langko

I hope not… without an entirely custom windscreen piece that would look terrible. I for one would prefer a P1, even if production ended a decade ago.

If it’s bringing back the ultra rare DBG #1&2 panels from the cancelled osprey then I don’t care how ugly it is.

Sorry I’m not up to date with the news. I saw the set for the first time this morning in a LEGO promotional email, regardless I think it’s quite interesting and clever part usage

How about orange differential gears?

EDIT: 2/4/23. The instructions are now available for the revised and further improved version! The model is buildable in black and now red (thanks to the SP3) Many thanks to @astyanax for making the instructions and for all your contributions to improving the model! I know a lot of people have been asking for them so I'm happy that this is now a reality. They can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-142670/astyanax/pagani-huayra-bc/#details Photo gallery here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/langko/pagani-huayra-v2 Original post below. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So after 18 months of building I'm happy to present my latest MOC. I already hinted at building this car back in my Senna thread... and I somehow managed to pull it off. For me this the dream car for technic building, there are so many features you can add plus the fully open mode looks awesome in Lego. There are sooo many special versions of this car in real life, I've taken inspiration from a lot of them to come up with my own unique 'special edition'. The amount of variation when looking at the real life cars is crazy, different types of rear wings, some have roof scoops, some have dorsal fins, the front grill area can look different depending on the car you are looking at, plus all sorts of different aero aiding stuff. This allowed a certain amount of creativity and artistic freedom, whilst also offering a technical challenge with the active aero and opening everything. Whilst nothing is perfect when working with this medium, and the same is true here, I'm pretty happy with what I've come up with. It would probably be my favourite model in my collection so far. Features: N-R-7 speed gearbox, limiters between 7-N. (Inspired by Anto's wonderful gearbox: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50877/Anto/ultra-compact-8nr-speed-sequential-gerbox/#details) Stick shift in the middle console. (Similar to Didumos shifter that is common in a lot of models now, Charbel's 720s, T-Lego's Centenario etc.. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8105/Didumos/awd-gearbox-w-v8/#details) Rear wheel drive with differential. Gearbox/drivetrain is connected to a fake v12 engine (full size pistons/trans clear engine blocks). Ackerman steering connected to the steering wheel + removable HOG on the dash. Working aero flaps front + back, connected to the steering. Turn left the left flaps open, turn right the right flaps open. Independent cantilevered suspension on all wheels. Adjustable suspension (nose lift) on the front axle. Controlled by removable HOG on the dash (you can use the same one as the steering HOG). Seats are adjustable forward/backward. Each seat has there own control knob on the respective side of the monocoque. Working fans in the front. Connected to the rear wheels so they spin as the car is pushed along. 4 luggage compartments. 2 large bags + 2 small bags. In the rear there is an openable compartment either side of the engine, which holds the large bags. The 2 smaller bags are stored behind each headrest. They can be accessed when you adjust the seats forwards. (This hopefully makes up for the lack of luggage compartments in the Senna) Openable gull wing doors. They are held in place by a soft spring so gravity doesn’t slam them shut. Openable clamshells front and rear. The aero flaps open with the clam shells. Detailed interior + engine bay. Glow in the dark headlights (can easily be switched to trans-clear if desired). Black and gold colour scheme (as of writing black is the only possible build colour). No visible blue pins, achieved mostly through clever building techniques but some black ones are used where absolutely necessary. When I had started this model it was originally in lime... I was using this as a reference: It was working well until a got to the front of the model but then the front was just impossible. The lime wheel arches are too big and I couldn't come up with anything remotely decent looking. I thought about changing the car to red but red is also missing a few colours that are available in lime so that wouldn't work either. I thought about just putting the model to the side and hope that new red pieces came with the upcoming SP3... But then the Batmoble came out with the black smaller arches, followed by the McLaren F1 with the black tapered panels and I new immediately black would work. I've always liked the idea of making a black car and I think it works really well for this car/brand. You could potentially replace the gold wheels/gold details with the Bugatti wheels and some dark blue/silver accents. That could look quite good too I think. If you've read this far, thank you! More photos on brick safe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/langko/pagani-huayra I plan on making a video to showcase all the features, but the weather is terrible at the moment. It seems like the only time its not wet is either when its dark or I'm at work. I had a decent run home with traffic today and managed a 10 minute window to take photos outside before it got too dark. Maybe I'll get something done in the next month or so, I don't want to rush it. I'll hopefully get some photos with the Senna too. But for now, I hope you'll enjoy the photos! ----------------- EDIT: video complete:

Pretty creative solution for sure! If you were willing to ditch the b-model you could change them to the trans clear version of the same part and it would instantly look a lot better. While you’re at it change all the dark azure to dark blue (the dual color tone of the Bugatti isn’t doing anyone any favors with b-models) and you’d have a pretty decent looking model.

Have fun building it, if you need to source the Dark Blue parts I recommend buying the newer ones (the ones available in the Ford Gt set) direct from LEGO pick a brick, as I found it a lot cheaper than bricklink. The suspension is probably a mix of all those factors. Renders will quite often look higher as there’s no compression. I don’t know if there was any redesign from earlier versions to the version released in the instruction. It is adjustable as well so it’s possible you could’ve seen some photos with it in a higher setting. Yes it definitely doesn’t disappoint in person!

I had thought about trying an all dark blue version when I built the model, but there are many smaller parts and connectors that aren’t available in dark blue. In the end I didn’t think it was worth trying to modify so much of the bodywork to make work, especially when I had a lot of the white parts in my inventory already. But I wouldn’t say it would be entirely impossible though if you were willing to give it ago.

Lots of little details and functions packed into a model this size. Looks great!

Anything seems to be acceptable when we are modifying official sets (within accepted building techniques) so why should we treat MOC's any different? As long as credit is given to original designer then go for it. As a designer myself I think it would be ignorant to think my way of doing something in a model is the best way of doing it, so I am more than happy to see what other peoples ideas are. Take my Huayra as an example, which went to the next level when working with @astyanax, and when we released the instructions I even encouraged modifications in my short intro to the model. I think it is good to encourage creativity and putting your own spin on a model. Personally I just finished modifying @Jeroen Ottens venom for the second time. The first attempt I had at it I didn't find satisfactory but this time I am quite pleased with it. The list of modifications now is huge... I rebuilt nearly the entire front end of the bodywork, rebuilt the rear bumper, lowered the rear suspension, redesigned the doors so they don't snag on the surrounding bodywork, changed the white interior to DBG, entirely new seats, strengthened the chassis in some parts, trans clear on the mirrors and other minor changes to other areas of the bodywork etc... I shared some photos and thoughts of my first attempt in the respective thread, but have been too lazy to do it this time. But this thread is good enough inspiration to take a couple photos of it. Comparison Photos: New interior.

It’s 1:10. So I agree it not going to take much away from the (rumored) LEGO McLaren.

And there are also system sets that have better technical functions than said supercar sets…

This car has been on my build/design list for a while... As soon as I saw the model on rebrickable last year I knew I had to do the classic white/dark blue version (made possible with the new Ford GT set) I can't recommend this model highly enough. It is one of the best building experiences I have had from rebrickable and I don't have anything to whinge about.

This looks amazing! The chassis details are awesome at this scale.

Yet if LEGO could pull off a hard top convertible roof and cool butterfly doors… and the drivetrain was new and interesting with all the Yamaha gearbox parts (not just a copy paste like the SP3 was of the Sian) it would probably be my personal favorite of the 5… But if they were going down that route I’d definitely prefer the 750s spider over the Artura spider.

That’s frustrating just thinking about that… I’ve never actually thought about how important pin management is for a B-model. I’m always just used to them being an endless consumable

I think this is my favourite b-model from this set so far. Bodywork looks really good for the limited parts, great job with the DRS feature as well. Really starting to like the DBG with lime accents colour combo

- Actual mechanics where possible. Sometimes it's too difficult to replicate the exact mechanic, so I come up with a LEGO solution that gets the same end result. - 50/50 split. If it looks good but is boring on the inside, or mechanically interesting but looks bad, I don't see the point. It is easy to do one or the other, much more difficult to do both on the same model. When that is achieved that is when I get the most building satisfaction. - As minimally as possible to get the desired result. They tend to be great for smaller details but not larger areas. - I stick to designing cars, because that is what I like most. But every MOC I do has to have 1 interesting function that the others haven't had yet. I also try picking cars that haven't yet been designed to my liking. Otherwise I might as well just build that persons model. - I generally start by roughly building the outside of the model first. I find it easier to then plan how I build the inside and not build the mechanics too big. I always look for real life examples and other peoples models to get inspiration. If I get really stuck I put it to the side and work on a different part of the model. - I work mainly with sheet metal design and fabrication. Solidworks for design, laser cutting and brake press machines for manufacturing. Basic design rules apply for both: strong structures whilst trying to minimise weight and unnecessary parts, model has to look good and function well. Apart from that it is very different. LEGO you stick to existing parts and its a puzzle how to put them together. My day job you are creating the shape of the parts from scratch and because of that it requires a lot more creativity. Especially when there's not much reference material for my day job, you are creating something completely new. Where as my LEGO models are based of real life vehicles so I know exactly what the proportions/shapes etc... need to be. - I like the mechanics and movement side of things more than the system bricks. So for MOCs I stick with technic. System sets are more for relaxing and spending time building with my wife. - Just start building official sets of models that interest you and go from there. What is the logic behind this? I don't see anything wrong with doing either of those things. Diagonal connections are great for adding strength and sometimes getting bodywork on the right angles. Half stud connections can also be great for positioning bodywork in a more precise position. By not using those techniques you are just robbing yourself of more possibilities.

For me… CaDA Alfa Romeo F1 is the best looking one, but I couldn’t care less about Alfa Romeo. (And they’ve left the sport now) LEGO McLaren F1 is the worst looking one, but McLaren is my favourite team. LEGO Mercedes F1 is the middle ground both as a set and as a team that I like. I look forward to seeing if @LukasRSDesign uses the slick tyres on any of his future F1 Mocs

Sounds like something of a game show haha. I’m not sure I’d have the time but would definitely be interested in seeing what people could come up with. Surely this would favor those that have the largest part inventory? When there’s no time to order anything those with a much larger variety of pieces will find it much easier.

If they didn’t have the license they probably would’ve been happy to do a set with all 3 body types and release it as a “classic off-road vehicle” or something along those lines. It comes across as a have your cake and eat it too mentality. If we can get the licenses, then great! If not we will just do it anyway and call it something else… I hope CaDA can get to the level of success and integrity that they can do away with all that. It would definitely gain them more respect and also set them even further apart from all the other knock off brands in the industry.

And so does yellow, orange, red, lime, black, white and basically every color except for the shades of blue. But its not like LEGO cares. I personally would love to see a purple car, it would add a nice variety to everything. I can easily change the pins to black myself.

For comparison, over hear at Lego AU this set is $99 and the Airbus is $329.

The black bar is the steering rack and you have it upside down. The black gear should engage the teeth on the steering rack when you put it in. Look at the instructions step 280-285 and you’ll see the mistake. Lucky for you, you don’t have to pull apart too much of the model to fix it.

No they don’t. But you can choose to shift using either the paddles or the up/down lever in the center. The CC850 has the full manual shifter with a clutch pedal, but no paddle shifters. But the gearbox is amazing with the other features you mentioned. I was watching a YouTube video with Christian (CEO) when it first came out, super interesting.