Jump to content

ScottishDave

Eurobricks Citizen
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    366

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ScottishDave

  1. ScottishDave
    I believe the part used was 85941. It’s a slightly longer version of the half cylinder part.
  2. ScottishDave
    This group? https://www.facebook.com/groups/saturnvmods/. Fortunately, it's public, so anyone can browse it, even if they aren't a Facebook user. And would that be the PDF uploaded by David Welling on 24 Jun at 15:29? I can't check this link because I'm not on Facebook, but I think this should work: https://www.facebook.com/groups/saturnvmods/374219386316652/
  3. ScottishDave
    @DanNeely Sadly no. The quarter cylider 30562 is a bomb which has already exploded. You need 14 of them. One rattle-can of plactic-specific orange-brown paint cost me £14.... it's probably the same in dollars or euros. You do the maths.
  4. ScottishDave
    @SheldonF I painted a few pieces which I couldn't get hold of any other way using RAL 8023 Orange-brown paint. It is a very close match to the lego colour. It looks perfectly fine in normal light conditions. White is also a valid colour for the tank, by the way. Early missions had tanks which were painted white until NASA realised that it made no difference to heat-shielding, and that they could save a few tonnes of weight by leaving out the paint.
  5. ScottishDave
    Thank you very much @KingsKnight! That's fantastic. So many areas where I'm now saying, "Oh, so THAT'S how it was built!" Why the newer clips on the cargo door hinges? Is it because the old style clips are too stiff?
  6. ScottishDave
    @Frenk512 Thank you very much for the breakdown of your docking port design. It's an even better design than the tank tracks that I'm currently using: Just one question - how fragile is it? Does it tend to fall apart if you take it off and put it on again?
  7. ScottishDave
    That looks like it’ll work just fine. my own solution was to use the pearl grey one from the Saturn set. They don’t look too bad: but if that colour really bothers you, then this is good.
  8. ScottishDave
    That really does look a lot simpler. Are the stacks of 1 x 2 bricks sturdy enough? In place of the red 1 x 5 technic plates, why not try an old 4-bladed propeller: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3461#T=C This is what I used throughout. They obviously don't lock to the central axle, but it passes through them and they lock even more securely (and simply) to the sides.
  9. ScottishDave
    Shiva, thank you for the connector idea. I've tried it and it works beautifully.
  10. ScottishDave
    Yes, and I put long axles in the boosters also. There is still a weak point half-way up. I have to be slightly careful of it. My stabiliser fin looks like this: It's attached to four stud jumpers between the engines. It does tend to fall off if pushed hard but it comes off as one unit. I'm not sure how it could be made better without a total redesign.
  11. ScottishDave
    Well done Shiva - it's good to see another shuttle completed. I love the idea of using the six-blade rotor 64566 in the mid-section of the tank. I wish I'd thought of that. My solution was more convoluted, but got the job done.
  12. ScottishDave
    Adipa, scroll up this page of the thread to my post from March 20th 2017. "Parts List.xls" should be what you are looking for. There are also instruction booklets and - in case you need it - a Lego Digital Designer (LXF) file. I hope this helps.
  13. ScottishDave
    Thank you :-). Yes, I made the decals as well. I copied and pasted a bunch of images from the internet onto glossy photo sticker paper.
  14. ScottishDave
    I've been building my own copy. Before anyone asks: Sadly, I don't have an LXF to share. I worked in real bricks for this one. However, there are enough renders and photos on the Lego Ideas submission that you can get very, very close. One thing that took some squinting and thinking was the rudder. I worked out eventually that it's held on by two old THIN clip lights in black: each of which has two tiles modified with clips attached to the sides. I've cleaned out the UK supply of Dark Orange quarter cylinders (sorry) but at the risk of inviting righteous fury, I found a close paint colour match: RAL 8023 "Orangebraun". Quite a few places stock it - I got a plastic-specific spray can for £13.99 from eBay. Photos:
  15. ScottishDave
    Daphatty, I used two pins on each side with my design, as well as a brace in the middle. It's still completely together and looks great. I've just been looking at it - all this work on the new UCS has inspired me to revisit my old model! The LXF file for just the engine mod is still available here: (LXF) (XLS) as well as on my topic for 10179 mods:
  16. ScottishDave
    Fair enough. I might post more about this in the Mod thread, when I get the time. The differing degree of droop between the two sides was the thing which bothered me the most, and I agree that it was worse on the cockpit side.
  17. ScottishDave
    I do own the original UCS Falcon, and over time I noticed a droop of 5mm at the front of one of the mandibles, and 3mm on the other. This may class as "slight" or "severe" to different people, but it bugged the heck out of me. I corrected this problem by rebuilding the frame supporting the mandibles to make it very solid: consisting of 2 rows of side-by-side technic beams, pinned together, sitting on two layers of plates, with a row of liftarms on the bottom. I attached it securely to the framework around the forward landing stand with more plates, technic box beams and pins. The result does not droop :-). Since the new UCS uses a very similar structure to the original, I suspect that something similar may be necessary there.
  18. ScottishDave
    This model is great. I love the look of it - so like the Falcon, but so different. I enjoyed the backstory, and I appreciate the time, effort and attention to detail that's gone into building this. One thing I especially like is the docking rings. Thank you for sharing the breakdown on flickr - I'm always looking for ways to modify my own hunk of junk, and these look great. Did you design them as drop-in replacements for the 2017 UCS?
  19. ScottishDave
    I'm glad someone has started a topic for this. I really, really like the new model - especially the cockpit corridor and the gun turret platforms. Some of the reworked details are brilliant – I love the use of tank tracks for detailing! However, it has shortcomings, many of them copied straight from the old UCS - mandible equipment access bays still in the wrong position (but smaller). - front hull dome is still squashed as a result. - Engine vents are too large - lack of detail on underside. - large internal framework, no space for a full interior. - no landing pad hatches - Docking ports are too small I corrected many of these issues on my 10179 mods. LXFs are still available here. These mods can probably all be used on the new 75192 to one degree or another. I am revisiting my mods. I plan to borrow ideas from the new model. I'm not going to buy it… I can't afford it, and I already have a Falcon which I like a lot. As a starter for ten, here is a photo of my work-in-progress modified gun turret platform, with the following features: - accurate window size (8 studs wide, not 6: dish taken from UCS TIE fighter) - accurate red markings (cut up stickers from old republic cruiser) - more accurate old grey and dark grey markings (still WIP...) - more accurate size, position and detail on the turret. BTW the dish is held in place with minifig hands pushed into cut hoses and shoved into the undersides of the arches.
  20. ScottishDave
    Yes, it most certainly was. I do hope they've fixed that issue.
  21. ScottishDave
    I like this model a lot. It's a huge improvement over the original UCS model. I don't plan to buy one - I already have a heavily modified original UCS model with full interior and accurate details. However, I feel inspired to get hold of the new pieces and start improving my model all over again. There are some excellent ideas in this set. I especially like the smooth cockpit corridor tube, and I think the gun turret platforms look great.
  22. ScottishDave
    Krispy's 1.4 version, from my own dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jvfl1q32vu6mwmj/Jerac A-wing - 1.4.lxf?dl=0
  23. ScottishDave
    Well, I dunno how mortesv did it (and he's entitled to be coy since he's selling us the instructions) but I did find a much simpler way. Here's how it looks: Lots of 2-stud wide plates - any size will do, but the longer the better: some technic beams, and 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 brackets (all the same orientation). The only "trick" was to put some of the brackets right under the docking port connectors, for added firmness. And yeah, it was pretty strong. I swung the engines around by the spine as well. Didn't think of the Mjolnir joke though - good one! :-).
  24. ScottishDave
    Thanks for the kind words. Thank you especially @EKae for taking the time and trouble to reverse-engineer this model - I really appreciate it.
  25. ScottishDave
    Thanks bricksmarlin. I forgot to mention - I used your photos of the escape pod section to build my own. Thank you for that - it was very helpful!
×
×
  • Create New...