Lasse D

My theory: Money. I have two Town Halls - one of them has a pair of brides, and the other a pair of grooms on the steps. They stood so for years before getting rebuilt into something else. And LEGO sold two town halls to a single customer. It is the same with this new set. You get so few arches in each color that you have to purchase multiple if you want to build certain models in these colors.

Get building instructions for this model here: https://brickhub.org/i/742 This is a giant bunny mech was among the models that Esben and I built for the evil kids in the "Super Heroes VS Villains" episode of LEGO Masters Denmark. There are also a lot of other toys - all with building instructions on brickhub.org Some of these toys are UCS Star Wars models that the judge of the show had designed Unfortunately only the Star Destroyer made it to the show since we didn't yet know if he also had designed the Tantive IV. It turns out that he has, so there are also instructions for it. The mech is controlled from the head and uses light bricks for lighting up the eyes The model is also posable and has details, such as the stumpy tail All of the toys are supposed to look as gruesome as possible. I think that we achieved that goal!

This is the "surfer dude" from the fourth episode of LEGO Masters Denmark There are building instructions for the model here: https://brickhub.org/i/741 The model is posable so that you can make him ride the waves just how you want him to: I have tried to include a lot of fun building techniques into this model. As an example, I use half-plate offsetting in the surf board to make a smooth shape, bananas for hair, and 1x2 log pieces for the six pack. The tattoo on the chest is there because the host of the show thought the model looked like him, and he has a tattoo right there - so naturally we had to include that detail as well :D

The main problem I have with the scale models is that they take a very, very, very long time to build. For instance, my CT200h took 4 years to complete with several months dedicated to the model. The amazing tug boats and other models shown in the forum might take even longer to construct. Having models that take months seems to be the norm, and with so few builders making content, it is clear why the amount of new content is limited.

In the third episode of LEGO Masters in Denmark we built fairground rides. I want to share building instructions for each episode where Esben and I participate, and this week we built and airport themed section of the fun fair. See building instructions for the models here: https://brickhub.org/i/themes.php?theme=LEGO+Masters The toilet is themed as those red and white buildings you see on the runways of real airports It even has an accessible stall, and full interior, of course: For visitors I invented a way of creating wheelchairs using the parts available. I am very happy with the result, even though these are not the most complicated of models We also had some crazy big rides. Sharing building instructions for those would have been futile, so I transformed our grand ferris wheel into this swing It goes all the way around: Esben and I are safe for the next round where I also want to share a building instruction with you :)

Thanks. I unfortunately do not know of any legal ways of watching it outside of Denmark. It will have to be TV networks that pick it up. And they will only do so if we build something really extraordinary... so we will try just that!

LEGO Masters episode 2 aired in Denmark yesterday. In that program we built fairy tales from H.C. Andersen. The fairy tale Esben and I got was The Steadfast Tinsoldier Esben and I have a promised of sharing as much as possible from this program. We are making streams with "behind the scenes" and interviews of other contestants. Unfortunately these streams are in Danish. However. I am also creating building instructions. This week the instructions are of the two models above. Get them for free here: https://brickhub.org/i/735 https://brickhub.org/i/736 I have changed the base of the ballerina a bit compared to the models shown on TV. Creating a shelf would not work as well as a standalone model. Special building techniques in these models include using strings for the ballet shoes, and feathers for the skirt.

Thanks. This was the very first episode out of 8. This was a 12 hour challenge + 3 hours to destroy the builds and create escape vehicles. In my team we tried to surprise the judge by being able to build as much as possible, have as many fun stories, movements and mechanisms as possible, while still keeping it somewhat realistic. In the three hours we even managed to build a biplane which spanned the entire surface: Seen here flown by the host. Pictures taken from LEGO MASTERS/TV2

Thanks for your encouraging comments. I will keep sharing building instructions as long as we stay in the game.

The first episode of LEGO Masters Denmark has now aired. I am one of the participants, and I want to share some models from the show - and at least one building instruction from something in each episode. For the first episode the model is Dynamite Mansion There are building instructions for the model here: https://brickhub.org/i/732 See it in action in the first couple of seconds of this video (the rest requires that you turn on subtitles) The building: In the Danish LEGO masters we were asked to inhabit an island. Esben and I chose to build our side in old LEGO Western style. The house here has springs to explode one of the walls. When the wall flies out, the second floor collapses. While the robbers want to see a safe flow out, reality is a bit different: The robbers are attacking from several angles: The robbers would honestly be a bit disappointed if they got to the safe:

Thanks all. I'm glad that you like it. And please tell me if you want to see a LEGO version of the hybrid system with a 2 speed transmission, such as in GS450h or LS600h.

This is my near 1:1 scale model of the second generation hybrid transaxle from Toyota, which is also used by Lexus and Suzuki, and similar to the system used by Ford. I explain all of the components in this video, where I also show how it reflects the power flows when driving a hybrid car with this system. For this video I use the Lexus CT200h because... that's the one I have. This is the full model: In one end we have the 1.8 liter inline 4 piston engine: The model is rather simple. There are no counterweights on the crankshaft, no oil pan, no valvetrain... etc. It pretty much just consists of the crankshaft, cylinders, conrods and pistons. The pistons are, however, almost of the right bore: and the stroke is also almost right. I am using the small 1x1 round tiles because the curved slopes have sharp edges that make the pistons jam within the cylinders: The flywheel is super simple and bolts right onto the crankshaft: In a real car there is what appears to be a clutch. It is, however, not a clutch. It is a damper with some springs that allow for a small amount of travel between the two sides. This is my not-very-accurate LEGO version of it: The magic happens in the power split device which is flanked by the two motor/generators: The LEGO model is powered by Power Functions motors: In the center there are two planetary gears which are joined from the ring gears: In the video I show how these components work together. My hope is that this can help demystify the internals of the most popular hybrid system in the World. Many people think the hybrid system is rather complex, and Toyota doesn't help with its misleading "eCVT" naming. In reality this system has fewer moving parts than a DCT, slush-box automatic transmission or even manual, since there is no clutch, no traditional torque converter and no "real transmission".

Yeah, that is typically the case of contest, unless there are explicit constraints. My own experience is also that the kids at first sight prefer modules with non-ball-lifting gadgets. As an example, my "easter bunny" module is amazingly popular at events due to the cute bunny: However. Kids that stay at the GBC layout seem to fall in love with the more intricate modules once they become bored of the pretty gadgets.

As a GBC builder I surprisingly voted "no". This is due to my experience with GBC contests in the past, and the way that I see the comments are heading in this thread. GBC contests often favour nice "gadgets" over more technically impressive modules due to the audience (and for contests the audience also becomes the judges). I have blatantly exploited this, and with great success, whenever I have brought new GBC modules to events where there have been competitions involving GBC. But honestly this is not fair: GBC should encourage new and inspiring ways of moving balls... and this is also why you see Akiyuki being so popular - he is really inventive! But would a module by him win against a huge "rainbow" module where the lifting mechanism is a simple stepper, while the rest of the module is huge, impressive, vote harvesting, and ultimately not-ball-lifting MOC? Another problem I see already with this competition is that you are talking about deviating from the GBC standard (such as different types of balls being used). Deviating from the GBC standard makes modules less likely to be used in events. We already have issues with existing modules that are not able to accept badges, or do not deliver 1 ball per minute (thus slowing the whole circuit), and it would be a shame to see so much effort into designing new modules be wasted since the modules cannot be used in circuits. Designing a module to use Bionicle balls, for instance, would not work with normal GBC since the 14mm standard balls go through a 2 stud wide gap, while the Bionicle balls do not.

I have made a simple mod for the cartridge mechanism, so that it doesn't jam as much. This fix is fairly easy to implement. Unfortunately it is still possible for it to fail when parts in the mechanism start pulling from each other. Another switch mechanism is most likely needed for something that is 100% fool proof. Still, this works much better than the standard mechanism if you are one of us who is having problems with it.

It is a good idea with hard tires in order to mitigate the issue. I have not found a pretty solution yet, but I like the idea of using chain links... They would be like reverse snow chains! Oh, this model is very far from being accurate to the real thing. Having the wheels be correct would be nice, but I have no hope of getting a string-based lifting system to work. Here in January I unfortunately don't have access to my collection. I am, however, so satisfied with how the spreader works, that I have made building instructions for it: https://brickhub.org/i/709 It can be made prettier with end caps: https://brickhub.org/i/708 but as explained in this video, end caps make it unusable when trying to stack containers back-to-back:

What a breathtaking design! I wish you the best of luck getting the real version built, and I am looking forward to see it. And now that you are taking on a very expensive build, I would also love to see the exhaust in the back be chromed - it is a great detail of from the real car.

I am explaining how it is supposed to work at 3:01 in this video: In the video I also show the tracked version in action. The major change from the wheeled version is fo course... The NXT motors fit in nicely. I'm sure PF and PU motors would do too. The reason I am using NXT motors is that I want to make it "smart" and either be able to pick up containers automatically, or be remote controlled using Bluetooth devices. For now it is powered by PF since it is super easy and quick to implement for testing. The spreader has been updated: The red liftarm is the crucial part that makes the mechanism work. I causes the "clicking" mechanism that makes the fingers in the corners lock and unlock. I will make a separate post with how this works. The lifting mechanism is super simple: The white wheels cause the spreader to stop in top and bottom positions without destroying the parts. Now I will look at that new simpler error-correcting steering mechanism for the red wheeled version.

Holy moly Miha! Your straddle carrier looks amazing! You are clearly going for an ultra-realistic look with the lifting mechanism, how the spreader is able to pull out and just overall aesthetics. It pains me that it did not succeed. I have made some tests, and I have bad news. The slack in LEGO pieces makes the legs stray to the sides or inwards even when the steering is locked in the straight position! For this reason active steering adjustment is necessary, and not even a 6-wheeled approach with single-purpose wheels will work. @pleegwathas mentioned using Mindstorms, but it is not that easy to detect and account for the legs straying to the sides. My latest attempt is the following: I am using the gray frames to "error-correct" the steering. The idea is that when the legs stray outward, the gray frames (not being connected to the legs) will pull the steering so that the wheels turn inward. Similarly they will correct to the other side when the legs go inward. Unfortunately the steering is too heavy, and this approach does not work either: The issue seems to be the complexity of the steering. The rotating sections in the middle cause Ackerman steering geometry to be introduced, but they also seem to be cause too much slack and resistance. I will give it a last try with an even simpler steering mechanism. I'm glad that I am not the only one who got that idea! I thought the same, and was about to build a super rigid top section. However. It is the spreader which causes the main rigidity of the legs, since it is far lower placed. Unfortunately the soft nature of the liftarms makes the whole structure very flexible even with the spreader in the lowest position! I have tested your theory by locking the steering and all the wheels were in the neutral/straight position. Even like this, the legs strayed to the sides as seen in the first picture. Having an ultra-rigid superstructure might help with this, but then we would be talking about something like 9 studs wide solid legs. I am instead looking at another alternate approach: I know this throws realism out of the window, but I would like to see if I can make the model work so that it is fun to play with.

I'm so happy that the rules allow for a Segway, Velo Solex, and even the Gyro-X!

It is great to see this type of "dual lifting" mechanism again. Lego did it 8415, but I like the look of your far more. Good presentation video too.

And is easier to turn on and off for new users who just want to use a remote with the basic hub. But then there are all of the disadvantages of, and oh boy! Range of remote, number of channels, servo motor limited angle and position, etc. If anything, a petition should be made for interoperability like PF has the 9V adaptors in all extension cables, NXT is compatible with EV3 and has 9V adaptor cables, etc.

Alright. I have to change my position again and agree to disagree. The photo is used to show the differences in length-wise offsets for the positioning of the wheels, windscreen and other design elements. The slight difference in angle is negligible and the picture can absolutely be used for a comparison of the two.

No. I hate to disagree, so I will have to change my mind and agree with you that the wheels should be even bigger. This is a long thread, so it is understandable that you didn't want to browse back. For this reason I am reposting the picture I used to prove that the wheels are already too big. Now that we agree that the wheels should be even bigger, how big do you think they should be?

If you look back in the thread, you can see that the wheels are too big!