Lasse D

Update: See final model in the last post of this thread. This is a scale 1:20 (Legoland Miniland scale) BMW M8 GTE. I built this car for Le Mans in 2018 and brought it to the race for some pictures because, why not. The car was initially built from pictures and size information available before the big race. This is why it has a big ///M-logo on the roof. As always I have been using Griddy for the design and this was the setup I was using during the initial design: Stickers and updated pictures became available shortly before Le Mans and I had just enough time to remove the ///M logo and get stickers made before leaving for the race. There was no time for a nice picture of the car before leaving, but here it is right in front of the real deal: And we were also allowed out on the track itself on the Friday before the race. Here it is together with the other GTE PRO race cars next to the historical Dunlop bridge Now. The thread title says [WIP] instead of [MOC]. This is because I have only been spending 3 weeks on the car before it was brought to Le Mans in 2018. Now I want to improve it before making building instructions as has been done with most of the other cars (only the Vantage and M8 are currently not done). One of the details I want to improve is the front. The "hood" on the real car has a significant slope. In the LEGO model that should translate into a lowering of the headlights. In order to do this I have reduced the height of the lower assembly from 2 to 1 brick in height: I also want to see if it is possible to make a more realistic headlight design. Option 1 is this one with 1x1 plates with tooth in trans black, while another option could be what you see on the other side: I am personally partial toward the original headlight design as it looks more "BMW like", but I would love for others to give their input and nudge me in the right direction of this design which has been bothering me for... well 2 years now. Update on July 7, 2020 I have decided on continuing with a version that combines the trans black side as shown above with the original headlight design. This allows for the inside of the headlights to curve together, while the outside remains "BMW-like". Continuing with the sides. These are mostly carried over from the original design. The main changes here are the lower black trim pieces and the sides being pushed half a plate outward. The height is a massive change, as can be seen by placing the two cars with their noses next to one another One of my main challenges with the front is to get the fenders right. I might add 1x6 tiles over the wheels to recreate the sloping hood of the real car. The center of the hood also needs a complete overhaul with the angular ///M lines while maintaining the aero elements. The next update will most likely first be in 2 weeks, but any suggestions are as always welcome. Update on August 2, 2020 The new model is complete. It is now time to compare it to the previous model and the real deal. Starting with the front. Here The new model has the lower projectors reduced in height. This allows the whole nose to be lower, but also requires a sloping front end. I think the new nose is more accurate, and the change to the hood and fenders is acceptable. Ideally I would have smoother slope. The windscreen now contains a windscreen wiper (good), but my attempt at using wedge plates and staggered 1x2 black tiles has resulted in some unsightly gaps (bad) Moving to the top view, the roof has received additional detailing, such as antennae, grilles and an intake as on the real race car. Unfortunately my attempt at using a SNOT roof has caused the white lines to be too close together, and upper line of the side windows no longer flows as nicely. The graphics on the nose have been simplified. I prefer the simplified version, as the old one was a bit too blocky with the coloring. The colored lines neat the mounts for the rear wing have been reduced, as BMW updated the livery a bit before the cars raced at Le Mans. Even though the old version looks cooler, the new one is more accurate. The rear is almost all new. The design of the diffuser has been updated after clearer pictures arose, allowing me to build it more accurately. The size and shape of the rear lights is also more accurate now, while there is a small upper lip in the bodywork which has been included from the real car (not visible in these two pictures) The shaping of the front fenders and how they join the center of the car has been redesigned to be less blocky. This also allowed proper repositioning of the side mirrors. I will get back to the drawing, I mean, building board.

I have downloaded it recently and tried to make it work on MacOS. However. It seems like it doesn't work anymore. I get the following error: *** Terminating app due to uncaught exception 'OC_PythonException', reason: '<class 'AssertionError'>: Unknown device with id 66 being attached (port 70' *** First throw call stack: ( 0 CoreFoundation 0x00007fff3cf59acd __exceptionPreprocess + 256 1 libobjc.A.dylib 0x00007fff6765da17 objc_exception_throw + 48 2 CoreFoundation 0x00007fff3cf73629 -[NSException raise] + 9 3 _objc.cpython-38-darwin.so 0x000000010e3988fe PyObjCErr_ToObjCWithGILState + 46 4 _objc.cpython-38-darwin.so 0x000000010e390c64 -[OC_PythonObject forwardInvocation:] + 708 5 CoreFoundation 0x00007fff3cefb67e ___forwarding___ + 780 6 CoreFoundation 0x00007fff3cefb2e8 _CF_forwarding_prep_0 + 120 7 CoreBluetooth 0x00007fff3c9d7ed4 -[CBPeripheral handleAttributeEvent:args:attributeSelector:delegateSelector:delegateFlag:] + 239 8 CoreBluetooth 0x00007fff3c9d800e -[CBPeripheral handleCharacteristicEvent:characteristicSelector:delegateSelector:delegateFlag:] + 115 9 CoreBluetooth 0x00007fff3c9d3a7e -[CBPeripheral handleMsg:args:] + 297 10 CoreBluetooth 0x00007fff3c9ce368 -[CBCentralManager handleMsg:args:] + 198 11 CoreBluetooth 0x00007fff3c9c97db __30-[CBXpcConnection _handleMsg:]_block_invoke + 53 12 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68dde5f8 _dispatch_call_block_and_release + 12 13 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68ddf63d _dispatch_client_callout + 8 14 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68de58e0 _dispatch_lane_serial_drain + 602 15 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68de63c6 _dispatch_lane_invoke + 433 16 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68de5792 _dispatch_lane_serial_drain + 268 17 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68de6396 _dispatch_lane_invoke + 385 18 libdispatch.dylib 0x00007fff68dee6ed _dispatch_workloop_worker_thread + 598 19 libsystem_pthread.dylib 0x00007fff6901f611 _pthread_wqthread + 421 20 libsystem_pthread.dylib 0x00007fff6901f3fd start_wqthread + 13 ) libc++abi.dylib: terminating with uncaught exception of type NSException Abort trap: 6 And the versions of software are: bleak 0.6.4 bricknil 0.9.3 curio 1.2

I had a similar issue, and had also been away for a year, and I simply created a new account. Controllers at SBrick are fairly simple, so I don't mind making them from scratch.

Thanks. I'm glad that you like it. The fountain, however, seems to have stolen the show. It has received 3 times as many replies as when I presented the bouncy castle!

Thanks you. I'm glad that you like it. I have finally finished the building instructions for the trailer: https://brickhub.org/i/607 In the video I show how the trailer compares to the 12 years old one, and how they both interact with the SBrick-controlled truck. It is clear that the new mechanism is both a lot quicker and easier to use than the old motorised one. I also show hot to change the battery (another operation which has been made much easier) and how the rear lift gate operates. The reason it tool me so long to create building instructions was a combination of me learning to use LDCad, and the fact that this trailer is quite unconventional in its construction. This is the progress after 2 evenings of work: And then again each of the next 4 days: In order to prepare for these instructions I have updated buildinginstructions.js to detect when LDCad creates generated parts so that they show as parts (and not as models due to the .ldr suffix). Also. The website brickhub.org now shows the glow-in-the-dark parts as glowing when you turn the light down: So all in all the instructions ended up being a 14 day project. On the positive side, all building instructions created in LDCad should from now on show correctly on the website, and if you create something with glow-in-the-dark elements, then they should also work. Who would be interested in a new US style truck for the next model team model?

That would be awesome, as I do not recall who told me the story of the price. It was most likely during one of those tours in Billund from way before LEGO House. The comment regarding nationality was because you shouted (used many exclamation marks) in your initial response where you mentioned Hungary. Intend doesn't translate into text. I had not brought up any points regarding nations or legal points, so I just wanted to make it clear that I don't have any ill thoughts about anyone because of their nationality.

Is this forum still moderated, or have the rules changed?

How come you didn't quote the price of the micromotor, you know, the only motor I was specifically referring to? My comment was not an attack on your national identity. It was insights into the problems that LEGO was faced with back in the days where they nearly went bankrupt. Notice also how I said it was one of the issues - not THE single issue. Big companies rarely fail due to a single problem. And if you want to point out the leading problem, then I would claim it was the juniorization of the product line which drove customers away. However. That can only be a claim on my side - I do not have any insights to back up that this is the leading issue, only that it appears to be the worst.

Theme Park Fountain

My entry to the Eurobricks Flower Show is this fountain from the classic 1995* PlayStation game "Theme Park": The fountain has moving elements as shown in this short video (1 minute): In order to stay true to the original design, I have limited the amount of flowers to a little handful of water-lilys. Apart from the blue water and moving elements, the model consists of a lot of SNOT, such as in how the smaller lower basin is constructed. I have tried many different construction techniques for the falling water between the basins, including Bionicle claws and various designs with cones. The solution with lightsabre blades seems to work the best. You can see the construction techniques in detail in the building instructions here: https://brickhub.org/i/604 Alright. So [MOC] and [EBFS] makes sense, but what is [MMM]? you might ask. Well. Right now it is not much. I have tried to create a new standard for showing moving minifigs in City layouts since 2016. Until now the modules I have made have been a complete failure, but it finally seems like I have found something that resembles a usable standard. Here is a short introduction: MMM stands for "Moving Minifig Machine". MMM consists of modules, such as this basic straight one: Or this corner module: The fountain is an "MMM Gadget" which fits into the "gadget slot" of the standard modules: There are two gadget slots in the straight module, but only the left one has the power take-off for the fountain: I think it will all make more sense when seeing how it all works together in this video: *Originally released for DOS in 1994, but I only have the PlayStation version from 1995, so that is where the graphics are from.

Allow me to finally introduce a project that has been a source of many sleepless nights, frighteningly advanced hair loss, and multiple failures since 2016: Moving Minifig Machine Like GBC, "MMM" consists of modules. The module in this thread is a Mindstorms-powered fun fair ride where the minifigs move in, jump, and then leave. See the short introduction here: The idea was born at a LEGO event. The audience always loves GBC, but most builders prefer to build city layouts. MMM is an attempt at combining the movement from GBC with minifig-scaled buildings. Modules are based on raised base plates. This allows for the conveyors and mechanical components (such as a Mindstorms NXT as seen in this module). The front wall allows the builder to showcase the name of the module. It can also be left blank as seen in the adjacent modules, or you can tape printouts onto them with some interesting information of the modules. See building instructions for standard modules here: https://brickhub.org/i/themes.php?theme=MMM The design of this module is based on the classic game Theme Park by Bullfrog which was released in 1994. The "graphics" of the modules I have built are form the 1995 port to the Playstation. This screenshot is from the DOS version: You can see a very fancy version of the in-game model in the cut scene at 8:17 of this video: The module uses a single L-motor for the two tracks. It uses a mechanical "diode" to make the outer track go in a single direction, while the other can change direction. I show it in detail in this update: An NXT motor is used to raise and lower the jumping pillow, while the walls move in and out. Finally, an M-motor is hidden in the "pillow" to move the tracks on it that connect with the outer track at an angle which allows for entry and exit that works fairly reliably. You can see me testing it in this video: I have tried a variety of designs for the pillow which would allow it to be built in red. Designs include rolling cylinders and free-spinning wheels. All of these attempts failed horribly, and I decided on compromising with a gray pillow. I know it is not much, but I hope that you can see the idea behind this. The project might fail - it has done so many times - but I also think it has potential. I have more modules planned and hope that you will enjoy the presentation of them. And if you think that I'm exaggerating when I say 2016, I must begrudgingly say that it is true. Here is an unlisted video of the layout as it were in 2016. The modules have since then been redesigned:

Yeah. You probably have a small fortune on your hands there since these are made on official equipment and with LEGO logos. Fun fact about the micromotor. These were unbelievably expensive to produce. The micromotor did in some sets cost LEGO more to produce than what the set was sold for! Mismanagement of funds like this was one of the reasons for the financial troubles in the late '90s and early '00s. Even the Technic space shuttle was sold at a loss! LEGO has since then introduced strict control of production cost for all of their parts, and the price of some parts even vary based on color.

Here is the latest version of the Renault Magnum. It is nearly identical to the previous one, but instead of the expensive PFx components it has a normal Power Functions receiver and a pair of lights: Building instructions for the new Magnum with Power Functions can be found here: https://brickhub.org/i/596 The truck and trailer in full: The main change from the previous Renault Magnum is up top where the Power Functions receiver peeks out: And the roof can be opened to grand access: Other changes include the design of the headlights to accommodate the Power Functions lights: and for the building instructions the full coloring of the truck changes with your selection. I show a couple of alternate colors in the video. As for the trailer, it is now complete in the first "prototype" version. As seen in the video, the legs and decoupler work extremely well, and you can also see the Glow In Dark effect as highlighted previously. It seems to not be suffering from the whole floor being upside down. The main work will be done on the rear opening and lift mechanism: The top opens, but doesn't close completely - this is one of the things I want to fix. The lift can go up and down, but I would like the closing mechanism to work better so that the cheese slope is not necessary for guiding it closed. Here the two Coke trailers can be seen together for comparison: I expect the next update will be with an improved trailer. But I would also like to make a proper truck for it.

Yeah. Friendly chap. I discussed the module with him on facebook where he initially had some issues getting it to be reliable. He has found that the GBC balls from PV Productions do not work in this module due to the fine balancing of the ball catch above the tipper. I can only recommend to use balls or marbles with the same dimension as official LEGO elements.

That makes more sense. Thanks for explaining. I agree that it would be nice with elements that allowed us to recreate the real thing more accurately. Specifically, we need smaller planetary gears. The existing options of Power Miners drill, turn tables and banana gears are not really useable. The real 10 speed AT in the car I'm building has 4 planetary gears - all in line:

Yeah, I mention the cars in the cars with 10 speed transmissions in the video and point out the Mustang specifically in the description on the instructions page. You are now the second to point out that it isn't realistic... and I find that criticism a bit baffling. Of course it isn't realistic. I never claimed this to be a scale model. It is a LEGO creation: It is made out of plastic. Gears are straight cut. It uses dog clutches, has a mechanical shifter mechanism and in no way was it claimed to resemble an actual gearbox. It is just like most other LEGO gearboxes, including those in official licensed sets. Real automatic transmissions are made out of metal, have helical gears, consist mainly of planetary gearsets and are computer controlled with either electric or hydraulic brakes on components of the planetary gears in order to create the gear ratios. I mean. See what I had to build in order to create a 39/25 reduction. In real life that gearing would be achieved by using two gears. It is like saying that the fake engine isn't realistic because it has a flat plane crank shaft, whereas the real car has a cross pane crank shaft, that there is no camshaft, no starter motor, no oil pump, no fuel injection system, etc. Is there something that I am missing here?

Thanks grego18f. I was unaware of the new Scania S line. It is not in my immediate backlog. My plan is to branch out to another couple of brands first.

One of the things I want to get right in the new Coke trailer is the border of lights - or in the case of the LEGO model - border og Glow in the Dark. See it in action in this short 9 seconds video:

Thanks for the feedback. Do you really not think that automakers will put 10 speed transmissions into cars eventually? I think putting a 10 speed into something like a Mustang would give it pretty good acceleration - even with the less powerful engines. Or how about a big Luxury Cruiser where 10 speeds could be used to select just the right overdrive gear while cruising down route 500. I think it sounds realistic.

Designer Lasse Deleuran Manual Sequential Special features Lockout between 10th and reverse gear. Park locks up the drivetrain. Number of gears 10 + P + R

This is a gearbox meant for scale 1:8 cars. It has 10 forward gears, park and reverse. See it in action in this video: For demo purposes I attach a fake engine and a rear section which shows how the driven wheels turn: These are also included in the building instructions if you want to try for yourself. The instructions are available here: https://brickhub.org/i/594 As explained in the video it uses a center differential in order to get just a single reverse gear and a single park "gear". I call it park instead of neutral as the gearbox is locked up when in that gear. Neutral would mean that the rear wheels are free running. The gear ratios are: Gear ratios (1 : X): R: -0.3 P: 0 1: 0.42 2: 0.6 3: 0.9 4: 1.2 5: 1.62 6: 1.8 7: 2.7 8: 3 9: 3.42 10: 3.6 And by changing the final gear, all ratios can be subject to a multiplier of your own choice. And speaking of multipliers. The gearbox has a 3 speed and a 4 speed transmission like those from the Chiron. And earlier version had two 4 speed transmissions. This, however, didn't allow for the Park and Reverse gears. For those to work I needed the following subtractor: I don't know how to fit that into a car, so I'm glad that the final design has ratios that actually work. In the video I go through the design process in detail and also give tips to others who want to design their own gearboxes, should they want to follow this approach. The instructions are in public domain and I will submit it to the gearbox thread:

Hi @StudWorks, I realize that no one got around to answer you, so I hope that you have made some progress without help. Since that part of the grille is surrounded by the angular chrome sections, you can leave it flat and it should look just fine. This allows you to make the whole section stronger and keep the sensor. This in turn should make it easier to angle and reinforce the important bits - those being the the chrome surrounds. There is an LC500 parked in the underground parking garage where I live, so if there are details that you would like close-ups of, then please just ask. This is, in my humble opinion, the most beautiful car currently being produced, so I would love to see LEGO versions of it. Unfortunately it is also remarkably difficult to recreate in LEGO due to the crazy angles and unique design elements that don't really lend themselves to LEGO.

The new Coke Trailer is slowly being built. Each mosaic takes 3-4 days to complete, so progress is sloooow. The new trailer has 2 M-motors hidden between the wheels and the lift is operated using the two small linear actuators. Getting all this, as well as the decoupler mechanism, hidden in there was a huge challenge, but it seems to work! Here is the current state of the trailer - pictures taken earlier today: As you can see, I am trying with an all-white logo and a slimmer santa-logo design. The all-white logo is easier to read up-close, while the old dithered logo looks better when you see from afar. With the mechanism of the new trailer being mostly outside of the box, the PF remote is quite visible. It will be interesting to see if I can make the lifting mechanism work together with a top-linked gate as seen in the old trailer.

Thanks for all of the great support Eurobricks. You were a bit too shy to comment, but Youtube tells me that I received a lot of views for here. The video is the first one I have made in quite a while which has reached 1000 views. And as promised, I have made building instructions for the model due to reaching this landmark. You can get the instructions here: https://brickhub.org/i/593 This is the model as rendered on brickhub.org: I couldn't find the right torso in LDraw, so I took one that also fits. The torso I use in the video comes from the Dr. Who set.

Nice. I will have to look into that set. It seems to have a lot of great parts. Thanks for the link for more information. From the pictures it seems like this is a symbol that you use a lot for ornaments in Malaysia.