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@Thirdwigg there will be complications with front chassis part because of battery box below bonnet, but I wanted sturdy model. I'll see if Xerion solution with upside down small linear actuator will be to big, worm gear solution will be used

 

The only thing that causes me a headachse are PF Servo(s); after a while the wheels get missaligned due to universal and CV joints usage (they are a bit loose) and if I install Servo on bith axles, there is no space for pto shafts... :ugh:

Edited by 1gor

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On 8/1/2023 at 1:29 PM, eric trax said:

I think it looks very good. I look forward to further progress :)

Currently I'm building additional chassis to use 2 PF servos on axles... like your latest model I use XL motor(s - coupled) with upgearing 40 to 24 tooth and new differentials from Ferrari Daytona. At the end there are reduction hubs. I have found out that older 40 tooth to 24 tooth has significantly less friction than 36 to 28 bevels. When I finish this bare chassis as planned, modules with left and right stairs would just be detached from older and attached to new chassis :wink:

Edited by 1gor

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On 8/1/2023 at 1:29 PM, eric trax said:

I think it looks very good. I look forward to further progress :)

So far I have managed to integrate PF servo on each axle, use coupled XL motors for drive and L motors for front and rear PTO. In the middle of chassis, there is a 11 x 7 frame to hold rechargible battery box. Later, I'll install tires to see steering angle and to tweek front and rear. Bonnet and roof are remaining from previus iterations as you can see on those (moderate quality) pictures below:

800x600.jpg

800x600.jpg

800x600.jpg

800x600.jpg

 

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@HorcikDesigns if you are still intetested, here is a prototype (only one side done due to searching my inventory for 5 extra suspension arms 5L):

800x600.jpg

800x600.jpg

As you can see (frame 5 x 11 used as width indicator) overall width wigh tires should be about 21 studs...

It will use this kind of propulsion...

800x600.jpg

(When I fix wire issue with one motor)

Edited by 1gor

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3 minutes ago, HorcikDesigns said:

@1gor I do not remember I was interested, honestly (sorry), but now I definitely am. Nice half-axle with differential axle, do I see correctly?

Yes, real Tatra has only one central axle (if I remembered correctly), so I've tried to make something realistic, but I don't need locking differentials. If 6 x 6 dish could cover Defender wheel (which I doubt due holes near rim), then I could implement with 36 tooth gear instead of 20 tooth...of course when it will be time for it (now it is time to cut and chop firewoods because it is dry enough).

You were wondering when I mentioned that I need 21 studs overall width with tires, since your 8 x 8 (I think it was second version with 12 bevel and 28 double bevel gears) is 26 studs wide (I'm a bit lazy to search forum and post a link to ...)...

No worries; in complex live in modern society we tend to forgot things in order not to burn out :wink:

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After some (longer) time, I have something new; thanks to genius @Zerobricks I decided to take another chance for narrow steering axle using (Daytona) differential and planetary hubs, so here is a result

800x374.jpg

800x374.jpg

800x374.jpg

Since original tractor has 4 link suspension at front, this axle could be the solution for 1:18 scale Fastrac 8330. Steering angle is acceptable even with wide balloon 94.8 x 44 wheels (no tire rubbing), but with upcoming 94.3 x 38 (CADA) tractor tire it would be perfect (less than 20 studs overall width over tires). Perhaps I would have to lower shock absorbers or hide the more inside bonnet...

Real tractor as template...

4wd-traktori-fastrac-8330-jcb.jpg

@Jim I don't know if it is appropriate to post link to this post in Axle collection tread. If you find this is acceptable idea, I'll post there.

Edited by 1gor

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Well done, Igor! I like how you used the flip flop beam with the steering rack, great idea and should be very robust!

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Great progress, Igor!

Can you show the internals?

Also what Cada model has these new tires? 

Edited by Jundis

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On 12/23/2023 at 10:02 PM, Zerobricks said:

Well done, Igor! I like how you used the flip flop beam with the steering rack, great idea and should be very robust!

It is indeed, solutions with connectors were to weak and they tend to warn out.

On 12/23/2023 at 10:03 PM, Jundis said:

Great progress, Igor!

Can you show the internals?

Also what Cada model has these new tires? 

Internal is not such big deal, daytona differential has at one side axle 2 and at other side axle 4. It is "braced" by 2 yellow gears 14 tooth. I can partly rebuild it tomorrow with light bluish gray frame 5 x 7 if you want

Tire 94.3 x 38 tractor should appear in CLAAS Dominator 370

Answer about tire is in this post

 

 

Edited by 1gor

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14 hours ago, Jundis said:

Great progress, Igor!

Can you show the internals?

Also what Cada model has these new tires? 

Johannes, here is image of internals (2 gears 14 tooth with differential from Daytona)

Somehow bricksafe is cropping my image...

BTW I have just compared my axle height (with shock absorbers) and bonnet and there is no need to make any change to axle, so later today I could try to optimise middle chassis part with coupled XL motors to fit front (and later rear) axle.

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Main chassis structure with partially done rear axle (need to make front part containing PF Servo)

800x374.jpg

...and tires for proportions. You can see that there is enough steering space even for fat 94.8 x 44 baloon tires

800x374.jpg

 

Of course Fastrac will have yellow rims.

Drive system (with coupled XL motors) will have 40 to 24 tooth upgear, then 14 to 22 tooth Daytona differentials and reduction hubs at end;

40/24 × 14/22 / 5.4 = 0.1964085297

Which give 61.2 mm per Pf motors revolution

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On 12/23/2023 at 2:18 PM, 1gor said:

After some (longer) time, I have something new; thanks to genius @Zerobricks I decided to take another chance for narrow steering axle using (Daytona) differential and planetary hubs, so here is a result

Huh, so is the innovative part of it leaving the O-frame out to allow placing the CV joint right next to the differential, and then just counting on the heavy-duty differential teeth not skipping despite having less reinforcement?

That's smart!

Edited by 2GodBDGlory

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11 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Huh, so is the innovative part of it leaving the O-frame out to allow placing the CV joint right next to the differential, and then just counting on the heavy-duty differential teeth not skipping despite having less reinforcement?

That's smart!

Actually I have 2 frames 5 x 7 and differential is also braced with 2 yellow gears 14 tooth to prevent skipping. I didnt test it with 10kg weights, but it is ok for normal trailer etc...

Edited by 1gor

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22 hours ago, 1gor said:

Johannes, here is image of internals (2 gears 14 tooth with differential from Daytona)

Somehow bricksafe is cropping my image...

BTW I have just compared my axle height (with shock absorbers) and bonnet and there is no need to make any change to axle, so later today I could try to optimise middle chassis part with coupled XL motors to fit front (and later rear) axle.

Ah thanks!

Ok, if the bracing with the 2 gear sturdy yellow gears is enough, then cool :-)

I'll wait for a new ball bearing socket, I'm hope TLG will come up with them soon :-P

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19 minutes ago, Jundis said:

 

I'll wait for a new ball bearing socket, I'm hope TLG will come up with them soon :-P

That was my hope last few years, but I'm not optimistic; they could not release 94.3 x 38 tire (despite having mold with different tread)...so I'm happy that I made compromise solution with existing parts...it is a kind of rotten compromise because there is no space to use new stronger CV joints to connect front axle to chassis

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17 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Huh, so is the innovative part of it leaving the O-frame out to allow placing the CV joint right next to the differential, and then just counting on the heavy-duty differential teeth not skipping despite having less reinforcement?

That's smart!

After one evening of testing I must admit that pulling power is really great, no skipping gear and it pulls very very smooth, but solution of front axle is far from perfect; when turning to the left sometimes gear rack connectors on reduction hit lower 5 x 7 frame and tractor doesn't steer. Also XL motors are to big for such small model (22 studs wheelbase), so I can put battery box inside (chassis is 1 stud to thick). When I try to make chassis stiff enough, then middle chassis part is 10 studs thick (but according proportions it should be 8 studs) to mantain 17 studs width (chassis is always 2500mm wide, so 17 studs in Lego; max width over wheels is 2900mm so some 20 studs which fits perfect). It seems that I'll have to keep XL motors for harvesters and trucks (that I plan in future...) and switch to 2 PF L motors...

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