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Showing results for tags 'Help'.
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Hello Guys :) Being working on a MAN GTS 6x6 Truck. Here´s the LDD Im having a few Problems with the last axle tho. It is powered through the 2nd axle. I think it will be very weak. Do you guys have some Solutions how the last axle can be as powerful as the 2nd? Without doing big Upgrades on that what i have done till now?
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Hi, all. I realize this may not be the appropriate subforum for what I'm asking, but I know you all will be the most knowledgeable regarding my Question, and it is a somewhat time sensitive one. I would like to purchase a Black Noble Kanohi Rau, which I Know would be a customly painted item... and I need it by monday. Maybe what I ask is impossible, but I wanted to know if any of you would be able to direct me to where I may order one such item in the first place. If you have an idea, I'm all ears. If you want to know the reason, I'm planning to make tohunga Ahkmou, my brother's favorite Bionicle character. He liked that he "hated everyone" and was as far as he was concerned, a magnificent bastard. I may consider self-done customization as well, and if no one here knows of a source by which I can acquire a very legitimate looking custom, I'll try looking for a tutorial on how to do this kind of thing myself. ~Insectoid Aristocrat
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Update: Read Fourth Post!!! Since the second week of August, I have been extremely busy lately making something that is far more advanced than anything I have ever tried before, recreating the Rogue One trailer in Lego. I am doing this fully-CG and have been putting in every little detail into the shots. However, despite my great results, it is taking a very long time to do, and to get done in a good amount of time, I need to save some. That is where you guys come in! I am requesting help from Eurobricks members to recreate this trailer in Lego! What I would need is help creating assets for shots in LDD so that when it comes time to actually get the animation right, I can focus more on the shot composition rather than creating the Lego models, thereby helping me to finish this thing quicker. Everything other than Star Destroyers and the Death Star is minifigure-scale, EVERYTHING. This is something that I really want to maintain because one of the things that made The Lego Movie so great was that everything had the correct scaling and it helped set us into this enormous world of Lego. I would like to state that in my time here on Eurobricks, I have met the best builders in the world, and you guys are capable of making truly special things and of helping this thing getting complete. If you would like to work on assets for a shot, or multiple shots, please PM me and we can discuss what shot/what asset(s), etc. Be aware that this does not include minifigure prints, I am covering that myself for animation reasons, this will be for assets like tables, cliffs, buildings, ships, etc. I am thankful for anyone who helps me out with this, and you will be given credit for your work in the final video. Here are three decent-quality frames from what I have so far (The real thing is in 4K). There is a lot more done than this, but I don't want to give too much away before the trailer's release:
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Hello LEGO Minifigure enthusiasts! My study group and i, are currently doing a project about the company... ... Best regards Davidhasselhoff
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Recently I've been trying to attach those armor shells from Knights Kingdom to an CCBS bone or shell. Especially this one: http://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-4244770 I wanted to attach them to the CCBS Shell to make some nice looking pauldrons, but came to an halt when I tried to find a way. But I somehow cant seem to find any way to attach them. I also tried building some custom limbs, but the results weren't good. So I wanted to ask, do you know any good examples or techniques on how to attach them? -
Hello, I am new here. I made a MOC about T-rex vs Triceratops. But I am not sure which section of this forum most fits them. Thank you for some directions. Here is a sample image. and my LEGO Ideas project Extreme Evolution: Arctic Triceratops Your support would mean a lot to me. Thank you. -
Any tips on ways to put it in and use it with nly a small amount of space? * I meant only -
I've been looking for a Lego Gas Mask so I can create a minifig based off my profile pic. The best I can find is at http://modernbrickwa....com/gas-masks/ but I'm not sure how they attach to Minifigs, (Like if I need a custom helmet as well) or if they are of good quality. Does anyone have any experiences with Gas Masks from MBW or know of another seller of Minifig Gas Masks?
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I booted up Lego Avengers again after a while today, and wanted to get the new stuff. I bought the Season Pass when I got the game, but now I can't find any indication of where I'm supposed to go to unlock the characters or the levels. Does anyone else know how to solve this? -
I booted up Lego Avengers again after a while today, and wanted to get the new stuff. I bought the Season Pass when I got the game, but now I can't find any indication of where I'm supposed to go to unlock the characters or the levels. Does anyone else know how to solve this?
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Hi! I'm working on my instructions for my 42043-C model. but i have some problems with lpub. been making the 3D file in both MLcad and LDcad and it worked fine until I added some pneumatic hoses in LDcad. After adding the pneumatic hoses Lpub is not loading any of my submodels, but only the main file. main file is a [MPD] file, and all the submodels incl the pneumatics are [LDR]files. this is how it looks when opening the complete file in LDcad: Skærmbillede 2016-05-06 21.29.12 by Madsen's Technic Workshop, on Flickr but here's what it looks like when opening the file in Lpub: Skærmbillede 2016-05-04 20.13.45 by Madsen's Technic Workshop, on Flickr only LDcad and LDview is loading the complete file with no errors, MLcad is crashing and Lpub is only loading the half. I simply have no clue why it is doing this, so I asking you guys, anyone knows what I'm doing wrong all files I been using for my build is at this link -
Hello, could someone help me identify the wheels / tires used in this MOC? Thanks!
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Hello. I have around 16 used shock absorbers that I purchased from BrickLink, all used. When they arrived, I cleaned them thoroughly with a Clorox Wipe. I spent about 1 minute wiping each one. Can the bleach in the Clorox Wipe rust the metal spring? Is there anything I should do to prevent rust? Thank you.
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Hello all, I don't normally post here but I recently bought a Nexo Knights set number 70312, Lance's Mecha horse. It came with the tractor beam shield which I have upgraded four times. I got three free shields in the game, but I think I would benefit from having more. So my question is, what shields should I buy off of bricklink; are there any really good shields which are worth buying or any really awful ones that would just be a waste of money? Thanks a lot, Jim
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Hi, I have recently started a tracked vehicle project. I have made a few other topics about it, building it etc. I was wondering if anyone has made a vehicle then turned around and made it articulated. (Especially tracked) I also need tips on how to do this. Thanks
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The Title should pretty much tell everything, but heres a short summary: Today I wanted to buy some unique pieces from Bricks and Pieces. Manly Star Wars pieces like Sabine's Helmet. I made my order and got an E-Mail shortly after which said: "We offer a free service to replace LEGO® bricks that were missing or faulty in a new set. After reviewing your account history and parts requests you’ve made over time, we’ve decided to no longer offer this service to you. As a result, we’ve cancelled your order. Any future orders will also be cancelled. You can still buy LEGO bricks and sets elsewhere, but orders placed through LEGO.com, for both Shop and replacement parts, online or over the phone will be automatically cancelled from this point on." I know they assume you abuse the system if you order too much, and I admit ordering some pieces 2 years prior (I was really nitpicky back then about slightly misplaced printings, but anymore thank god). But the point is, I wanted to BUY the pieces. Not get them for free. I entered my credit card informations and they still cancelled it. Why feels like a giant "Screw you" to me. I wouldn't mind if it was an order about missing bricks, but no, I just wanted to buy them and they still treat my like this. Reading this sounds like im ranting really hard, but it isn't really, since they have a reason to be suspicious to me. But what actually unsettles me the most is that they told me that ALL Orders from the Online Store will get cancelled. Every.Single.One. I tried to contact them once because I really had a broken piece to be replaced, but they ignored my E-Mail. Edit: Sorry for the late answer, but I finally asked them about this issue per phone. It did NOT get solved. The woman I talked to explained me that the decision came from a person on an higher position than her and she couldn't do anything about it to change it. Well, now I feel like I just got a giant middle finger shuffed in my face... So I don't really know what to do know. I think a phone call would come in mind, but let me hear what you say about this messy situation.
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Over the past year I have been working on a custom millennium falcon based off the 2004 set. I started out with an LDD file uploaded by a flickr user by the name of Flynn2000 After heavily editing a lot of the interior details and adding my own special touches like a new Escape Pod and landing gear. I decided to post it here as I have been having trouble finding a way to connect my landing gear design to the actual ship itself. Some cool renders of the ship below along with a download to the file. If any of you could think of a way to attach the landing gear I would love to read them!
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So, I've recently updated my original LEGO Transformer (his name is Warhawk) and I'm happy with it, except for the head (at first it was Hero Factory Surge's head, now it's Bulk's head), which doesn't look like the head that I imagined (something akin to Optimus Prime or Soundwave). While I initially thought that the Kre-O Transformer helmets would be too big to fit, it turns out they are a well fit, so I could actually use a Kre-O fig head with a red visor (like Singe's, which I happen to own) in combination with Kre-O Optimus Prime's helmet to give the head I want him to have... but there's a problem (and I'm not talking about the issue of robbing the little adorable Kre-O Optimus of his iconic helmet): The colors don't match! The blue of my Kre-O Optimus Prime is visibly darker than the regular blue (I believe the proper name of it is "bright blue"?), so the head stands out even more than it really should. However, I do know that Hasbro at least uses in some sets also a blue that is much closer (if not outright the same) as good old LEGO blue, as the Kre-O Bluestreak I own is bright blue. Looking at the articles on TFWiki.net, it looks like that Optimus and Soundwave were produced and released in various colorations, but it's hard to determine if any of these redecoes are in the blue that I need. After all this long explanation, it's time for me to ask my actual questions: 1) Did Hasbro ever produce the Optimus Prime (or Soundwave) helmet in a shade of blue that is identical to the regular LEGO blue? 2) If not, are there any similiar helmets in the Kre-O Transformer Line in the fitting coloration? It must have a faceplate though. 3) In either case, what's the best way to aquire Kre-O Parts? Especially if I want to make sure the parts are in excellent condition, preferably new? I hope you can help me with this rather specific request. If all else fails, I can always go for the Jango Fett helmet, but still, getting a proper Transformer helmet would be great in that case.
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Hey, ya'll. I'm trying view a How-to for a custom head for a Bionicle MOC I'm working on, but I can't because I can't view anything related to LDD because I'm using a Chromebook. I would really appreciate it if someone that can use LDD to make a PDF or something, so that I can get said instructions. Here's the link: http://sta.sh/02854h8z7bkj Thanks!
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Since I'm a new Technic builder I'm not so good with steering, anyone have any instructions for axles I could use? Thanks! -
Alright, so I first want to explain this project that I have been dreaming about doing. The summer of 2013 I started to build a table to be specifically used for a lego moc. It was to be around 3 feet by five feet and feature an underground section. Well, after tearing it apart and rebuilding it several times, I finally finished in the summer of '14. Now I have moved out and have my own super tiny room and have the ability to devote some time to actually building the moc. The moc is going to be a hybrid. The majority of the buildings and scenery will be made of lego, while all the figures (except maybe a few statues) and 90% of the vehicles use will be mega bloks, specifically the Halo, Assassin's Creed and Call of Duty brands. Now this will be classified as a Halo Moc, while some weapons will be from custom lego weapons shops and painted by me. Now I do realize that some people like to keep mega bloks and lego separate, which I used to believe in. While I prefer the Mega bloks articulated figures, I still massively respect the Lego figure. What I need hep with is actually 100% to do with lego. I ave never built a lego train. Never even held a train track in my hand. Fear, mostly, because there seems to be so much to learn. Well, I ran into a slight dilemma. I wanted to make a new halo vehicle, because halo is limited in it's vehicle, and I wanted to add my own flare to this hybrid moc. Six months of looking at vehicles that looked like pre-existing halo ones and still nothing. Then out of no where, I got inspired. I was watching a review of a train set on youtube, when this piece caught my eye. And thus the idea for a halo train was born. Now the train itself I do not necessarily need help with. It's the tracks. And the engine. You see, I want the train to act as a supply/weapons platform, but I want it to wrap around my room, which has three HUGE problems. My room I live is essentially a bedroom where I share a bathroom with one guy and a kitchen with two others including him. So I have three doors to deal with. So then I thought, I can have the track wrap around the ceiling. Sounds cool, except that I have no idea how to make a train even run on flat surfaces. I don't even know how the darn things work. I have seen train tracks that were used to enable a train to go from ground level to another height, except that those systems tend to be larger than my table. I really only want the track to cross the table once, maybe twice. My idea is to have a train that can run in two direcetions, so that I don't have to create a loop. The wall that I intend to use to get a rail-ramp, for lack of a better word, gives me a good 6-7 feet to go from 3 feet of the ground to about seven feet off the ground. If anyone can help me, I would appreciate it. What I need advice on: 1) I need the smallest engine possible, but with enough power to move uphill and pull one of the previous mentioned pieces 2) What is a good angle to use for the incline that won't let the train shoot back down uncontrollably on its way up OR on it's way back down. 3) How do I make a train go two directions? What kind of engine would allow me to control it? I was thinking Infrared, so I can just stop it at any given time 4) How to stop the train without damaging either it OR any lego pieces Any advice anyone can give me will help. I literally have no idea what I am doing when it comes to lego trains. Thank you!
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After seeing a lot of people make customs minifigs, I though I should start giving it a try. So for my first minifig I will make a custom Blade. The one piece I need help finding is a torso for Blade, any ideas?
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Looking at several real world cranes, I have noticed that virtually all of them have hooks that can rotate independently of the pulleys, as in the pulley piece that is connected to the lifting cable stays in place, while the hook that the load is attached to can rotate. I'm thinking that a possible reason for this is to allow the road to be rotated while it is suspended from the crane, or possibly to prevent the hoist line from twisting if the load catches the wind. Now, do you guys think that this feature is needed for Lego cranes, or is it just a a cool add on for the model? I have made a model with a hook that rotates, and it is not very helpful, as the hoist lines twist long before the hook moves. In addition, my rotating hook uses a small turntable in order to do that, which has the potential to come apart if the load were large enough. The only other way that I can think of to make a hook rotate is with some threaded axles, but those could break under load. So, what do you guys think? Required feature, or nice add on? -
Hi guys. As you can tell from the title I need to repair a technic figure. I have this guy: And most unfortunately someone small used him a little like a doll and his left arm snapped off at the shoulder joint. Now, what happened is the pin/peg snapped clean at the point it met the arm, so the entirety of it is inside the torso with a tiny dimple left on the arm itself. I noticed the peg was hollow and the arm did have a dimple, so running a small risk of limited movement I attempted my own repair. Using a carefully trimmed piece of the sprue two minifig keys come on I dipped the one end of this little pin/rod into Revell Model Glue and popped it into the hole of the pin left in the shoulder. So far, so good. The glue cured and the new repair pin remained in place with normal handling. Then I trimmed it to the best length to attach the arm using the remains of the original peg. Dabbed glue into the dimple of the broken peg on the arm, placed it onto the pin and with a little masking tape to hold it in place, left the glue to cure. First try, the arm came away with the tape. Second try, the arm fell off once the tape was gone. It is leaving a nice mass of glue on the tip of the pin (formed to the shape of the dimple on the arm...) I am guessing it is either not the best adhesive to use in this situation, the plastics won't bond or that there just isn't enough of the original peg left on the arm to join it right. What would you suggest? I could get a different glue (I am on the hunt for some as a few action figures got mashed too. Poor Sam Flynn is now headless and my Big Duo is Last Appearance accurate!) or is it better to get the leftover peg out of the torso and put a new arm in?
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Hello there Last Saturday I was in the LEGO in Munich, Germany and bought the DC sets 76025 Green lantern vs. Sinestro and 76040 Brainiac Attack. After building the sets I noticed how 3 of my Figures had their Printings wrong ( Green Lanterns Body front was printed to much to the right, same for Martian Manhunter and Supergirl's back was also printed to much to the right). So I went to the official LEGO website and asked the customer Service to replace those Pieces. They usually take 1 or 2 days to sent me an E-Mail where I have to enter Code on the back of the instruction Book, but this E-Mail never came. I sent the E-Mail on Monday, I got the Confirmation that they have gotten the E-Mail, but thats it. I think that LEGO is ignoring my Part Request because I am really kinky about misprinted Parts, especially on licensed Minifigures, so that I had asked them quite often for new Parts last year ( about 5 times). Do you think I should call the customer service, or just wait for an answer? Greetings, Dosenbrot.
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