mahjqa

The rotor blades will fall off.

Cost. Right now, they've got the stuff to make the kind of cars that work well. They've JUST overhauled the suspension parts. What you're looking for are a good load of very complicated to produce parts (4 to 6 molds per part), along with storage and so on. That YOU want. Plus, I'm figuring, about 50 vocal AFOLs. Hell, let's make it 200 AFOLs. And on the other side: the people who couldn't care less. How many hundreds of millions of kids were there again? How often does Lego release supercars again? Even including offroaders, I'm counting only six sets the last ten years. I want these as much as you do, but the chance of us getting them is not, if you'll pardon the word, realistic.

Let's look at the priorities placed on an official Lego model, most important at the top: -Kids should be able to build it -The price shouldn't be too high -The model should be recogniseable and attractive -The functions should be fun to play with First things first, Lego is a toy. As such, things like "fun to play with" will always be a priority over realism. Sure, it's possible to make (for example) more realistic suspension setups in cars. As a drawback, this means the model would: -be a lot harder to build -require more parts, making it more expensive -require new specialised parts, making it more expensive All of this for a slight change in geometry that most kids won't see, understand or appreciate.

This has been asked before. It's a bad photoshop job, the part does not exist.

They don't need to.

I'm with timslegos. Sometimes brute strength isn't the solution to your problem, but better engineering.

Perhaps for a B model, but tan axles when used correctly can stop axles slipping out where 4-axles with stop wouldn't work.

No shit, seriously? The thought had NEVER occured to me!

For instructions: http://www.vayamenda.com/ The rest is pretty much http://www.youtube.com/mahj

None. My pride is in the models I made myself, not some shopbought thousand-of-a-kind.

And? Yes, I've used some studded parts here and there, but there are plenty of parts in blue, orange, lime, yellow, teal, purple, white and grey. Dark blue, dark red, dark green, brown and tan are also available if you know where to look. And as long as your chassis itself is in a neutral color, you only need surprisingly few coloured parts on the outside to spruce things up.

This is too cute. The colorscheme works very nicely as well.

Oh great, this discussion again...

Just give it a shot. Our first couple of races we only had a few racers. However, as soon as others see how much fun it is the numbers grow; our last race had 18 competitors.

Well, the floor we were racing on was very slippery to begin with. For the standard race I'd even disabled my rear wheel steering as it was too direct. As for the motors, I think the most powerful option is to use two Large Pf motors. I used one Large PF motor for each rear wheel, so I wouldn't have to deal with a differential. However, a single XL motor or two medium motors will also see you through. Pretty much, yeah. You need to relieve your competitors of their 2x4 bricks. We ask people to make their cars look a bit nicer, but this was a young'un who had trouble enough getting the car to run, so we let it slide. As the floor was very slippery, the weight distribution of a car is very important. Too much weight on the driven wheels means it won't steer, and too much weight on the steering wheels means it's not going anywhere. Ironically enough, a chassis with some more decoration on it would've fixed most of these weight issues. These are the ones I could find. Many ACC vehicles are built on my standard chassis: Koffiemoc: http://www.flickr.com/photos/koffiemoc/sets/72157632809927086/with/8489787139/ Griffon: http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterhooghiemster/sets/72157632841186468/ Willie Wortel / Trijntje: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=523190 Chrisvdb: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=391046 There are also some pictures in Barman's photostream: http://www.flickr.co...5413767/?page=3 And I almost forgot this shot of my own rat rod:

A couple of dozen people have. One of them:

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I'm going to disagree here; studless is actually easier. If you want to build things with technic functions, that is. The dimensions of studded bricks are wildly unsuitable for technic geometry; bricks that are actually ever so slightly higher than a single stud, for example. And you can't build brick on brick on brick, nope. You have to go brick-plate-plate-brick and so on. The problem is that it's a wildly different system, and you have to learn that system from scratch. Just like you learned building with studs from scratch. As for building x steps in advance... take a look at the building instructions of the 8824 hovercraft right here. All studded. A relatively small set. And yet this model would take ridiculous amounts of planning to get right.

4WD is more about traction and acceleration. Both won't be a problem on a Lego scale. Typically FWD is harder to pull off than RWD. This will add more complexity which will cost you both in size and weight, which in turn will bring down your top speed and acceleration. The only possible benefit FWD will give you is increased maneuverability, but benefits would likely be unnoticable on a Lego scale. Fastest I built with a standard batterybox and standard motors (so no L or servo motors) is Ice Nine: Bring down size, bring down weight, bring down complexity. Another option; don't use a differential, but use two separate motors to power the two rear wheels. This allows for speed differences between the rear wheels (thus: better turning) and has the bonus of an additional motor. Find instructions for something like that right here:

Very nice work. The rotating rig is my favourite. As for the chain, were you inspired by this?

Well, no. It's the same reason Lego stopped putting gearboxes in supercars; while it's more realistic, it doesn't add to the play value, and hardly anyone cares.

What the hell happened? Are you two trying to have an asshole contest? Impressive builds, Kevron.

It's not. From the looks of things, it seems it cain't even roll properly. dhc6twinotter, I love your post.

Someone brought up competitions... I think it'd be extremely dubious to allow non-lego parts there. If everyone is using the same parts, that levels the playing field a bit. Then it becomes about who is the better builder, instead of who can throw most money at the hardware. (For example, in our , there are additional limits that ensure that you can't toss in non-Lego parts or extra battery packs.)