[MOC] 0-6-0 Steam Engine

[Rail Co]

Hey guys! I don't do very many MOCs but I do like to do them when I have the time. This time around I wanted to do something that I have not done before, 1. being I have never done a steam engine and 2. a train that does not use a conventional train motor bogie, I would have to build by own and it couldn't be exposed. Keeping that in mind I dove in and started building, this is not based on any train in particular which gave me some freedom on what I could put in. I also wanted to keep some of the classic LEGO train style in my model along with some newer styles.

So the only thing to say is Enjoy and constructive criticism is encouraged!

MOC 0-6-0 Steam Engine. by Rail Co, on Flickr

The main classic element is the 45 degree slopes for the boiler, honestly I love the shape and I am glad I implemented it.

MOC 0-6-0 Steam Engine by Rail Co, on Flickr

IMG_20150625_183803639 by Rail Co, on Flickr

IMG_20150625_184207431 by Rail Co, on Flickr

The whistle is made up of gold and silver 1x1 stud pieces The boiler uses A black minifigure head and a round 1x1 piece used for dumbbells in the Collectable minifigure series. I was able to find a chrome piece which looked good on the engine and I really like that.

IMG_20150625_183926425 by Rail Co, on Flickr

The Medium motor is hidden inside the boiler and behind the 2 side tanks on the engine making completely hidden from view on the outside

I hope you like the train if you would like to see another view just ask.

Enjoy!

-RailCo

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Fantastic MOC!

Very inspiring ...so little and so perfect!

I love this work!

[IronFish]

Something I might suggest doing, is removing the section on the back, and making a tender for it, and put a battery box in that, as I'm guessing that you have the battery box in the car that goes directly behind the engine. Just a suggestion.

[Rail Co]

Fantastic MOC!

Very inspiring ...so little and so perfect!

I love this work!

Thank you very much for your kind words LT12V! My models can't even come close to the models you make but i'm glad you like it!

Something I might suggest doing, is removing the section on the back, and making a tender for it, and put a battery box in that, as I'm guessing that you have the battery box in the car that goes directly behind the engine. Just a suggestion.

I did think about doing that to be honest, I just don't have the parts to make a tender plus I believe most 0-6-0 Tank Trains do not have a tender attached to them. I am still trying to think of a design for the carriage that will follow the train to house the battery and receiver.

Thanks

-RailCo

[Commander Wolf]

plus I believe most 0-6-0 Tank Trains do not have a tender attached to them.

By definition a "tank engine" wouldn't generally have a tender attached to it, but at least in the US and UK there were definitely non-tank 0-6-0s that had tenders.

[Rail Co]

By definition a "tank engine" wouldn't generally have a tender attached to it, but at least in the US and UK there were definitely non-tank 0-6-0s that had tenders.

I may of misunderstood but the engines with the dual tanks around the boiler (one on each side) that I have seen with a tender but I have seen other 0-6-0s with tenders.

I just feel like a tender would not work with this locomotive it may just be me though

Thanks

-RailCo

[zephyr1934]

Now this is truly a fine bit of 1980-something technology, you did a great job of capturing the feel of 12v trains. And for your first steam MOC starting with an 0-X-0 is always a wise choice. Even with the retro feel there are a lot of nice details, e.g., the fence of grill tiles around the coal bunker. At least in the last shot it really feels like a small branch line or logging railroad engine.

In the US there were plenty of 0-6-0 switch engines with tenders (non-tank) but your build definitely has the feel (and buffers) of a European locomotive. Plus, with a tender you would likely want to remove the tanks from the side of the boiler.

There is only one thing gnawing at me... and it is the same thing I hate most about the EN... those tecnic pins in tan. Depending on what you have inside the frame, you might be able to replace them with 2 long or 3 long technic axles with a thin bushing on the inside. I really wish Lego have simply made those non-friction technic pins in black for the EN, it can be a real pain to work around.

[Rail Co]

Now this is truly a fine bit of 1980-something technology, you did a great job of capturing the feel of 12v trains. And for your first steam MOC starting with an 0-X-0 is always a wise choice. Even with the retro feel there are a lot of nice details, e.g., the fence of grill tiles around the coal bunker. At least in the last shot it really feels like a small branch line or logging railroad engine.

In the US there were plenty of 0-6-0 switch engines with tenders (non-tank) but your build definitely has the feel (and buffers) of a European locomotive. Plus, with a tender you would likely want to remove the tanks from the side of the boiler.

There is only one thing gnawing at me... and it is the same thing I hate most about the EN... those tecnic pins in tan. Depending on what you have inside the frame, you might be able to replace them with 2 long or 3 long technic axles with a thin bushing on the inside. I really wish Lego have simply made those non-friction technic pins in black for the EN, it can be a real pain to work around.

Thank you for your comments zephyr1934 they are much appreciated. Yes I was looking at the tan pins and I didn't think of using a small technic pin but I don't think it will work because I have a gear going through there that is essential to the bogie running (connects to the motor) but if I am able to shift that I'll change it for sure!

Thanks again

-RailCo

Edited June 26, 2015 by Rail Co

[Rail Co]

I came to thinking about BBB Wheels and thought that the Red standard wheels would look a lot better. I am wondering if anyone had used traction tires (preferably O-Rings) on the smallest wheels they offer and if they stay on while in use.

Also has anyone been able to make piston rods for these type wheels that look good and work well? I am curious because I haven't found one that would look good or isn't to bulky. @zephyr1934 I am wondering if any of your piston rods that you custom make would work with a couple other pieces on these particular wheels.

Thanks so much!

-RailCo

Edited June 27, 2015 by Rail Co

[dr_spock]

Nice. It could be a good engine to pull the 7710 Push Train from the 1980.

[zephyr1934]

Thank you for your comments zephyr1934 they are much appreciated. Yes I was looking at the tan pins and I didn't think of using a small technic pin but I don't think it will work because I have a gear going through there that is essential to the bogie running (connects to the motor) but if I am able to shift that I'll change it for sure!

Thanks again

-RailCo

The technic axle pins without friction did come in black in two sets from the 1980's, but good luck in actually finding them (most listings on bricklink are misclassified pins with friction). Though I suppose the tan pins are nothing a black sharpie marker can't fix (grin).

I came to thinking about BBB Wheels and thought that the Red standard wheels would look a lot better. I am wondering if anyone had used traction tires (preferably O-Rings) on the smallest wheels they offer and if they stay on while in use.

Also has anyone been able to make piston rods for these type wheels that look good and work well? I am curious because I haven't found one that would look good or isn't to bulky. @zephyr1934 I am wondering if any of your piston rods that you custom make would work with a couple other pieces on these particular wheels.

Thanks so much!

-RailCo

I've seen piston rods that look bulky for these wheels using technic crank shafts off of the central axle...

I think they add 3 studs to the width of your model and be warned that the clutch of the axle receiver is not very strong. It still can work in select situations. I borrowed the idea from someone else and used it here on a very cartoony steam engine, but I don't remember who did it first.

I've seen some good mods to the wheels where someone drilled a hole through the wheels to insert a pin (I think they used a technic beam with axle hole to position the drill bit). I'm sure in either case I could fab a rod to fit (brickshelf is being flaky at the moment so I can't show you an example), but if you go either of these routes I'd suggest trying your chosen mod first to make sure you like they way it is heading before purchasing any custom rods.

[Rail Co]

Thank you for your suggestions on the piston rods. I tried the crank shaft piece but it is to bulky for what I want and even just spinning it on my own power it was falling off. If I can find the parts in my collection I may be able to make a realistic sized one using the 2 axle plates (could not find an image but all it is is 2 axle holes on a small plate like a shape of and oval) along with the axle and the tow ball (the ball joint), with that I would add the technic plate and cut off the ball joint but not the stopper piece to hold in the plate. Hopefully that works but I may need to order new tow joints because I don't want to ruin the ones I have.

Thanks

-RailCo

[Dread Pirate Rob]

Also has anyone been able to make piston rods for these type wheels that look good and work well? I am curious because I haven't found one that would look good or isn't to bulky. @zephyr1934 I am wondering if any of your piston rods that you custom make would work with a couple other pieces on these particular wheels.

My little 0-4-0 tank engine had working pistons. I used the cams Zephyr suggested and yes, you have to use new 6 stud technic axels so that they have as much grip as possible.

My smallest PF steam engine to date by Canvas Rails, on Flickr

I also used a simpler system on my bigger tank engine.

Small by Canvas Rails, on Flickr

Don't tell the purists but I snipped the end off of the technic axel on the crank shaft to give me enough clearance to run on 12v track geometry.

If you are going to use the crank shafts they are much more reliable if you put a little graphite into the side rod bearings. If you don't have graphite you can crush the end of a 4B pencil and use that. Just dont get any on the technic axel through the wheels ot the crank shaft will keep falling off.

Great little locomotive you have there, Love the grey era:)

[Rail Co]

My little 0-4-0 tank engine had working pistons. I used the cams Zephyr suggested and yes, you have to use new 6 stud technic axels so that they have as much grip as possible.

Don't tell the purists but I snipped the end off of the technic axel on the crank shaft to give me enough clearance to run on 12v track geometry.

If you are going to use the crank shafts they are much more reliable if you put a little graphite into the side rod bearings. If you don't have graphite you can crush the end of a 4B pencil and use that. Just dont get any on the technic axel through the wheels ot the crank shaft will keep falling off.

Great little locomotive you have there, Love the grey era:)

Do they not fall off though? Maybe I misunderstood the graphite suggestion but when I tried them the fell off easily. I never really think to cut the axle but honestly if I get them as extra parts it wouldn't hurt to plus it will make my loco that much better in my opinion

Thanks

-RailCo

[Dread Pirate Rob]

Do they not fall off though? Maybe I misunderstood the graphite suggestion but when I tried them the fell off easily. I never really think to cut the axle but honestly if I get them as extra parts it wouldn't hurt to plus it will make my loco that much better in my opinion

Thanks

-RailCo

So long as the 6 stud axel is new and the crank shaft is new it should hold. Mine have only fallen off after some serious high speed running on bumpy track. The graphite goes on the bearings for the side rods indicated by the green arrows. If any graphite gets between the wheels and the cranks (red arrows) the whole assembly will fly off on a regular basis. On the up side, the kids at exhibitions love this when it happens...

graphite by Canvas Rails, on Flickr

[Legotom]

Lovely little engine. I think red wheels would look great, very German ( if that's what you want). A version in dark green would be lovely, would look like a GWR tank engine then I think.

[THERIZE]

So beautiful! Does she run well? (Steam Locos are female !

Edited June 28, 2015 by THERIZE

[Rail Co]

@Dread Pirate Rob: I did try the clutch axle and it does work if I use a longer axle (the 7 long axle). I do not have any new ones (the ones I have are at least 10 years old). Hopefully I can get some new ones and try that so thank you and zephyr for your help with this plus with the linkage it works a lot better (distributes the torque evenly).

Lovely little engine. I think red wheels would look great, very German ( if that's what you want). A version in dark green would be lovely, would look like a GWR tank engine then I think.

Thank you for your nice comment, a dark green version would be lovely now that you mention it. Sadly I don't have very many dark green pieces but that is a good idea!

So beautiful! Does she run well? (Steam Locos are female !

Thank you for your kind comment! She runs pretty well sometimes a little shaky but with the piston rods I tested earlier she runs a little better. A side note I thought all machinery were female .