough space for a compressor, turret ring traverse, battery box ,and a mechanism with adders for the engine to simulate a increase in idling speed when driving forwards. I have used a transmission in 2 other tanks ( it was a 2 speed) it seemed to cause a trivial effect in speed/torque. If I use a 12:20 ratio or 8:24 ratio for my drive sprockets from a XL and a IR speed remote. I think that would be better than a bulky 3 speed transmission.

full instructions here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/389249

You could use a switch and have a servo motor choose the direction instead of a IR reciver.

looks like a ok model with quite a few features, also has some nice parts like diff and tracks.

Does anyone know of a compact transmission where the output will only spin one direction. I have attempted to make a ratchet based transmission but it has problems with gears meshing. if possible a 1:1 ratio for it ?

just connect both cables for the motors to one slot on the receiver, just make sure that the motors turn the same direction.

i added a video

are there any compact alternatives for moving drive rings ?

Lego TOG II 1/35 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr well this was a compact build that was fun to do. instructions here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/389249 more information and pics here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/389024

added a video

I Think used some of my parents red and white bricks in there too and some of the blue was given to my by my cousin and that was from some of the ice planet series.

Lego STuG Ausf. F 1/15 (RC) Girls und Panzer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr its all about dat 3 tone vibrant camo well this was a fun build that allowed me to differentiate from my current color scheme and rebuild my first tank in a way more accurate version. more pics here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/388921

THis would have to be one of my worst builds in the past couple years. the proportions were wrong, the suspension was unrealistic, drive sprockets were at the rear when they were supposed to be in the front, gun elevated too quickly, covered with studs and finally worst of all it required modified 1 long axles for the suspension. a new rebuilt updated version. (below) Lego STuG Ausf. F 1/15 (RC) Girls und Panzer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

I tried working on a churchill bridgelayer but I couldn't get a linear actuator or winch that was strong enough to lift it. I vote for a tracked vehicle.

Awesome build, It is really compact and contains a lot.

Looks useful

Looks like it might have rear suspension.

Wouldn't the bottom fall out of the custom made LA. or the sides will collapse under weight .

This may seem slightly off-topic but when my linear actuators are at their maximum extrnsion the rods on them are a bit wobbly.

How strong are the wheels (if you go over a bump will they disinigrate)?

I undecided right now, the nice part is that I can build the chassis and then determine what vehicle to build. Though I still have a month and a half to figure stuff out. Also for the tracks should I use 5 wide ones because of on the scaled version it is 4 wide and I think that 5 wide works best with my current overlapped roadwheels system?

might change my mind and build a 9/1 variant instead

i think that if you make the chassis 5 studs longer it would be possible to have torsion bars because the swing arms for the torsion bars would be too short for the current length of the chassis (they would have a minimal effect in flotation). With longer swing arms ad the longest torsion bars you could get them to work but to fit them in the hull it would be best to offset one side of road wheels so the torsion bars can be staggered like on real vehicles . heres 2 examples of times where I have implemented torsion bars the panther had 8 stud long bars with 4x2 lift arms as the swing arms. it weighs 7LBs the STuG III thats in front has 10 long torsion bars with 4x2 lift arms as the swing arms. weight is composed of 1 AA battery box, and 2 XL motors Lego STuG Ausf. F 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

well basically you have pneumatic cylinders on each axle axle and they are attached to the suspension. so when you use a valve to control what part of the air ride system receives air and that lifts the desired wheel/axle. You can choose to have different wheels being controlled by valves, all wheels being controlled by 1 valve or paired axles that can be actuated by a valve. With the set you are planning to use as a base for it i think that a mechanical version would be better fit because you don't need a compressor, and large cylinders.