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After my experiences at the full week of Lego World Utrecht I decided to do a complete redesign and rebuild of my stand alone GBC version of the Akiyuki based marble run. Only the method of clamping the tubes as tracks is the same as in the previous version. The ball shooter had proven it's reliability during Lego World and because of the improved design only one shooter is used. Very pleased with the now reliable result.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olx4JmtnVq4

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Edited by Berthil

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That's very cool! 

How do you conect the rigid hose together so it doesn't interfere with the balls? 

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58 minutes ago, Oliver 79 said:

How do you connect the rigid hose together so it doesn't interfere with the balls? 

A 1x4 plate and two Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Vertical, that's the tube clamping method I kept from the Akiyuki design because that cannot be improved and doesn't need to be improved.

Edited by Berthil

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looks good.. I would guess that this tyre might leave less rubber on the balls than the usual softer-rubber technic tyres?

 

I love the spin the balls have, when they exit at the top, and go backwards a little bit! :)

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1 hour ago, RohanBeckett said:

looks good.. I would guess that this tyre might leave less rubber on the balls than the usual softer-rubber technic tyres?

Thanks. There is no residu on the balls and very little wear on the tire. I've tested the previous GBC with the same concept during Lego World for a few days and it should be okay for longer periods of time.

The launching pad is entirely embedded in rubber (45590) to compensate for tolerances in dimensions to avoid too high forces.

Edited by Berthil

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remind me.. have you done instructions for this? :) I may have enough piping to make this - albeit a bit more rainbow coloured! :)

 

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Just now, RohanBeckett said:

remind me.. have you done instructions for this? :) I may have enough piping to make this - albeit a bit more rainbow coloured! :)

 

Just finished building it so no instructions for it, sorry. The previous version had almost 16 meters of 3mm tube, this one probably a bit less I think.

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maybe just a few photos from the other side... to see how the wheel is geared, and lines up?

I see you've altered a bit of the track layout from the Akiyuki one... but the bulk of it is similar structure

 

Instructions are very time-consuming to create.. I don't blame you in not wanting to make them! :)

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1 hour ago, RohanBeckett said:

maybe just a few photos from the other side... to see how the wheel is geared, and lines up?

I see you've altered a bit of the track layout from the Akiyuki one... but the bulk of it is similar structure

 

yes also curious as to how this is done

1 hour ago, RohanBeckett said:

Instructions are very time-consuming to create.. I don't blame you in not wanting to make them! :)

 many hands make light work, I would like to help in making instructions for this as I have all the tubing

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I took the launch pad out and made some detailed shots. I wanted to have the drive motor under the wheel to keep the top as clean as possible, as you can see this was a challenge together with the launch pad but I'm very pleased with the result.

Launchpad with two rubber connector to ensure good grip when launching the ball with the wheel, at the right the two axles that keep the launch pad in place when mounted:
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Bottom of launch pad with two neck braces to create a good ball entry/exit and wedge shape under the wheel so the wheel 'eats' the ball always:
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The row of rubber connectors where the launch pad sits on, the launch pad can go nowhere when everything is mounted:
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Shot from other angle where also the axle is visible that runs up to the wheel through two smooth joint pin connectors (48496) on both sides:
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Here the launch pad has been dropped in with the neck braces on the exit side to create the wedge shape, the yellow axle with 4 rubber connectors hold the launch pad down:
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Bottom with gearing and two axles going up through the smooth joint pin connectors (48496):
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Side without the liftarm holding the wheel down showing the 4 pins of the 2 smooth joint pin connectors (48496):
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Now that I see the pictures it could be I will try using 1x4 thin liftarms to place the 4 rubber connectors upwards under the launching pad for more damping :)

Edited by Berthil
bottom remark

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Nice pics! thanks!  a lot more complicated than I thought!  I never thought you'd need rubber under the wheel too?

 

oh... so many shiny black pieces!   I'm constantly running out of mine - using an akiyuki style stepper input box for a custom GBC... and its a mix of grays and other colours!  (limited monthly lego budget here! hahaha)

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