[REVIEW] 5571 Giant Truck / Black Cat

[davidmull]

I've started my Bricklinking for this project and I have a couple of observations:

Based on average inventory prices for used parts, it would cost around $1450 to buy all the parts individually. This is broken down roughly as:

Wheels and tires - $380

Pneumatics - $250, of which $110 is for the cylinder brackets

Technic parts - $210, most expensive part is the yellow 1x6 Liftarm at about $5/part

Bricks, Slopes etc. - $170, 1x6x3 arches and chromed bricks make up $70 of this

Plate, Tiles etc. - $160, nothing really expensive here, just a large number of them

Electrics - $115 (excluding wires -add roughly $35-$50 for these)

The rest - $165, Large doors and windscreen from 5571 make up $80, 1x16 lattices add $25

If you find an alternate method to mount the pneumatics, you could save about $120 by eliminating the cylinder brackets and yellow 1x6 liftarms.

Buying 1x 5571 reduces the needed parts price to $937. Buying two reduces it to $675 and you could, theoretically, sell the left over parts for $400.

Wow this is costly but worth it I'd say,sure even if u buy 2 trucks and sell the remaining parts how much are the 2 trucks costing?

[Blakbird]

Hi Blakbird - would you be able to give an estimate of the electric (5306) lengths, hose number and lengths, and the rubber band/belts that you used in your build?

I'm afraid it has been years since I put it together and all the wires are now buried deep inside so I'm not sure. I cut all the pneumatic hoses to length on installation from a large roll of aftermarket tubing, and I would strongly suggest the same. You will need a lot of it.

[EdmanZA]

Wow this is costly but worth it I'd say,sure even if u buy 2 trucks and sell the remaining parts how much are the 2 trucks costing?

The cheapest ones on Bricklink were going for around 230EUR without instructions or box. I bought one cheaper one and then spent a extra to buy a second with box and instructions.

[lotusman]

I'm afraid it has been years since I put it together and all the wires are now buried deep inside so I'm not sure. I cut all the pneumatic hoses to length on installation from a large roll of aftermarket tubing, and I would strongly suggest the same. You will need a lot of it.

Thanks Blakbird - that helps. I'll estimate the electric wiring as most of them seem relatively close together - I was planning mostly on 20 long - let me know if your first reaction is that's too short. Where did you get aftermarket tubing from? Was it specifically for Lego, or a more generic product? The rubber bands/belts I'll just estimate and change if I find them to be wrong.

[DLuders]

@ lotusman: iLeGos (from Florida USA) sells 10 ft (305cm) lengths of Lego-compatible pneumatic tubing here.

[nychase]

I can vouch for the quality of his pneumatic tubing. In fact I have about 10 feet for my own 5571 tow truck....and about 100ft for JC's excavator!

[lotusman]

@ lotusman: iLeGos (from Florida USA) sells 10 ft (305cm) lengths of Lego-compatible pneumatic tubing here.

I can vouch for the quality of his pneumatic tubing. In fact I have about 10 feet for my own 5571 tow truck....and about 100ft for JC's excavator!

Thanks - that is exactly what I'll get as well then!

[antp]

The cheapest ones on Bricklink were going for around 230EUR without instructions or box. I bought one cheaper one and then spent a extra to buy a second with box and instructions.

From time to time some appear on Ebay.

I got one a few months ago for 100 € with box and instructions (+ 10 € for insured shipping), but no sticker at all. All parts are in very good state. I found a hi-res scan of the stickers, some day I should try to print them. I hesitated to buy it, but seeing its price on Bricklink I guess it was a good deal, even without the stickers. I was surprised to win that auction.

Shortly after that another one appeared at 120 € with stickers but without box and missing a few trim parts (including some chromed ones), but anyway someone placed a higher bid than me that time.

Edited February 26, 2013 by antp

[CisFran]

someone posted (in swiss bidding site) a used 5571 set, complete with box and manuals for USD193 (starting price)..

http://www.ricardo.ch/kaufen/spielzeug-und-basteln/lego/lego-system/schnaeppchen-fuer-1-tag-modell-team-black-cat-n0-5571/v/an710126986/?ABTestedFeatureKey=59

I think it's kinda cheap if no one buy it for that price considering the rocketing price in BL...

though I already bought a complete set (minus the box) for USD140

[CisFran]

Finished building my copy. I think this is the most complicated that I built so far and the best one....

Took me almost 10 hours on and off, and I think 25% of the time is finding the part. I didn't segregate it unlike my usual technic studless builds since this set have too many unique parts. I just dumped the parts and segregated it by color...

[Junpei]

Andrea Grazi also made this amazing chasis for 5571: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=26044

[EdmanZA]

I'm afraid it has been years since I put it together and all the wires are now buried deep inside so I'm not sure. I cut all the pneumatic hoses to length on installation from a large roll of aftermarket tubing, and I would strongly suggest the same. You will need a lot of it.

I'm in the process of building this now, and I'll try to keep track of the hose and wire lengths I use.

Blakbird (or anyone else who's built this), I've got a couple of questions about the pneumatic routing which I'm hoping you might be able to answer:

1. What does the switch in this picture do? Some of Grazi's pics suggest that it might be for switching between the auto pump and a manual one.
   http://www.brickshel.../001-frame..jpg
   
2. Which pneumatic switches do what (obviously not critical, but it's nice to configure it as the designer intended)? I think the order is (from front to back):
   http://www.brickshel...entially-24.jpg
   - Deploy raise mid wheels.
   - Deploy outriggers
   - Lift boom
   - Lift rear pad
   - Extend rear pad
   
3. What is the order of pipes going into the 'Christmas Tree' in the first linked pic? Presumably, from top (grey) to bottom (yellow), it's the same as the front to back order above.
   
4. Are you able to take a pic of the underside of the truck, particularly showing the tubing routing around the air tank and supply?
   

Thanks

Edited October 8, 2013 by EdmanZA

[Blakbird]

1. What does the switch in this picture do? Some of Grazi's pics suggest that it might be for switching between the auto pump and a manual one.
   http://www.brickshel.../001-frame..jpg
   
2. Which pneumatic switches do what (obviously not critical, but it's nice to configure it as the designer intended)? I think the order is (from front to back):
   http://www.brickshel...entially-24.jpg
   - Deploy raise mid wheels.
   - Deploy outriggers
   - Lift boom
   - Lift rear pad
   - Extend rear pad
   
3. What is the order of pipes going into the 'Christmas Tree' in the first linked pic? Presumably, from top (grey) to bottom (yellow), it's the same as the front to back order above.
   
4. Are you able to take a pic of the underside of the truck, particularly showing the tubing routing around the air tank and supply?
   

Thanks

1. I used that switch as a "master pneumatic disconnect". I routed the compressor to the air tank and then to this switch, so all the supply runs through this switch. I later asked Grazi about it and he said he didn't use that switch at all, it was just part of his prototype. It is unnecessary. You can omit it if you like. I think you might be right that he had it there at one point to allow the connection of an external hand pump.
   
2. Doesn't make any difference. Hook them up in whatever order seems logical to you. I don't know what order Grazi used, I just hooked them up in the order that I installed the tubing.
   
3. Again, doesn't make any difference. Just use the same order you use for the switches to keep the routing neat.
   
4. Routing of the air tank and switch is as described in 1. above.
   

[EdmanZA]

1. I used that switch as a "master pneumatic disconnect". I routed the compressor to the air tank and then to this switch, so all the supply runs through this switch. I later asked Grazi about it and he said he didn't use that switch at all, it was just part of his prototype. It is unnecessary. You can omit it if you like. I think you might be right that he had it there at one point to allow the connection of an external hand pump.
   
2. Doesn't make any difference. Hook them up in whatever order seems logical to you. I don't know what order Grazi used, I just hooked them up in the order that I installed the tubing.
   
3. Again, doesn't make any difference. Just use the same order you use for the switches to keep the routing neat.
   
4. Routing of the air tank and switch is as described in 1. above.
   

Thanks, that helps a lot. I'll keep track of the lengths and post the info once I'm done.

[Kumbbl]

Thanks, that helps a lot. I'll keep track of the lengths and post the info once I'm done.

this would be very nice because i'm currently collecting the parts for this otstanding MOC...

rebrickable says, that my 2 x 5571 + 2x 8880 + 1x 8455 + 1x 8868 just for this MOC are already a good start-point... ;-)

A tip for other collectors of this MOC: Here in germany you can buy these mentioned sets (s.a.) in used but very good condition for about 450€ if you are patient. and if you take into account that just these 12 very rare and expensive big wheels of 5571 cost at least 200€ at bricklink and the pneumatic stuff on top about 75€ than it is a smart approach to buy these sets extra for this MOC because you get quite all of the needed expensive stuff (and a lot of parts more)... the rest of the parts should not be to expensive at bricklink...

[EdmanZA]

this would be very nice because i'm currently collecting the parts for this otstanding MOC...

A taste of things to come:

[Kumbbl]

Just one word: WOW!!

[czl663]

If anyone is really interested in building this model and wants to take Eric's approach... I have about 6 or 7 used copies of 5571 so I could sell a few.

do you have 5571 for sell? pls give me contact info.

[skriblez]

do you have 5571 for sell? pls give me contact info.

Dito!

[Kumbbl]

A question to all of you who have already build Grazi's Tow Truck or want to build them in the future.

In the instructions there is the following step:

My question: what is this blue rubberband connected 2 U-joint-stuff with a worm gear in the middle? What is the purpose of this "seldom" design?

Thanks a lot

[DrJB]

do you have 5571 for sell? pls give me contact info.

Ditto!

A taste of things to come:

A while back I bought 2 copies of 8455 ... One I built immediately, other went into spare parts. Glad I did, as now I have almost enough cylinders to build such truck!

Edited October 23, 2013 by Blakbird
: Removed large quoted image.

[Blakbird]

My question: what is this blue rubberband connected 2 U-joint-stuff with a worm gear in the middle? What is the purpose of this "seldom" design?

As the suspension for the forward axle compresses, the axle which drives the steering linkage needs to change length. The worm gear has a loose fit so it is used as a telescoping joint. The rubber band is there to keep the joint from falling apart when it extends. In order to install the rubber band, you must disassemble the u-joints.

At the time this model was created the CV joints did not exist. However, the CV joints also have a loose fit and a long overlap so they could be used to update the design if desired.

[Kumbbl]

you must disassemble the u-joints.

At the time this model was created the CV joints did not exist. However, the CV joints also have a loose fit and a long overlap so they could be used to update the design if desired.

thank you very much for this helpful hint! is the u-joint disassembling riskless?

Good hint for the CV-joints - i will check if they could be applied....

[DrJB]

Just missed one 5571 on eBay ... it was 'only' $255 ...

Edited October 23, 2013 by DrJB

[Blakbird]

thank you very much for this helpful hint! is the u-joint disassembling riskless?

It is a little tricky but I have never damaged a joint by disassembling it.