Buying PF?

[JaseTJ]

There might be a topic for this already, but I didn't see anything skimming through the first page here, so I figured I'd just ask. To put it simply: I'm looking at getting some Power Functions so that I can include motors and lights in MOCs. I'm not well-acquainted with Technic at all, but I have plenty of axles/gears/whatnot to start me off from various System and Bionicle sets.

Could anyone help me figure out what to get? I want the best quality and I'm willing to pay for it (If that doesn't sum up having Lego as a hobby...), even if I have to save up a bit longer, so cost isn't as big a deal. But I don't want to waste money on things that aren't going to be as useful. I'm looking purely at what Lego has under "Power Functions" on S@H, but if there are other good places feel free to mention them.

A few questions to start:

-Speed Remote Control vs. Normal one? The price is obviously different, but both have 4 channels and the two control sticks or whatever. If the only difference is that the one affects speed and the other is more of a "Stop/Go," is there really a reason to get the cheaper one instead of the more capable one?

-Motor Sizes? From what I'm seeing I feel like the best way to go would be to get one or two of each motor size, so that I can build whatever without worrying about not having a strong enough or fast enough motor, as they can manage different levels of torque and different speeds. Is there any glaring reason one of them doesn't work as well as the others, or is it purely based on what you need?

-Batteries? I'm seeing two types of battery boxes. The one has a rechargeable variant for 5x the cost, which doesn't seem worth it to me, so I'd assume the AAA version would be more economical in general. (I suppose I might go through $40 worth of AAA's in time, but do the charges last long enough, etc, for it to be worth it for some reason?) And more importantly, is there a specific reason to get the battery box with the switch on it?

[JJ2]

@JaseTJ

I think the Lego shop is the best place to get PF because it is brand new and if one breaks you can get a replacement.

For buying, motors - battery boxes I think since you said "from various System and Bionicle sets" I think your best bet is to get M-motors because they have studs that make them easier to use in system MOC's and a AAA battery box for the same reasons.

If you get the AAA battery box just use rechargeable batteries instead of spending $50 but the rechargeable battery box is WAY lighter.

A speed remote is best for trains - stationary MOC's that need proportional control but you have to change speed slowly for the receiver to keep up with the remote. The normal remote is best for RC cars because of the easy controls.

Hope this helped!

[JaseTJ]

I hadn't much considered the ease of attachment; that could end up being the big decider. I'll probably start with the M motors and that battery, then, and only get the others if I have a specific need for them at some point. :)

As for weight of the battery boxes, I could see myself wanting it light or heavy, potentially. I suppose I'll stick to the cheaper option here for starters.

And for the remotes... I don't have any trains, but I've considered getting them. I'll probably go for just the Speed remote initially.

Yeah, thanks much!

[technical]

Yeah! I know exactly the position you're in, JaseTJ. Here's what you should buy for maximum PF fun. You might as well buy all these things if you are going to dive into this, because it's really not that many parts and it's cheap compared to Mindstorms. It will make you like Technic a lot more, too.

All this costs only US$100 retail, including some extra motors!

8293 LEGO Technic Power Functions Motor Set - core set

8879 LEGO Power Functions IR Speed Remote Control - you will want this controller because it can vary the motor speed

8885 LEGO Power Functions IR Remote Control - you will want this to drive tank-like steering vehicles, which will be most of them

8884 LEGO Power Functions IR Receiver

8870 LEGO Power Functions Light - buy more of them if you really like lights, there is no limit to the number of devices connected

8886 LEGO Power Functions Extension Wire - 20cm extension you may need for some projects if you need to put the battery far from the components

8883 LEGO Power Functions M-Motor - small motor, super useful, buy a grip of them

8882 LEGO Power Functions XL-Motor - big motor for big stuff

Enjoy.

Edited January 13, 2016 by technical

[dr_spock]

If you're getting an IR remote or speed controllers, don't forget to add a IR receiver to your shop list.

Depending on what you're doing, an M motor and battery box is all is required. You can build a gear box to change the speed of motor output.

[technical]

If you're getting an IR remote or speed controllers, don't forget to add a IR receiver to your shop list.

Depending on what you're doing, an M motor and battery box is all is required. You can build a gear box to change the speed of motor output.

I noticed I forgot it, added it. Thanks :)

[Karle]

One thing not mentioned is the S-brick for RC control. The price is not that much greater than the IR receiver/transmitters and the performance is much better. You can use them out doors in bright sun light and at a much greater range. Each brick has four outputs and can be hidden inside your creation.

Edited January 13, 2016 by Karle

[dhc6twinotter]

Personally, I don't like the speed controller for most of the things I've built. They are good for things that don't require constant input, so props on a plane, rotors on a helicopter, tractor PTOs, and trains are all good candidates for the speed controller. For most other functions, including drive, I prefer the cheaper bang-bang remotes.

You can use up to four IR receivers at once, and each receiver has two outputs. This will give you a total of eight functions that you can operate.

[JaseTJ]

Can you not use Lego's RCs in bright sunlight...? Does it mess with the IR sensors or something? I'm definitely not planning to get an SBrick at the beginning due to it's extra cost alone, plus I'm more of a purist... I don't know how I really feel about using non-Lego. If Lego's stuff felt lacking I'd be more likely to look into it, but that requires buying Lego's first

Also, don't be surprised if you guys see me back here late this summer asking about gearboxes and stuff... I'm intending on waiting to get the PF until I can save up for the Helicarrier as well, without having to buy it all on credit or emptying my account :P

Edited January 13, 2016 by JaseTJ

[dr_spock]

Our LUG runs PF trains outdoor at picnic events. We haven't noticed problems with sunlight. You do have to aim the remote at the IR receiver as it is line of sight and there are no walls or ceiling to reflect the IR signals outdoors. I suppose sunlight in the 960nm infrared light can run interference just like a microwave oven can cause RF interference for Bluetooth or Wifi devices in the 2.4GHz band.

I do notice PF can get sluggish when playing TechBall. You are competing with 3 other contestants each with a PF remote, all sending commands at the same time. Not sure if Sbricks are allowed under official TechBall rules.

Personally, I don't like the speed controller for most of the things I've built. They are good for things that don't require constant input, so props on a plane, rotors on a helicopter, tractor PTOs, and trains are all good candidates for the speed controller. For most other functions, including drive, I prefer the cheaper bang-bang remotes.

You can use up to four IR receivers at once, and each receiver has two outputs. This will give you a total of eight functions that you can operate.

I found speed controllers worked better for controlling the 42030 Volvo loader than the bang-bang remotes. Particularily for steering with the servo motor. Pressing the stop button automatically centers the steering and the knob provides 14 steps of proportional steering. You can also control the speed of the loader and bucket.

[zux]

There are many choices you need to do! It depends on what you actually wish to achieve as each motor has different properties. You can find main specs in Sariel's chart and decide what you actually need in terms of speed/torque/size.

M-motor is the most suitable for System. However you can still can find ways of attaching L and XL-motors if needed, so don't dismiss them just because they lack some System connection points.

There are 3 battery boxes. Li-po one is the lightest, but is most expensive. Two other for AA and AAA batteries are used more often. While AAA battery box is lighter AA box will give longer running times if space is not an issue.

Even IR Receivers are available in two options. V1 is unmarked as is sold in LEGO online shop. Another one is called "V2" and is marked accordingly. It is can handle more power, however it is not directly available from LEGO and has only been released in small number of sets. So you would need to look on BL for these.

[dr_spock]

I think there are problems driving two or more M-motors off the same channel on the V2 IR Receiver. But it is fine for the other motor types.

[Josephiah]

It may also be worth comparing the price of the 42030 Volvo set with the cost of the individual PF elements it contains, to see if that's an economical option (one of each motor, IR, and lots of technic parts).

[Jonfensu]

Hi. I am not going to create another topic, so I will ask here.

Do you recommend buy a 2ND hand PF in BL? What should I consider before buying a M/L motor and BB?

[flyboy01]

Hi. I am not going to create another topic, so I will ask here.

Do you recommend buy a 2ND hand PF in BL? What should I consider before buying a M/L motor and BB?

I agree with him in the way that, even though its more expensive on bricklink, is it worth it?

[dr_spock]

Hi. I am not going to create another topic, so I will ask here.

Do you recommend buy a 2ND hand PF in BL? What should I consider before buying a M/L motor and BB?

I think you are better buying new from LEGO. If you buy $75 CAD or more, you can get free shipping from LEGO.com.

It might be easier to get replacement from LEGO if you have a sales receipt from them.

Lowest price for new M-motor on Bricklink is $13 CAD. On LEGO Shop@Home is $10 CAD.

Used motors can be hit or miss. But if you're on a tight budget, then they are an option.

[Sakel]

I had several pf motors when I quit lego in 2010, and after recently beginning working with lego again, the motors still work great, but some of the BB components have become corroded. This is evident on the AA boxes, I opened one to clean the contacts and the board inside had turned to powder. The AAA box seems fine, perhaps because it uses a button instead of a slider.

TL;DR: Used motors should be fine, beware of used battery boxes.

[Kelkschiz]

You may also want to take a look at Philo's homepage. He has a lot of info about the PF system on there (www.philohome.com).

The Sbrick is far superior to the PF IR system in my opinion. Outdoors the PF IR range is about 2 meters in the sun. You should look into it there are a lot more differences.

I always buy my motors new from LEGO. So I know what I buy and it has warrenty.