Ultimate 6+N+R Sequential Gearbox

[SNIPE]

10 hours ago, 1963maniac said:

What part is used as a towball and does part # 25893 share the same pinhole?

STEREO, That gear gearbox looks nice and compact, keep going with that idea.

BTW, Philo has these parts for Studio: https://www.philohome.com/studio/packs.htm 

Its a minifig utensil microphone

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=90370#T=C

Yes, the two parts share the same pinhole

Edited February 15 by SNIPE

[1963maniac]

On 2/12/2024 at 5:11 AM, SNIPE said:

One thing I found that works is this:

The white plate round with handle on underside is slightly too short, but because the stud goes into a pinhole its hard for the driving ring to slip out of place anyway.

Note that you must use this part and not this one

Thanks for your previous answer. I have (the wrong part) 79194 that I put together with 67692, which probably makes the towball extend too long for this application?, true? The ball of the microphone has to be halfway into the pinhole? Is the shortness of the 25893 definitely required? Or (I can't tell) is it required for how the microphone fits into it?

Edited February 16 by 1963maniac

[SNIPE]

13 hours ago, 1963maniac said:

Thanks for your previous answer. I have (the wrong part) 79194 that I put together with 67692, which probably makes the towball extend too long for this application?, true? The ball of the microphone has to be halfway into the pinhole? Is the shortness of the 25893 definitely required? Or (I can't tell) is it required for how the microphone fits into it?

The mic goes all the way into the hollow stud (i.e barhole)

Yes, the short version is mandatory because if you use the long version it is too long to fit the drive ring in.

[1963maniac]

I now have part 2393 (cross block with two pins) so I can build this. Rebrickable explains the difference between these rwo parts, Long or short, 79194 & 25893: https://rebrickable.com/parts/79194/plate-round-1-x-1-with-hollow-stud-and-bar-on-underside-long-space/. I do have the long version part (79194) and find that a little longer wouldn't hurt. The 1L bar with towball, 67692, is too long but it's bar fits nice and tight into 79194. So, I think I'll just cut it to length... It works for me! It only costs $0.08.

Edited February 17 by 1963maniac

[SNIPE]

1 hour ago, 1963maniac said:

I now have part 2393 (cross block with two pins) so I can build this. Rebrickable explains the difference between these rwo parts, Long or short, 79194 & 25893: https://rebrickable.com/parts/79194/plate-round-1-x-1-with-hollow-stud-and-bar-on-underside-long-space/. I do have the long version part (79194) and find that a little longer wouldn't hurt. The 1L bar with towball, 67692, is too long but it's bar fits nice and tight into 79194. So, I think I'll just cut it to length... It works for me! It only costs $0.08.

Sounds good to me. 👍

[Anto]

Here is the video!

 

[R0Sch]

@Anto Nice work! I used to work on DCT's and the shift drum, synchro hubs and shift forks look very similar to the LEGO counterparts iRL. Too bad these new Technic elements are so expensive. I would have bought them from B&P long ago otherwise. I would also love in the future the possibility to make proper DCT transmissions with coaxial inner and outer input shafts and two output shafts. The closest I saw someone come to this type of gearbox was the one posted by @Leviathan.

[Lego Tom]

That is a really cool build! Heck, it would even be a cool stand alone kit. Are you listening LEGO????

[Stereo]

I was thinking about this topic again, pulled out my bucket of gears to see what fit with what, and found an interesting interaction.

(vertical gears are the same type as the one sitting in front of them - 6542a, 6542b, 4019, 94925)

Still on the topic of "1:1 output connect to input via clutch", the obvious solution is the old 16T clutch gear (left) with old 1/2 bush.  Easy to find parts, though the 1/2 bushes are at this point 25+ years old and a lot of mine have split.  That said, when their teeth are meshed to another part, they're pretty stable.

But the old 16T axle gear turns out to also secretly be useful! The 4 nubs it has are the same diameter as the axle-connector that the clutch slides on.  So the old 6539 clutch can actually engage onto it.  The newer clutches don't have interior ridges all the way to the end, so they probably don't work.  Engagement distance is a smidge less than 1 plate with this build.  Which I should note, due to the axle with stop, is actually a bit more than 4 studs long.

The other geometry of note is that bars spaced 1.5 studs apart on center engage with the outside ridges on clutches.  Just a tiny bit farther than 24t gears (which have holes sqrt(2) apart).  If there was a part that could put 2 or 4 bars on a 1.5 stud circle, or a piece a bit smaller than a bar (minifig lipstick? I don't know) it might be possible to engage that way.

 

Thinking logically, the reason the 16t gear nubs work is they're actually antistuds in disguise - just like the axle connector, they're intended to be able to attach directly onto a plate between 4 of the studs, while having a 1 stud outer diameter.  So maybe there are other antistud-sized parts that work.  I seem to remember the old palm trees had something like that in their base.  Palm tree bars maybe? I definitely don't have one at hand the way most of my Technic is, but maybe tomorrow I can dig one up.

 

Also it turns out splat gears have antistuds and can be engaged by the clutches... maybe not useful, maybe a splat gearbox would be fun.

Edited March 20 by Stereo

[2GodBDGlory]

Interesting observations!

[Kumbbl]

On 2/26/2024 at 5:49 PM, Anto said:

Here is the video!

 

very cool - kudos 

[pleegwat]

13 hours ago, Stereo said:

So maybe there are other antistud-sized parts that work.

How about the standard full bush?

EDIT: An axle extender should also work. And if TLG made 2l bars you could use one to keep alignment.

Edited March 20 by pleegwat

[Stereo]

I woke up more clearheaded and probably putting clutches in both sides of a modern gear is the sensible solution.  One permanently, one controllable.  Though that makes it a 2 1/2 wide thing, and probably needs something to hold the clutch in place (put it on full bush + 1/2 bush instead of axle connector?).  So if there was a gear that works directly that's still more compact.

Edited March 20 by Stereo

[2GodBDGlory]

2 hours ago, Stereo said:

I woke up more clearheaded and probably putting clutches in both sides of a modern gear is the sensible solution.  One permanently, one controllable.  Though that makes it a 2 1/2 wide thing, and probably needs something to hold the clutch in place (put it on full bush + 1/2 bush instead of axle connector?).  So if there was a gear that works directly that's still more compact.

This here is what I've done in the past for a linear connection:

It's not really legal, but it's pretty strong and reliable enough, in my experience.

Still not as compact as a dedicated part, though!

[SNIPE]

On 2/12/2024 at 10:11 AM, SNIPE said:

One thing I found that works is this:

The white plate round with handle on underside is slightly too short, but because the stud goes into a pinhole its hard for the driving ring to slip out of place anyway.

Note that you must use this part and not this one

dang I just got the minifig microphones and unfortunatley they fit fine with the blue selector, infact its very smooth

But they are slightly too long to fit inside of the semi-hollow stud of the plate with bar on underside (short stem version)

Soo idk what to do now...

[Stereo]

I don't have the new driving rings yet irl, but maybe you can use hollow 1x1 plate instead, possibly with a minifig skate or something in it?  On the old driving rings it looks like it's 1/2 plate thick, so 2 plate constructions like this will fit.  I don't know if the pins on the black piece are already engaging the ring either.

[SNIPE]

15 minutes ago, Stereo said:

I don't have the new driving rings yet irl, but maybe you can use hollow 1x1 plate instead, possibly with a minifig skate or something in it?  On the old driving rings it looks like it's 1/2 plate thick, so 2 plate constructions like this will fit.  I don't know if the pins on the black piece are already engaging the ring either.

tested and working, very clever, thanks!

EDIT: oh wait, there is too much play inbetween the groove in the clutch ring and the ice skate piece

Edited April 5 by SNIPE

[1963maniac]

I just tried using 22484 bar with towball, which works well if you cut off a couple mm from the end of the bar. Also part 65578 works very well when placed similarly to 79194/25893. Part 65578 must be fully seated to work well and not be too tight/long.

22484 65578