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Everything posted by Immo

  1. I mainly build Technic C-Models, but I also enjoy Creator alternatives, so here's what I built out of set 5763. In the photo, hot-rodder sigfig is added for scale and reference). Features: ► minifig scale (with adjustable steering wheel) ► openable and adjustable canopy-cage with roll bar ► rear suspension (individual for each wheel) ► details such as engine with radiator and twin turbo, lights, steering wheel, twin exhaust and rear view mirrors Browsing through OLX (online marketplace fo classified ads) I found old (2011), used 5763 for a price of a new small, ~50 piece set. I liked how the set contained big wheels and offered possibility to build suspension, so I bought it right away. Only one super-cheap plate was missing, so it was a nice deal. The MOC Alternative uses almost every part from the set. As you can see, the build came out quite clean:
  2. Got myself the Mustang last week and, just like most people, I'll be ordering 4 dark green 2x1 tiles and two black connectors to remove the white streak from the side. Don't like the stickers (aside from the obligatory grille Pony) and in my set they were cut askew, which was triggering me so much. The only flaw (which I can't seem to find a way to cope with anyway) I see is the lack of the side louvers which all the 1st gen Fastback Mustangs had. Other than that, it's a great mode, one of the coolest ones in the line. Love how easily it can be turned into a Coupe, Convertible or upgraded to Shelby spec. Unfortunately, that's about it for me when it comes to 2018 Speed Champions sets. Not a fan of non-American cars, though I must admit the lime green 911 looks neat.
  3. They are also sometimes (not in those cases) used to keep the axles from slipping. I used them to keep the 4L With Stop used as a front wheel axle from slipping and getting "loose". I honestly though, during the build process, that those two in 42069 will also be used as a slip-preventive measure.
  4. Immo

    Nerdtron: Defender of the 80's

    This is beyond awesome. Love all the details. Great job!
  5. Immo

    Lego and Depression

    To me, it helps. It's one of those things that give me joy. I'm not thinking about problems of life that much, I'm thinking about problems of designing and executing a build. And when a build is done, it usually gives my a lot of satisfaction - and it's the only accomplishment I have that gives me that feeling.
  6. Roadkill is where I get 90% of my enthusiasm and knowledge about cars and modifications. And inspiration for building Lego cars and overcoming technical issues. I love those guys for their authentic passion for everything they do, they are so natural compared to all the staged 'reality TV' about cars you see everywhere.
  7. 35-40 studs long and 17 studs high is a "small" MOC? Guess I'm a minimalist I'm a kind of guy who loves that size of models. Above 40 studs I get this feeling that 'all could be fitted' and it presents way less challenge. Like my favorite build, the Hob Rod (37 studs long, ~11 studs high). Has supercharger, steering (steering wheel + hog), opening suicide doors and tailgate and some other small feats: Having that said, I'd go with a hot rod, of course. A proper rod has several advantages for a thing to be displayed, but crammed in a tight space: simple (yet sometimes demanding) bodywork, exposed engine that shows off functions, the overall 'flatness' of a chopped kustom car and the feeling it's gonna smoke tires any second now But then again, you don't have to heed my suggestion, I'm a hot rod guy, half of my MOCs and C-Models are hot rods
  8. And I thought we'll be friends... Nah, but seriously though, I love those American pickups in all versions. It's just the more 'muscular' feeling of the stepside that leans me towards it. This, and Roadkill:
  9. Ah, a thing I always wanted to build: a classic C10! You are going to build a panel version like in the photo or a stepside? Stepsides look more interesting in my opinion
  10. Finally, I got myself to build a 42050 C-Model out of the second set I bought purely because I liked the A-Model too much to tear it apart. Had some general ideas, but couldn't decide between a Hot Rod and Dragster, so I built both in one package. It has a hidden function of "adjusting the stance" which is purely for style and, if exaggerated, makes the car, uh, "un-dragable", but some moderate amounts of adjustment make for nice change of style. Features: ► V8 engine with moving pistons ► twin carb adorned with velocity stacks + hood tach ► radiator + cooling system + front lights ► ribbed hose headers and dragster-style Zoomie exhausts ► rigid transmission w/o differential ► steering connected to HOG ► cockpit with a (non-functioning) steering wheel, dashboard and gear shifter ► adjustable "stance" ► wheelie bar (adjusted with stance) ►namesake "Lightning Rods" in the back of cockpit for decorative purposes
  11. I'd love 0.5 stud longer one. This way it could extend out of a V engine block 1 full stud and attaching transmission would be way easier. In Lightning Rod pictured above I had to use the relatively new 5.5L axle with stop at 1st stud, as it was the only way of keeping the upper part of the driveshaft (the upper gear of the chain transmission) from slipping out of the crankshaft. This in return made designing the steering with HOG a nightmare because a large part of that 5.5 extends from the "transmission box" and just gets in the way..
  12. And they even have no cylinder heads and the proportions are way too off - they are too long and too "shallow". Anyway, that's why I called the engine on the Hob Rod a "mountain engine" (a slang term for a high displacement engines). The car's "lore" claims it to be a marine V12 - those suckers had displacement up to 40 liters! - cut in half . I wonder if Lego will create an alternate design for a piston engine one day, designed specifically for engine block designs. The alternative designs presented by MOCers are cool, but require rubbers and/or gravity to work properly (now that I mentioned it - the 2018 Mack has an inline engine based on such design!). I'd like to see a new part design made specifically for such application. But there may be a problem with a crankshaft modules giving the pistons too much travel. Maybe meeting in the middle would do? Imagine a 1.5L wide cylinder with full 1L wide piston (at the size of the 1L ring connector) - the bare V8 would measure 7L if the frames keeping them together were .5L thick.
  13. I managed to take a better photo of the upgrade. Thanks for hints, @mocbuild101 Oh, and I'm happy how the lattice of all the rolling chassis' girding came out:
  14. The spoiler was so far back because of the structure of the whole mechanism, but you are right, it made no sense. You motivated me to incorporate changes. I moved the spoiler towards the front - the foil is now directly above the rear axle. I also found better ways to reinforce the car, so the "handles" are gone - moved to the bottom to become fake torsion bars for visuals. I re-done the whole model's bottom with new girding and set the front wheels a bit more apart. And as a final touch, I designed a bonus detail that really ties the whole dragster vibe together: a packed chute!
  15. Tell me what looks odd, there is still room for improvements If you're referring to those "doorhandle" bars - they work as reinforcement - there was little space inside to fit the steering, so the main body must be as stiff as possible to prevent gears rubbing against various internal elements of the model.
  16. Had the set had two Linear Actuators instead of just one, I would also add an ability to raise front for some tail dragger/gasser action...
  17. Bingo. Found it two days after I ordered a spare one on Bricklink
  18. The very first thing I did after opening the box was finding the hook within 2 seconds in the foil bag I saw Sariel's review and noted how much he hated the fact the parts are in non-numbered bags. But I rarely handle 500+ parts sets without segregating elements. So each foil bag's contents landed in a different bowl/tray/box/compartment of my Lego-Parts-Tray bought in IKEA. Finding most parts was a breeze. The only problem is my set missed I slotted brick for a green jerrycan. Probably because my cat missplaced it when jumping through the conglomerate of aforementioned containers. Oh, and I have one extra black pin that probably belongs somewhere deep within the assembly. But the vehicle is not falling apart, so I'm not worried Overall impression of the set is that it's utterly awesome. Impressive, loaded with cool functions (I can spend hours opening and closing those awesome doors!) and mighty big. And a bargain, too (I bough it for about 109 Euros, so it was 4 cents/piece). Definitely a top set of 2017 in terms of looks and functions (42065 wins in terms of playability) and a worthy model for Technic's 30th anniversary.
  19. Sorry for being one of those guys, but I just ordered the set and realized I have 4 spare 42030 wheels (15038 wheel with 92912 tyre) and I wonder if that will work with this set or will they rub the fenders. Googled it but couldn't find any results. Anyone tried that? Thanks. EDIT: Ugh, I just realized Unimog tyres mentioned by Jim ARE the 92912 tyres. Silly me, too tired lately.
  20. Great review, Jim, as always. I was certain from the very first second I saw this the set will be great. Loved the colour and the general idea, but then I discovered all the functions and just how many parts this set has and my appreciation for it just increased. Love the door design and the ingenuity of the winch.
  21. It depends on a set. There are some sets I got for display (mostly the smaller Creator sets like 31045 31045 Ocean Explorer or 42040 Fire Plane which are just perfect the way they are) and some to be turned into C-Models (42000 Grand Prix Racer was the case). Some, like 42050 Dragster I bought twice - one for display, one to be parted out. Most sets are immediately turned into the main model after I open the bag or box, exception being the aforementioned 42000 (I have no interest in F1 and most of other open-wheel racing cars) - I built the B-model to practice some building methods for bigger models and then I torn it apart to build my C-Model, the Bootleg Belle. I keep the successful MOCs intact for as long as I don't have the LDD model done (in case I'd want to recreate them). Unsuccessful MOCs are quickly rebuilt.
  22. Immo

    Functional Wind-up Robot

    Wow, talk about a trip (more precisely, a WALK, heheh) to the good old times of retrofuturistic robots. Great and unique idea! I like both robots equally. The black & red one has the Spyrius vibe about it. The whole thing made me think of "Intergalactic" by Beastie Boys music video.
  23. Immo

    [C-MODEL] 42053 Cherry Picker

    Neatly done! I'm a huge fan of C-Models and this one is well executed. Like how lightweight and solid at the same time it looks. The grille is great, too. Good job
  24. Immo

    The Technic Confessional

    You see, the problem is the price for Lego is quite similar everywhere, yet it takes much more of my income. That's why I feel like a sinner every time I order parts/sets.
  25. Immo

    The Technic Confessional

    Oh, and one more thing: The B.A.S. (Bricks Acquisition Syndrome) is of course a virtue, not a sin, right? RIGHT?! This compulsive need to buy more Lego. To get more parts, just in case... You know what I'm talking about, right? I'd describe the symptoms it further, but I got Bricklink basket to fill and local classifieds to browse