Immo

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

    224
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Immo

  • Birthday 08/24/1987

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    30540

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PoznaƄ, Poland
  • Interests
    speculative fiction, video games, classic cars and car culture, bass guitars, Lego

Extra

  • Country
    Poland

Recent Profile Visitors

1287 profile views
  1. Immo

    42093 Corvette ZR-1

    It's an old MOCcer trick and it makes total sense at that scale. I'm for one happy that finally we have a licensed model shorter than 40 studs. It'll be affordable. And it's done pretty well for that scale.
  2. Immo

    MOC (RC) Muscle Ripsaw

    OK, that's officially my favorite application of a threaded chassis ever. Awesome model!
  3. Immo

    42093 Corvette ZR-1

    Well, when I bought large sets - 42000 or 42039 - I did it with the intention of building way smaller C-Models. More "tightly packed", but still around 40 studs long. It worked in both cases. OK, they are too big to make a U-Tuirn on my table, but they can make a 180 turn in three moves, so it's fine
  4. Immo

    42093 Corvette ZR-1

    I love this set, it's neat, it's around my fav scale and it's got great pieces. Will get at least one, but probably two or even three. I'm glad they did a licensed car in that scale, honestly I do not care for 60-70 studs long cars that weigh a ton and are unwieldy. There's much more fun in cramming many functions into a small, ~35 stud long model. If it can't make a u-turn on my dinner table, it's too big
  5. Got myself the Mustang last week and, just like most people, I'll be ordering 4 dark green 2x1 tiles and two black connectors to remove the white streak from the side. Don't like the stickers (aside from the obligatory grille Pony) and in my set they were cut askew, which was triggering me so much. The only flaw (which I can't seem to find a way to cope with anyway) I see is the lack of the side louvers which all the 1st gen Fastback Mustangs had. Other than that, it's a great mode, one of the coolest ones in the line. Love how easily it can be turned into a Coupe, Convertible or upgraded to Shelby spec. Unfortunately, that's about it for me when it comes to 2018 Speed Champions sets. Not a fan of non-American cars, though I must admit the lime green 911 looks neat.
  6. They are also sometimes (not in those cases) used to keep the axles from slipping. I used them to keep the 4L With Stop used as a front wheel axle from slipping and getting "loose". I honestly though, during the build process, that those two in 42069 will also be used as a slip-preventive measure.
  7. Immo

    Nerdtron: Defender of the 80's

    This is beyond awesome. Love all the details. Great job!
  8. Immo

    Lego and Depression

    To me, it helps. It's one of those things that give me joy. I'm not thinking about problems of life that much, I'm thinking about problems of designing and executing a build. And when a build is done, it usually gives my a lot of satisfaction - and it's the only accomplishment I have that gives me that feeling.
  9. Roadkill is where I get 90% of my enthusiasm and knowledge about cars and modifications. And inspiration for building Lego cars and overcoming technical issues. I love those guys for their authentic passion for everything they do, they are so natural compared to all the staged 'reality TV' about cars you see everywhere.
  10. 35-40 studs long and 17 studs high is a "small" MOC? Guess I'm a minimalist I'm a kind of guy who loves that size of models. Above 40 studs I get this feeling that 'all could be fitted' and it presents way less challenge. Like my favorite build, the Hob Rod (37 studs long, ~11 studs high). Has supercharger, steering (steering wheel + hog), opening suicide doors and tailgate and some other small feats: Having that said, I'd go with a hot rod, of course. A proper rod has several advantages for a thing to be displayed, but crammed in a tight space: simple (yet sometimes demanding) bodywork, exposed engine that shows off functions, the overall 'flatness' of a chopped kustom car and the feeling it's gonna smoke tires any second now But then again, you don't have to heed my suggestion, I'm a hot rod guy, half of my MOCs and C-Models are hot rods
  11. And I thought we'll be friends... Nah, but seriously though, I love those American pickups in all versions. It's just the more 'muscular' feeling of the stepside that leans me towards it. This, and Roadkill:
  12. Ah, a thing I always wanted to build: a classic C10! You are going to build a panel version like in the photo or a stepside? Stepsides look more interesting in my opinion
  13. I'd love 0.5 stud longer one. This way it could extend out of a V engine block 1 full stud and attaching transmission would be way easier. In Lightning Rod pictured above I had to use the relatively new 5.5L axle with stop at 1st stud, as it was the only way of keeping the upper part of the driveshaft (the upper gear of the chain transmission) from slipping out of the crankshaft. This in return made designing the steering with HOG a nightmare because a large part of that 5.5 extends from the "transmission box" and just gets in the way..
  14. And they even have no cylinder heads and the proportions are way too off - they are too long and too "shallow". Anyway, that's why I called the engine on the Hob Rod a "mountain engine" (a slang term for a high displacement engines). The car's "lore" claims it to be a marine V12 - those suckers had displacement up to 40 liters! - cut in half . I wonder if Lego will create an alternate design for a piston engine one day, designed specifically for engine block designs. The alternative designs presented by MOCers are cool, but require rubbers and/or gravity to work properly (now that I mentioned it - the 2018 Mack has an inline engine based on such design!). I'd like to see a new part design made specifically for such application. But there may be a problem with a crankshaft modules giving the pistons too much travel. Maybe meeting in the middle would do? Imagine a 1.5L wide cylinder with full 1L wide piston (at the size of the 1L ring connector) - the bare V8 would measure 7L if the frames keeping them together were .5L thick.
  15. I managed to take a better photo of the upgrade. Thanks for hints, @mocbuild101 Oh, and I'm happy how the lattice of all the rolling chassis' girding came out: